I am replacing a positive terminal and need to know if the original plastic cap or relay it is really needed. Having trouble with the old bolts

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Raise the front of the car then slide under the driver's side of the car and locate the starter on the engine where it meets the bell housing. Unplug the "S" connector from the terminal on the starter and lay it aside. Remove the nut from the "B" terminal with a wrench, then remove the battery cable from the starter. Locate the mounting bolts and loosen it. Slide the new starter then tighten the bolts.

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There is a positive terminal under a small red plastic cover under the hood, near the firewall on the driver's side. There is a negative post sticking straight out of the firewall near there. Originally would have had a grey or black plastic cover that screws on top of it and looks like a large bolt. Need to unscrew and remove to use as a jump point.

On GM vehicles there is a 13mm or 1/2" hex bolt down at the bottom of the side terminal battery.
Remove this bolt that holds the plastic 'hold down' bracket.

Use an 8mm or 5/16" hex wrench to undo the negative terminal first, then the positive terminal.

Pull out the old battery.

Installation is a reverse of the removal procedure.

A socket wrench set may be required to remove any cross bars for the engine compartment that may get in the way of removing the battery.


Good luck on this repair.

Hummm, seal the bolt threads with teflon tape, I prefer yellow but white works fine also. Be sure to pressure test when you are finished.

Here is the simple steps to change the old steering wheel and install the new one.

Remove the Original Steering Wheel

1.Read instructions that come with the steering wheel, and gather the following tools: screwdriver, pliers and a puller.
2.Point wheels straight ahead.
3.Disconnect battery or pull horn fuse before removing the old wheel. This prevents the horn from shorting out or blowing during installation.
4.Remove the horn mechanism by doing one or more of the following steps: Press down on the horn cap or ring and turn; remove the emblem cap from its snapped-in position by grabbing it and pulling it toward you or prying it loose; or if the horn ring is secured by screws that are concealed in the rear side of the wheel spokes, use a screwdriver to remove the screws and the ring.
5.Remove horn wire or spring-loaded metal plunger from plastic housing by either pulling straight out on the metal plunger or, on most models, by twisting the plastic sleeve to the left and then pulling out. Cut the wire off the plastic sleeve and keep the sleeve for later use.
6.Remove the shaft-nut retainer clip, if it is present, and keep for later use. Remove the shaft nut, which holds the wheel to the shaft.
7.Mark the shaft at the twelve o'clock position so that you will know where to position the top of the new wheel.
8.Insert a conventional puller into the two tapped holes which appear in the hub of the old wheel and pull off the steering shaft.
9.Remove the original wheel.

Installing the New Steering Wheel

1.Place the small tubular metal sleeve down over the steering shaft.
2.Position hub on splined shaft, making certain that the shaft is properly positioned using the mark you made in step 7. You may have to rotate the plastic horn contact tube slightly to align it with the appropriate hole through the hub.
3.Insert plastic sleeve and spring from step 5 without wire into plastic horn housing. If the plastic sleeve extends above the top bolt surface of the custom hub, cut down the sleeve so that it is 1/8-inch below the top of the hub. Remove sleeve.
4.Insert through the plastic sleeve the wire lead that was supplied in the wheel kit. One end will not pass through the sleeve. This bell-shaped end will go into the horn contact housing. Insert the sleeve and wire into the housing and lock into position.
5.Route wire around the hub from the ten o'clock position to about the two o'clock position to properly align wheel. Position post cover and wheel on hub. Make certain that the wire lead passes through the appropriate holes in the two o'clock position. Using the three shoulder bolts provided, fasten the hub, post cover and wheel together, but do not tighten.
6.Check wheel for proper positioning. If correct, reinstall the shaft nut from step 6 and tighten. Reinstall shaft-nut retainer clip. If the retainer does not fit into the groove on the shaft, tighten the nut until it will fit as originally located.
7.Remove shoulder bolts and reinstall them through the retainer ring with the fiber side toward you. Tighten the shoulder bolts with caution - excess torque will result in damage to the hub. The shaft nut, if correctly tightened, will firmly hold the hub and wheel assembly on the shaft.
8.Connect wire lead to the connector on the retainer ring. Position spring on center nut. Align the dimples of the horn cap with reliefs in fiber material and push into the dimples past the fiber. Turn cap left or right until tight.
9.Reconnect battery or replace fuse.

Section 03-06: Starting System 1998 Windstar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 01/22/1999 Starter Motor Removal
WARNING: WHEN SERVICING STARTER MOTOR (11002) OR PERFORMING ANY MAINTENANCE IN THE AREA OF THE STARTER MOTOR , NOTE THE HEAVY GAUGE INPUT LEAD CONNECTED TO THE STARTER SOLENOID (11390) IS HOT AT ALL TIMES. MAKE SURE THE PROTECTIVE CAP IS INSTALLED OVER THE TERMINAL AND IS REPLACED AFTER SERVICE.

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to Section 14-01.
   

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
   

1. Remove the starter solenoid safety cap.
   

1. CAUTION: When disconnecting hardshell connector at S terminal, grasp the plastic shell and pull off. Do not pull on wire. Be careful to pull straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S terminal. If any part of the connection is damaged, replace the damaged components.
   Disconnect starter cable and push-on connector from starter solenoid.
   

1. Remove upper bolt.
   

1. Remove lower bolt and starter motor.
   

Installation

1. Position starter motor to engine and install upper and lower bolts finger-tight.
   

1. Tighten the upper mounting bolt to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft).
   

1. Tighten the lower mounting bolt to 20-27 Nm (15-20 lb-ft).
   

1. Connect starter solenoid connector. Be careful to push straight on and make sure connector locks in position with a notable click or detent.
   

