Fuse s under hood keeps blowing. It is the inj/coil fuse

It sounds like the starter or starter cylinder is out.

Track the problem:Immo (immo light on the dash,key chip/chip antenna ring on the ignition barrel)Ceck spurkplugs/sparkplugs plugs/sparkplugs spark/wiring/ignition coil/coils.Ceck fuel,fuel delivery ,fuel pump/fuel pump relay.Ceck main fuse/relay under the hood.Ceck fuel lines/fuel filter/fuel in the tank.Hope u deal it,let the people know.

Check all your fuses. The fuse for your fuel pump,. If fuse is ok, Turn key onto the acc position and listen for your fuel pump. You should hear it hum. You also have fuel relays, but I'm still wondering why you are blowing fuses for all that together. May be a bad ground or direct short. Check fuses then get back to me please. and dont forget to rate my solution thanks

The engine turning over & the engine cranking is the same thing,
are you not aware of that

You have a no start condition,failed fuel pump I would think

I owned a 92 for 18.5 years

Yes. First, in the fuse block under the hood check INJ A fuse and INJ B fuse. INJ A fuse is circuit 1039 which feeds the coil. If the fuse is OK, replace the coil electrical connector. I stock 2 of these at my dealership because they are needed quite often.
FYI P1351 is an ignition coil control circuit DTC.

change crank sensor? if so replace control module (ignition module)

verify condition by spraying some starter fuel in it.it should start and die if its a fuel problem.
if it still does nothing start checking any and all fuses.if all the fuses are good take out a spark plug and verify no spark.
if no spark check the ignition module.
it might be able to have it checked at autozone for free.but you will have to remove it.

you need a new starter I just went through this problem had my starter changed and have not blown any fuses in days....oh and by the way getting to the starter was not and easy task.

crank or cam sensors have nothing to do with fuel delivery

Engine Cranks But Will Not Start

For an engine to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine. Compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
Basic Checks:

A. Test Fuses. Test both under hood power distribution center and the fuse panel under dash. This is done with a test light tool. The test light should illuminate on both sides of the fuse, if not the fuse has failed and needs to be replaced.
B. Testing Fuel Pressure Test for proper fuel pressure with a test gauge on the fuel rail, most throttle body injection cars (TBI) are between 13 psi and 17 psi. and most (DPI) direct port inject systems are between 40 psi and 55 psi. If no or little fuel pressure is observed and there is 12 volt power present the fuel pump, the fuel pump needs replacing.
C. Checking Timing Belt Test for compression by removing a spark plug and insert a compression gauge. Crank the engine over about 5 seconds the gauge should read between 125 psi and 165 psi, if no compression is observed remove front engine cover to inspect timing belt or chain. Crank engine to observe cam rotation, if the cam does not rotate the timing belt or chain has failed. (note: if the timing belt drives the water pump it is best to replace the water pump at this time)
D. Test for Injector Pulse Remove injector connector to insert injector test light (node) or volt meter. Observe light flash or gauge pulse while cranking. If light/voltmeter doesn't respond, an ignition distributor/crank angle sensor (CKS) or an ignition module is most likely your problem.
E. Test for Ignition Spark Remove spark plug wire, insert an extra spark plug into end of wire, rest spark plug next to a ground source then crank engine. You should observe a blue spark between the spark plug gap and ground source. If no spark is observed, an ignition coil, ignition rotor or spark plug wires might have failed. (always keep hands away from engine when cranking)