Starter fusible link 2006 mazd 6s 3.0 - 2006 Mazda 6 s

More likely your starter went bad. Fusible links is closest to the battery

There is a fusible link in the wire from the starter to back of the alternator .The heavier gage wire . Measure voltage at the wire on back of alternator ,if there is B+ voltage the fusible link isn't blown . The two wires in the connector are from the PCM - engine computer . Do not touch those wires ,you can fry the PCM .Your charging system is computer controlled , if not familiar with this I suggest you take it to someone who is .

I'll guess that what you mean is there is no power to the starter switch. It would help, always, to know what you are working on, but in general, most cars have fusible links to protect major circuits. Yours may have blown a fusible link powering the ignition switch, or if you meant the starter solenoid, perhaps the link to it. If you are unfamiliar with these links, google "fusible links".

There is no "fuse" for the alternator output. It is tied directly to the starter and the battery positive terminal. There MAY be a fusible link in the line between the alternator and the starter, but the diagram I saw does not show one.

If you have battery power to accessories, horn, lights, etc., you may have a clutch or park/neutral safety switch problem. If no power to accessories, etc, you may have a blown fusible link between the battery and the starter solenoid. Just a suggestion.

the only fuse for the starter is not located in the fuse box it is located in the positive wires that go to the starter its called a fusible link and when then amperage of the starter exceeds the fusible link rating the fusible link blows the link is usually located inthe positive wire to the starter and at some point fatter then the wire itself

If your lights horn and stereo work and the starter is not turning the problem could be starter relay , the starter itself or a fusible link. I would start with the fusible link myself.

Fusible Links

The engine compartment wiring harness has several fusible links. The same size wire with a special hypalon insulation must be used when replacing a fusible link.
The links are located in the following areas:

1. A molded splice at the starter solenoid Bat terminal, a 14 gauge red wire.
   
2. A 16 gauge red fusible link at the junction block to protect the unfused wiring of 12 gauge or larger wire. This link stops at the bulkhead connector.
   
3. The alternator warning light and field circuitry is protected by a 20 gauge red wire fusible link used in the battery feed to voltage regular #3 terminal. The link is installed as a molded splice in the circuit at the junction block.
   
4. The ammeter circuit is protected by two 20 gauge fusible links installed as molded splices in the circuit at the junction block and battery to starter circuit.
   

Other things it MIGHT be are the ignition switch, located on top of the steering column:


The other thing it MIGHT be is a faulty ignition cylinder (where your key goes into to start the K10).

Check the wire harness on the steering column also.

if just the starter fusible link is burned then you should have power to and from the switch, and also power before but not after the fusible link itself. if this is the case you may actually have a bad starter. fusible links burn out for a reason. of course, you'd have to replace the burned fusible link as well.

fusible links should be comming off starter, should be 2 or 3 links connected with battery wire on starter