Brakes (all rotors, rear calipers, and all pads) have been changed, and the system bled several times. The master cylinder has been changed out (aftermarket ACDelco). Parking brake switch seems to be fine. Unplugging reservoir fluid level sensor has no effect. Since there is no proportioning valve on the 99-and up models, what measures fluid pressure in the brake lines in a 2002 GC? And what could possibly be triggering the brake warning light, when no leaks are present? Brakes feel and work fine.
Omg what country, and which lamp there is not just one lamp.
"brake indicator used for vehicles manufactured
for the United States consists of the word
"BRAKE" imprinted on a red lens"
and
The Rest-Of-World
(ROW) market version of this indicator has two
International Control and Display Symbol icons
imprinted on the red lens; one is the icon for "Brake
Failure", and the other is the icon for "Parking
Brake".
why not read the manual first, or is guessing how it works fun?
posted it like 300 times now.
again, on one RED BRAKE warning lamp. (not ABS)
WJ jeep 99-04
see brakes chapter 3 covers it all.
the diffr pressure valve sets the red brake light on
and more
"The parking brake switch is in circuit with the red
warning lamp in the dash. The switch will cause the
lamp to illuminate only when the parking brakes are
applied. If the lamp remains on after parking brake
release, the switch or wires are faulty.
If the red lamp comes on a fault has occurred in
the front or rear brake hydraulic system.
If the red warning lamp and yellow warning lamp
come on, the electronic brake distribution may be at
fault.
In most cases, the actual cause of an improperly
functioning parking brake (too loose/too tight/won't
hold), can be traced to a parking brake component."
so unplug it to see that its not CAUSE.
parting shot, i make sure all red lamp devices are unplugged
1 by 1 to know which one is tripping, the lamp.
then after bleeded, I step on the brake pedal real hard.
100lbs or more
and this will centralize the DIFF VALVE NOW>
if not the brakes have air in the system.
or the DIFF VALVE is seized.
they can stick so, learn the MONSTER FOOT brake test./
use max brake pedal pressure now.
there is a parking lamp too. that glows and will warn of low fluid levels.
are you working on the car with no scan tool?
is yes, then you miss out on all those brake error DTCs
dont you... anI have a 2002 Grand Cherokee, and the brake warnin - 26345254-derva1l3mlhtf5qz32ooabpo-5-3.jpg"/uploads/images/26345254-derva1l3mlhtf5qz32ooabpo-5-3.jpg" alt="26345254-derva1l3mlhtf5qz32ooabpo-5-3.jpg" class="h_mi" />
forgot the link to the free book
posted over 100 times this. all aBove is from here, quotes.
100%free, and !100 real jeep book. not clone junk books.
http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge...
lamp one glows, for 4 reason besides, key on self test.
1: ABS FAILURE
2: LEVELS.
3: DIFF VALVE
4: HAND BRAKE.
the head is just a digital display
and the PCM sees errors it sends command to the cluster, via a network
and the cluster does what its told it glows the lamp.
if you scan the PCM , you will see whats wrong. you didnt.
as most here do not do.
and chase tails..
Well, I did have it scanned by two mechanics, who were unable to pull any codes. I also could not pull any codes, but that's not surprising because my scan tool is cheap. Also, my 2002 doesn't have a combination valve attached to the master cylinder. I'm assuming that the ABS module handles that function, because the lines go directly into the ABS system from the master cylinder. So I'm not sure that mashing on the brakes will work in this case, but there may not be much harm in trying.
There's a recall on the vehicle for a separate issue, so I guess I'll just need to have the dealer diagnose the brake codes with the proper equipment.
Thanks for the info, though. The link was helpful.
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Low on brake fluid ? Or the ABS sensor is bad !
Wouldn't an ABS sensor fault trigger the separate ABS warning light? And fluid levels are fine.
It may be a vacuum line ! Try You tube for further information !
Okay... Last comment. If the brake booster seems to be airtight and functioning properly (firm pedal in two presses with engine off, softer pedal on start), can there still be a small vacuum leak in the hose? As in, the vacuum works but isn't quite adequate, and is tripping some sensor?
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