The Brake warning light comes on. I checked the brake fluid level in master cylinder & it was okay. The fluid looked dirty. Please help

For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
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Hello. Welcoem to FIxYa. Please allow us to assist you.

If the Brake warning light is illuminated on your instrument cluster, the cruise control is prevented from being set. This is normal.

The most common reason for the Brake light to be illuminated is low brake fluid in the brake master cylinder. As the brakes wear, the fluid in the master cylinder drops proportionally to make up for the wear on the brakes.

We sould suggest that you check the fluid level in the master cylinder. If it is low, top it off with a new can of brake fluid. Don't use brake fluid that has been opened, use new. Brake fluid that has been sitting in a can will draw moisture, and this moisture, when you put it into your master cylinder, may cause your steel brake parts (that touch the fluid) to rust.

If the fluid level is OK, you may have another issue; one that a trained professional needs to look at.

Thanks for choosing FIxYa for assistance. If you have any questions, please feel free to get back to me.

Brake warning light.

If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is released, then something is amiss.
In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple adjustment should fix the problem.
If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on.

http://autos.yahoo.com/maintain/repairqa/warning_lights/ques010_0.html

Hello,

If the light is on all the time, it could mean you simply forgot to release the
parking (emergency) brake. The brake warning light remains on when the brake is set
as a reminder. If the brake warning light remains on when the parking brake is
released, then something is amiss.

In some cases, the brake warning light may remain on if the switch on the parking
brake pedal or lever is misadjusted. Nothing is wrong with the brakes and a simple
adjustment should fix the problem.

If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes,
or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side
of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously
low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system).
In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked.
Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the
problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning
light will come back on.

Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail!
So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's
wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers,
drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself.
Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.

Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings,
causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the
vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that
have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced.

Hope this helps.

System has a fault and needs troubleshooting.

Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up. Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:--

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

The brake fliud resorvoir may have a sensor on it that is at fault. Also if the brake pads are getting very tin the light will stay on for the brake fluid is low if not filled. Fill the fluid up and see if the light goes off. The sensor if equipt will have two wires for a conection

If the brake warning light comes on when you apply the brakes, or is on continuously, it means that hydraulic pressure has been lost in one side of the brake system or that the fluid level in the master cylinder is dangerously low (due to a leak somewhere in the brake system). In either case, the fluid level in the master cylinder should be checked. Adding brake fluid to the master cylinder reservoir may temporarily solve the problem. But if there's a leak, the new fluid will soon be lost and the warning light will come back on.
Brake fluid leaks are serious because they may cause the brakes to fail! So avoid driving the vehicle until the system can be inspected to determine what's wrong. Leaks can occur in brake hoses, brake lines, disc brake calipers, drum brake wheel cylinders or the master cylinder itself. Wet spots at hose or line connections would indicate a leak that needs to be fixed.
Leaking brake fluid can also contaminate the brake linings, causing them to slip or grab. The uneven braking action that results may cause the vehicle to veer to one side when the brakes are applied. Brake shoes or pads that have been contaminated with brake fluid cannot be dried out and must be replaced.

You have one of two problems.

The most common issue it low brake fluid in the master cylinder. As the brakes wear down, the brake fluid level drops proportionally. On the side of the master cylinder is a sensor, that measures the fluid level. Open the hood and check the level. If is is anywhere close to the "MIN" line, you may have some brakes that need replaced.

The second issue, and it is more rare, is the park brake cable rusting, and hanging up.

Easy way to check either: When the light comes on, open the hood and unplug the wire going to the sensor on the side of the master cylinder. If the light goes out, your fluid level is the issue.

Thnaks for choosing FIxYa for advice!