There is a special tool or way to release the throw out bearing from the pressure plate, or the fingers of the release arm from the throw out bearing. what is the trick?
u pry and it pulls apart,only to return. how is this possible.
if you are talking about getting the bearing away from the clutch arm there is usually a clip of a type that holds the bearing to the arm.if you are talking about getting the bearing away from the clutch arm there is usually a clip of a type that holds the bearing to the arm.
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You need to remove the external release lever from the release fork shaft. this allows the fork to rotate out of the throwout bearing while you are seperating the tranny from the engine
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the spring that you mention .I take it as the pressure or diaphragm spring that presses the pressure plate onto the clutch plate to jam it on the flywheel
It is a spring plate with numerous fingers running against the throw out bearing
They seldom break and for you to have such problems indicates that the clutch action release is excessive thereby bending the spring plate inside out
That can be from the throw out arm in the wrong place and making excessive travel or incorrect slave cylinder position pushing the arm too far out
for this type of pressure plate, the clutch action at the pressure plate requires a movement of around 1/4 " of the pressure plate to release the clutch plate for gear selection
I suspect that your movement will be exceeding 3/4" thereby over loading the spring action
That is the area I would be investigating
Maybe the kit you have installed is not compatible with the system
indications are a failing throw out bearing for the clutch or clutch plate getting worn out AS the clutch plate lining wears , the pressure plate fingers come back closer to the throw out bearing causing it to spin
if you can make an adjustment on the slave cylinder push rod or clutch cable to give the bearing a nit more clearance the noise may not be there as it will not be spinning from the pressure plate fingers
Genewrally speaking you need to remove the gear box. UNdo the bolts holding the clutch pressure plate on the flywheel. . Do this by undoing each bolt a few turns at a time. Remove pressure plate and clutch plate. Clean flywheel face. Remove bearing at center of crankshaft and replace as it will be dry and probably rusty. Fit new clutch plate taking care to observe the correct way the plate is fitted. Normally the raised hub section faces away from the flywheel. THis can be checked by pressing the plate against the flywheel and turning it and it it hits the crank bolts you have it in the wrong way round. Fit the pressure plate over the plate and insert the bolts. Some units have 2 or 4 bolts longer than the restand this is to allow the plate to be depressed a fraction to allow the other bolts to screw in. Place a clutch aligning tool through the clutch plate and into the bearing. Evenly retension the pressure plate bolts going alternately across the cover a bit at a time . When retensioned remove the clutch aligning tool. Remove and replace the throw out bearing on the clutch release forks. Ensure that the clutch kit is all new as mixing parts will not work. Refit the gear box. Basically that is the proceedure but to be exact get the manual for your vehicle to cover any extra steps needed for that vehicle.
You should be able to remove a cover or inspection plate at the bottom of the ****** bell housing to inspect and visually see the throw out bearing. It sound like it (the throw out bearing) completely went out or damaged the fingers it rests on to disengage the pressure plate. All clutches are pretty much the same. Flywheel bolts to the rear of the crankshaft with a pilot bearing in the center for the input shaft. The clutch disk is sandwiched between the flywheel and retained in place by the pressure plate. Followed by the throw out bearing which is operated by the release fork. You could have a bad slave cylinder, but that would not be the source for the squealing you hear. Sounds like it's time to replace the clutch assembly.
Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly,
Your clutch release bearing (throw out bearing) has failed. The transmission has to be unmounted from the engine to change this bearing. (Just like a clutch job!) Being this is a 1985 vehicle you should inspect the clutch plate and the pressure plate for wear. The fingers on the pressure plate should be quite worn if the throw out bearing is doing as you stated in your post. I.e rubbing sound and high pitched squeel. Inspection of the clutch plate consists of making sure the rivets are still not even with the friction pad surfaces. Don't forget to also inspect the engine flywheel for abnormal wear while your working in this area.
Things you might need.... U joints
Transmission rear seal
Clutch Plate
Pressure Plate
Given that you said you an depress the clutch and it goes away, you are dealing with a throw out bearing in the area between the engine and transmission. This bearing is responsible for pressing against the pressure plate fingers and release pressure against the friction disc(your clutch, put quite simply). Your best bet is to replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate and pilot shaft bushing. They are all in the same area. If you wish to tackle this on your own, let me know and I will see if I have the Porsche shop manual to walk you through it. Please let me know.
The first thing to do is to have the flywheel re-surfaced because a warped flywheel will cause the clutch to chatter or shudder when you let up the clutch pedal, and also be certain that the pilot bearing is replaced, it can be difficult to remove the pilot bearing from the end of the crankshaft and you will most likely need to obtain a good pilot bearing puller to remove it.
Clean the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block while the flywheel is being re-surfaced, and be sure that all of the old clutch material and dust has been cleaned from the bell-housing and the rear of the engine block, and contamination from an old clutch disk will lead to early clutch failure.
