Question about 1996 Ford Contour

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My 96 ford contour will turn over but will not start without a jump. O'Reillys said the alternator is good. All the fuses are good. What could be the issue? Please help

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  • 229 Answers

Does the battery have a full charge, battery connections all clean and tight?
With engine cranking, the vehicle systems get battery voltage. With engine running, it gets alternator voltage, there can be several volt difference.
With everything off use digital multimeter across battery posts, the generic spec for a full charge is 12.6 volts. Leave the leads on the battery posts, have a helper crank it, the voltage shouldn't drop below 9.6 volts, that is a generic spec.
The next test, w/o jumpers, have a helper crank it while you check spark at the plugs--check proper fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse. Any applicable trouble codes?

Posted on Oct 09, 2016

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 161 Answers

SOURCE: honda civic wont start

You might have to change the spark plugs or at least have them cleaned.

Posted on Jul 12, 2008

Anonymous

SOURCE: 1998 ford contour start up, alternator? battery?

Sounds to me like you drained your donor battery to the point where you can't jumpstart your car anymore. If you jump a car and it runs for a little bit but then dies that means your alternator is toast. If it was a bad ground, you would see sparks or a fire... Your battery only starts the car, once it is running your alternator supplies the electrical system and charges your battery back up. If you need more in depth help in replacing the alternator go to www.contour.org and get on the forums.

Posted on Oct 27, 2008

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1998 ford contour fuse diagram

dont have an actual diagram but if you check at mastercraft.com they have a copy of the owners manual online and its free to access.

Posted on Dec 26, 2008

tducksoup1

thomas perusi

  • 7 Answers

SOURCE: 96 ford contour, temp gauge not working

first and foremost check the fuse box. there is a fuse for guages. The temp sensor is somewhere on the manifold and it will have a hard wire with probably a spring around it for protections that runs from the engine to the instrument cluster. You can remove the temp sensor and use a heat gun or propain heat and see if you get any kind of response. I suspect if all your other gauges are working the fuse is good. Most temp sensors do not use power only for lighting of the gauge, It just sends a resistance change to the water temp bulb and it moves the gauge. Is it a seperate gauge or in your insturment cluster? could be simple as a crushed line or the sensor went bad. It is normally self contained. I suspect it is a gauge and not a dummy light? if you can not get the one working in the instrument cluster I suggest going to and autoparts store and replace it which is very easy to do. You can remove the old sensor from the block and reinstall the new on in its place and run the cable back through where the first one was and mount the gauge in another area, It is very important to know the water temp since most computers use this info for setting the correct fuel to air mixture in a closed loop system. That is a diffrent sensor but you need to know the temp yourself to keep from blowing a head gasket or worse which can cause you lots of money to repair, I prefer to mount my own gauge seperate from the cluster, best of luck

Posted on Jan 02, 2009

c17hydro

Greg Bernett

  • 2989 Answers

SOURCE: changing spark plugs on my 96 ford contour

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000–30,000 miles (32,000–48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection, combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems, will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power). When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. If the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.
  3. Remove the spark plug cover(s), if equipped.
  4. On the 2.5L engine remove the ignition coil assembly from the rear valve cover. See Section 2 for the procedure. Remove the water pump pulley cover.
  5. Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
  6. Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a vacuum to clean the area. NOTE: Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.
  7. Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore. WARNING
    Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.
  8. Remove each plug and inspect the plug even if you are replacing them with new ones. An inspection can reveal a great deal of information on the overall condition of an engine. Use the condition charts in this section as a guide. To install:
  9. Inspect the spark plug boot for tears or damage. If a damaged boot is found, the spark plug wire must be replaced.
  10. Using a wire feeler gauge, check and adjust the spark plug gap. When using a gauge, the proper size should pass between the electrodes with a slight drag. The next larger size should not be able to pass while the next smaller size should pass freely.
  11. Carefully thread the plug into the bore by hand. A handy tool to use to install spark plugs are the flexible rubber installation tools that are available at most auto parts stores, in place of this tool an old plug wire boot or a piece of fuel line long enough to fit to the plug hole is a good alternative. If resistance is felt before the plug is almost completely threaded, back the plug out and begin threading again.
  12. Carefully tighten the spark plug. If the plug you are installing is equipped with a crush washer, seat the plug, then tighten about 1⁄4 turn to crush the washer. If you are installing a tapered seat plug, tighten the plug to specifications provided by the vehicle or plug manufacturer.
  13. Apply a small amount of silicone dielectric compound to the end of the spark plug lead or inside the spark plug boot to prevent sticking, then install the boot to the spark plug and push until it clicks into place. The click may be felt or heard, then gently pull back on the boot to assure proper contact.
  14. On the 2.5L engine, install the coil pack and the water pump pulley.
  15. Install the spark plug cover(s), if removed.
  16. Connect the negative battery cable.

Posted on May 13, 2009

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