I have a 1994 voyager and just changed the front calipers.I noticed that the left side seems a bit sticky. It dose not have abs, so what else could it be?
It appears that all the break lines and master cylinder a fairly new.
What I mean, is that the left new caliper dose not release as it should. This also was happening with the old one. There is a fairly new master cylinder and break lines on it and the car hasn't been driven in a year. Could it be a flex hose problem, or is the system corrupt with the wrong break fluid?What I mean, is that the left new caliper dose not release as it should. This also was happening with the old one. There is a fairly new master cylinder and break lines on it and the car hasn't been driven in a year. Could it be a flex hose problem, or is the system corrupt with the wrong break fluid?
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Does the vehicle pull to the side that smokes? A smoking brake is usually an indication of a sticky/seized caliper or sticky/seized caliper slide bracket. Have the brakes inspected before premature wear/damage results
ABS sensor has nothing to do with the restriction of the brake oil supply. It merely tells the ECU whether the wheel is spinning or stopped at all when the car is moving.
Check:
- Pull up the ABS diagnostic error codes.
- Brake hose attached to the caliper for swollen or clogged.
- Check brake pipe from the skid control ECU to front wheel.
- Check the caliper assembly.
I have a 1994 ford tempo gl. The left front brake caliper dose not seem to release, it holds pressure all the time. Could this be a master brake cylinder problem.
These brakes are a pretty easy fix. For the job pick up some cheap gloves, you'll need general hand tools, proper Brake Fluid (DOT 3?)some brake cleaner, a large C-clamp, new pads (front) and I'd replace the front rotors too. Place the van on jack stands, remove front tires, using some brake cleaner spray down the calipers, pay special attention to the boot around the piston to clean well (if heavy dirt is left on it, it can make for sticky caliper(s).) Place the C-Clamp ove the calliper to compressit (DO NOT TIGHTEN ON YET!) Loosen the bleeder screw on the back of the caliper and place a small tube on it, now slowly tighten on the C-clamp, this will cause the piston to gently push back in to the caliper, you'll note old fluid coming from the bleed screw. Once fully driven back (don't over tighten!) remove the C-clamp and caliper and clean up with spray. Remove and replace the rotor, install new pads (lubricate as needed) and reinstall the caliper. Repeat to other side; once done bleed brake system and replace with new brake fluid. Be carefull with brake fluid and with brake cleaner, nasty stuff!
this sounds like the rubber flexy hose is breaking up and blocking the line, see if you get fliud flow if you release the hose at the caliper, if it is not gushing out when you press the pedal then loosen the body end and try again, if it then flows well change the flexy pipe (or both to be safe) then re bleed and road test
The piston is binding in the wheel brake cylinder, perhaps a bit of rust in the cylinder.
Inspect it, replace wheel brake piston and maybe the cylinder if you can't make it "smooth".
Make sure bleeder fittings are on the top side of the front caliper,have seen them insatlled wrong left to right before & cause this problem.Also if you have ABS the abs modulator has to be bled also,there are bleeders on the unit.hope this helps
Sounds like need new Calipers for front too. Maybe a new master cylinder may be need too. Sound like to Calipers or master cylinder are now letting to brake fluid go back to the master cylinder.
you think your caliper just froze up? those arnt very expensive usually, i would just take off the caliper and see how hard it is to press in i was looking at the wiring diagram for your vehical there is a front left front right and a rear wheel speed sensor. it looks like there is no way the abs could lock up one rear, and besides the abs is to stop the wheels from locking up not to actually lock them up, anyways im almost positive its either someone left your brake on and didnt notice which wouldnot explain only one wheel locking up, your brake cable is unajusted on that side which would make it do this all the time, or that your caliper was just freezing up on that side which is probably what it was, you should be able to notice the drag, i would replace caliper and call it a day. make sure your caliper slides are not locked up also, that would cause only one side of your pad to contact that roter and overheat it quicker, so these last two options are the only plausible solutions i can come up with, if you take that caliper off, try to move the slides that the piston have that the bolts go through to the caliper mounts. make sure those are free floating first, then i would think of replacing the caliper if it goes in unsmoothly. good luck brother any other problems or need any other help give me a shout, take care
explain "a bit sticky"
What I mean, is that the left new caliper dose not release as it should. This also was happening with the old one. There is a fairly new master cylinder and break lines on it and the car hasn't been driven in a year. Could it be a flex hose problem, or is the system corrupt with the wrong break fluid?
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