If your battery and alternator are ok, you may well have a discharge- an electrical drain on the system that empties the battery.
Try removing fuses overnight before refitting them in the morning. If the battery is fine and the car starts - you have a discharge somewhere.
Check the alternator output with a multimeter. You should get14volts out of the alternator (I purchase brand new alternator and sometimes there no good), it happens, check the big wire coming out of the alternator, if you dont get at lease 14volts it's no good (it's got to generate more than 12volts).good luck.
SOURCE: Battery won't keep a charge
check the air ride suspension system if that is causing the problem the car maybe trying to lift the rear end and it will cause the battery to lose charge check in the trunk for a shut off switch and see if that helps
SOURCE: 2007 Corolla battery not keeping charge
There is an electrical problem. Get someone to scan the vehicle.
You might have to replace the alternator and the battery.
Sorry
rate this please
SOURCE: My Toyota Corolla S 2005 keeps beeping
Loose wire in ignition key slot, why does the car normally beep, keys left in car, lights on after turning off, etc....check those things first before going to dealership or repair shop.
SOURCE: On my 1998 Toyota Corolla, after it starts and
Check for loose battery terminals. Car will not start without jump because battery is not connected properly. Starter is probably good or car would not start with or without jump. If alternator is bad and not producing current, car would die after running a short while as battery would out of juice and without alternator current the car would die - so probably alternator is good. If connections are all good, get a voltmeter and test the battery voltage - it should be over 12.75 volts. If not, battery is not holding charge.
SOURCE: 1995 toyota corolla new battery wont stay charged.
First, have the new battery tested & fully recharged.
You may find you problem at any point along the way but here is the proper procedure.
Now, you will need a digital voltmeter to really perform this test properly and be prepared to have a blown fuse or two, as you will be testing the system by removing and replacing them.
Install the freshly charged battery, making sure the terminals are clean and well protected with vaseline or grease. Install the Neg (-) connection last when installing the battery, remove it first when taking the batt. out. Check your negative connections.
Before connecting the Neg. cable, take a reading with the voltmeter to see what the current voltage is, it should remain fairly constant with a good strong battery when disconnected well over 12.6 volts.
Connect the Neg cable and connect the multimeter again, you should now see it start to drop, depending on what is draining the battery, fast or slow. If you note this drain is heavy, remove the neg cable again.
Make sure all things are turned off, brake lights are off when pedal isn't being pushed, no interior or trunk lights left on.
Next, start the car, the multimeter voltage reading should increase or hold steady, no drain or the alternator is not charging and could actually be draining the battery. Check belts and wiring harness plug-in.
If you haven't found your problem, make note of the fuse positions and remove them all. Connect the battery Neg cable and test for drain again. If the car isn't draining anymore, install a fuse at a time until you find the one causing the drain of voltage & then you'll have to trouble shoot that system.
There is a tool that fits over the wiring that will indicate current usage without removing the fuses and such, it's available at most parts stores but until you have one this is the way to find the problem. Isolate it.
good luck
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