1. Install starter cable nut to starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten to 9-14 Nm (80-123 lb-in).
   

1. Replace the starter solenoid safety cap.
   

1. Lower vehicle to floor.
   

1. Connect battery ground cable.
   

The problem of over-heating could be due to one or all of these defective parts:
(i) thermostat
(ii) radiator
(iii) fan relay
(iv) fan switch
(v) water temperature sensor.
In your case, I suspect that your radiator probably is clogged, so needing replacement.

To Replace the radiator:
a. allow the engine to cool.
b. place a suitable container under the radiator, and drain it out by turning backward the wing-nut under it.
c. open the radiator cap to allow atmospheric air to further push down the coolant.
d. with a piece of pliers, depress the top clamp holding the radiator hose. Do the same for the lower radiator hose.
e. remove from the bottom of the radiator and plug wth suitable bolts, the two transmission fluid rubber lines.
f. with a 10-mm socket and wrench remove the two bolts holding the radiator to the front frame.
g. depress the electrical plug at the bottom of the radiator. Remove its thermo switch at the bottom left hand side of the radiator. (replace with new if changing to new radiator) Also notice two rubber cups at bottom of radiator.
i, installation of the new radiator is reverse of removal. Refill radiator with new coolant.

To replace thermostat:
a. disconnect the negative terminal of the battery.
b. drain the coolant into a container, as
explanied above.
c. remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing on the engine block.
d. remove the two bolts from the thermostat housing. Please note the way it was bolted to the engine. Clean its housing and seating areas.
e. fit a new o-ring to the thermostat, and replace with a new thermostat.
f. tighten its bolts to 14-12-foot pounds.
g. Replace the top and bottom hoses back.
i. refill with new coolant.

To replace the fan relays:
a. open the hood.
b. disconnect the negative battery terminal.
c. locate the meduim-size black plastic box on the driver's side fender. This is where the fan relays are. Look inside the cover of the medium-size plastic box to see the fan relay positions.
d. gently and firmly pull out each fan relay. Replace with new ones as needed.

To replace the water temperature sensor:
a. this is bolted to the top of thermostat housing.
b. unplug it from it location.
c. use a 14-mm deep socket to remove the temperature sensor. Replacement is reverse of removal.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the front of the vehicle and install jackstands beneath the frame. Firmly apply the parking brake and place blocks in back of the rear wheels.

1. Tag and disconnect the wiring at the starter.

WARNING When detaching the hardshell connector at the S-terminal, grasp the plastic shell to pull it off. Do not pull on the wire itself. Ensure to pull the connector straight off to prevent damage to the connector and S-terminal. If any part of the connector is damaged, replace the damaged component.

1. Remove the starter mounting bolts and remove the starter.

To install:

1. Position the starter motor against the engine and install the mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts to 15-19 ft. lbs. (21-27 Nm).
2. Install the starter solenoid connector by pushing it straight on. Ensure that the connector locks in position with a notable click.

Install the starter cable nut to the starter solenoid B-terminal. Tighten the nut to 80-123 inch lbs. (9-14 Nm).

1. Connect any remaining wiring to the starter motor.
2. Lower the front of the vehicle and remove the wheel blocks.
3. Connect the negative battery cable.

RELAY REPLACEMENT

See Figures 7 through 13

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.
2. If necessary, remove the power distribution box cover.

1. Disconnect the positive battery cable from the battery terminal.
2. Remove the nut securing the positive battery cable to the relay.

Fig. Fig. 10: Remove the cable securing nuts ...

1. Remove the positive cable and any other wiring under that cable.

Fig. Fig. 11: ... then remove all of the cables from the relay

1. Label and remove the push-on wires from the front of the relay.
2. Remove the nut and disconnect the cable from the starter side of the relay.

Fig. Fig. 12: Remove the relay-to-fender apron attaching screws ...




Fig. Fig. 13: ... then remove the relay from the fender

1. Remove the relay mounting bolts and remove the relay.

To install:

1. Install the relay and mounting bolts. Tighten the mounting bolts until snug.
2. Attach all wiring to the relay.
3. If equipped, install the power distribution box cover.
4. Connect the positive (+) cable to the battery.
5. Connect the negative (-) cable to the battery.

1. Remove the rubber hood gasket at the base of the windshield along the car-right side by pulling up on it
2. Pull up and remove the triangular plastic shield in the car-right rear corner of the engine compartment
3. Remove the rear bolt on the large diagonal bar holding the fuse box
4. remove the two front bolts on that diagonal bar, and the other nearby car-right bolt holding the front of the plastic shield to the front rail
5. Pull up and right on the large bar and fuse box to position it out of the way to expose the battery
6. remove the bolt and spacer at the rear lower base of the battery
7. first remove the negative battery cable (8mm), then the positive cable
8. pull the battery out
9. swap the thermal cover onto the new battery, remove protective terminal caps (if there), and reverse the procedure to reinstall the new battery. Always install the positive cable before the negative to avoid welding your wrench to the car.

i would say that the starter is done....

what happens when a starter is giving up on you, is it will be a lot harder to turn then it will finally start the car....

what a lot of people don't figure out is when it's harder to turn it takes all the juice from your battery so you think you have a battery problem...

you can have your starter rebuilt but usally it is cheaper to get a new one....

concerning the bolts i think it is a two bolts