After the flywheel has been installed and torqued down, then you will need to mount the clutch disk and the pressure-plate assembly together onto the flywheel, and be sure that the clutch disk is facing the right way (usually the spring hub will go towards the pressure-plate assembly), and then start to install the pressure-plate assembly bolts but only hand tighten them for now. After the bolts have been started then use the clutch disk alignment tool that should have come with the clutch kit to align the clutch disk with the pilot bearing, and when you have it aligned so that the alignment tool easily slips through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, then tighten down the bolts to the pressure-plate assembly one turn at a time in a criss-cross pattern until the pressure-plate assembly is flush with the flywheel and then you can torque down the pressure-plate assembly bolts. This is a critical step and the better aligned that you get the disk and pilot bearing, and the easier it is to remove and replace the alignment tool, the easier it will be to install the transmission, and the transmission input shaft should slip smoothly through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing and not have any difficulties mounting up to the engine, and if the transmission hangs up when you are installing it and and the transmission input shaft does not go straight in through the clutch disk and into the pilot bearing, it can damage the clutch hub and the clutch will chatter or shudder when you let the clutch pedal up, and it will shorten the life of the clutch.
After the clutch has been aligned then install the throw-out/release bearing onto the transmission input shaft collar and the throw-out/release bearing fork, and use a lithium based grease on the pivot points of the throw-out/release bearing fork and where the fork contacts the throw-out/release bearing, and if it did not come greased, then lightly grease the inside of the throw-out/release bearing with a lithium based grease and do not over do it on the grease, you want just enough grease to keep the throw-out bearing and the input shaft collar lubricated but still have a smooth operation to it, and you do not want to damage the clutch from oil or grease contamination as this will cause the new clutch disk to slip.
The transmission can now be installed into the vehicle and be careful not to hang the transmission input shaft on the clutch disk or the clutch disk will be damaged. I hope that this information will help you to replace that clutch with a proper quality repair that you will get the most out of.
If your clutch won't release properly, it will continue to turn the
input shaft. This can cause grinding, or completely prevent your car
from going into gear. Some common reasons a clutch may stick are:
Broken or stretched clutch cable - The cable
needs the right amount of tension to push and pull effectively.
Leaky or defective slave and/or master clutch cylinders
- Leaks keep the cylinders from building the necessary amount of
pressure.
Air in the hydraulic line - Air affects the
hydraulics by taking up space the fluid needs to build pressure.
Misadjusted linkage - When your foot hits the
pedal, the linkage transmits the wrong amount of force.
Mismatched clutch components - Not all
aftermarket parts work with your clutch.
Another problem associated with clutches is a worn throw-out bearing,
sometimes called a clutch release bearing. This bearing
applies force to the fingers of the spinning pressure plate to release
the clutch. If you hear a rumbling sound when the clutch engages, you
might have a problem with the throw-out.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the transaxle.
Gradually loosen the clutch pressure plate bolts, in a crisscross pattern. Support the pressure plate and remove the bolts. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
Inspect the pilot bearing. If it is worn or damaged and does not turn easily by hand, remove it using a puller/slide hammer.
Check the flywheel surface for scoring, cracks or burning and machine or replace, as necessary.
Install a flywheel holder to keep the flywheel from turning. Loosen the flywheel bolts evenly and gradually in a crisscross pattern. Remove the flywheel.
Inspect the clutch release bearing for wear. Replace it if it sticks or does not turn easily.
Inspect the release fork for wear or damage and replace as necessary.
To install:
Structural view of the hydraulic clutch system
Exploded view of the clutch assembly Click to Enlarge
Flywheel tightening sequence
Pressure plate tightening sequence
Lubricate the release fork fingers and pivot with molybdenum grease and install in the release fork boot.
Install the clutch release bearing on the release fork.
Install a new pilot bearing in the flywheel, if removed.
Be sure the flywheel mounting surface and the crankshaft or eccentric shaft mounting surfaces are clean. Remove any old sealant from the flywheel bolt hole threads and the flywheel bolts.
Install the flywheel.
Apply sealant to the flywheel bolt threads and install them hand-tight. Install the flywheel holding tool. Tighten the bolts, in a crisscross pattern, to 71–76 ft. lbs. (96–103 Nm).
Apply a small amount of molybdenum grease to the clutch disc splines and install the clutch disc on the flywheel, spring side toward the transaxle. Install a suitable alignment tool in the pilot bearing to position the clutch disc.
Install the clutch pressure plate, aligning the dowel holes with the flywheel dowels.
Install the pressure plate bolts and gradually tighten, in a crisscross pattern to 20 ft. lbs. (26 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
Structural view of the hydraulic clutch system
Exploded view of the clutch assembly
Flywheel tightening sequence
Pressure plate tightening sequence
bleed it or if is mechanical adjust it.
do u have a factory manual?
if you are talking about getting the bearing away from the clutch arm there is usually a clip of a type that holds the bearing to the arm.
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