Can't get Trans up high enough to remove front bolt on left control arm

1-2 Shift Solenoid Valve Replacement ,same for other shift solenoids !
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement . Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness.
Control Valve Body Cover Replacement
Removal Procedure

1. Remove the air inlet duct. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 3.4L.
2. Remove the engine mount struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Left Side and Engine Mount Strut Replacement - Right Side in Engine Mechanical.
3. Remove the shift cable bracket from the transmission.
4. Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
5. Remove the left front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
6. Remove the left engine splash shield. Refer to Engine Splash Shield Replacement in Body Front End.
7. Remove the left tie rod end from the steering knuckle. Refer to Rack and Pinion Outer Tie Rod End Replacement in Power Steering System.

Remove the left wheel speed sensor harness connector (2) and the harness (1) from the lower control arm. Remove the left lower ball joint from the left steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. Remove the left stabilizer . Refer to Fastener Tightening Specifications in Suspension. Reposition and secure the drive axle toward the rear of the vehicle. Remove the trans mount nuts at the frame.
Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear and/or damage to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control which could result in personal injury.
Remove the intermediate shaft (1) from the steering gear (2). Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement in Steering Wheel and Column - Tilt.
Support the left side of the frame with a utility stand. Remove the left side frame bolts. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the powertrain enough to gain access the case side cover bolts.
Support the transmission with a transmission jack. Use the utility stand in order to lower the left side of the frame enough to access the case side cover lower bolts. Position the drain pan under the transaxle. Disconnect the transaxle wiring harness electrical connectors.
Remove the case side cover bolts (56-58). 56 are regular bolts ,58 are studs .
Remove the case side cover pan (53).
If not replacing the side cover, steps 24, 25, 26, and 27 are not required.
Remove the case side cover gasket (54). Remove the case side cover inner gasket (59).
Inspect the case side cover (53) for the following conditions:
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Damaged or porous gasket sealing surfaces

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Damaged or porous casting surfaces

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Damaged or stripped bolt holes

Inspect the case side cover gasket (54) and case side cover inner gasket (59) for damage. The gaskets are reusable if they are NOT damaged. Clean the case side cover gasket surfaces
Install the 1-2 shift solenoid (315A). Connect the transaxle wiring harness. Install the case side cover. Refer to Control Valve Body Cover Replacement .
Important: It is recommended that transmission adaptive pressure (TAP) information be reset.
Resetting the TAP values using a scan tool will erase all learned values in all cells. As a result, The ECM, PCM or TCM will need to relearn TAP values. Transmission performance may be affected as new TAP values are learned.
Reset the TAP values. Refer to Transmission Adaptive Functions .
Good luck , this job is a real pain in the ***

It's located behind the front bumper on the driver's side. You need to disconnect the battery, remove the left front wheel and remove enough of the retainers for the left front wheel well [plastic] shroud, to move the shroud out of the way. This gives you access to the TCM [transmission control module aka transmission computer] Diagram linked below. See

2002 Dodge Grand Caravan 3 3 TCM Location diagram Google Search

The ball joints are part of the lower control arm . The control arm is not extremely difficult, but not easy either. First remove the nut on balljoint, then pull the ball joint out of the knuckle, that may take a pry bar, remove front control arm nut and bolt, and two bolts on rear of control arm bushing, reverse process to install. The Ford workshop manual says to replace the control arm nuts and bolts, but I hardly ever do. Have never had a problem. Torque front bolt to 111 lb-ft, and rear to 73 lb-ft. Hope that is good for you.
KIP. Martin, service manager Ford dealership.

SAFELY RAISE SUPPORT VECHICLE ON JACK STANDS. MAKE VECHICLE SITTING ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND. REMOVE FRONT WHEELS , REMOVE HEAT SHIELD, IF EQUIPPED WITH 15 INCH WHEELS, REMOVE BALL JOINT CLAMP NUT, REMOVE SWAY BAR TO CONTROL ARM BOLTS, REMOVE STRUT CLEVIS FROM THE LOWER CONTROL ARM, REMOVE SWAY BAR TO CROSSMEMBER BOLTS LOOSEN THEM AND ROTATE THE SWAY BAR AWAY FROM THE CONTROL ARM, LOWER CONTROL ARM FROM STEERING KNUCKLE. REMOVE BOTH LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS. REMOVE CONTROL ARM. DURING INSTALLATION TORQUE LOWER CONTROL ARM BOLTS 120 FT LBS. CONTROL ARM STEERING KNUCLE TORQUE NUT 70 FT LBS.TORQUE SWAY BAR BOLTS 21 FT LBS.

Most front ends are set up basically the same way.First raise and support your front end and remove the tire.Both the upper and lower should look about the same.If you look at the control arm you will have an upper and lower ball joint and a tie rod end bolted to the steering knuckle.Remove the bolt on the tie rod end and use a ball joint separate to remove the tie rod end.Then remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle with your separator.Depending on which control arm it is if its the upper you will also have to remove the brake hose out of the way to remove the upper control arm.Once that's done you will see 2 bolts that hold the control arms to the frame remove these bolts and your control arm will come off,You might have to pry them a little bit to get them out.You also want to have something handy to block up your steering knuckle until your ready to put it back together.It wouldn't hurt to have a piece of wire just in case you need to tie something in place.And be sure you grease everything with a high pressure grease.

Hello ggagne.
Here is the procedure.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle.
2. Remove the left tire and wheel assembly.
3. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower intermediate steering shaft
4. Loosen all insulator clamp attaching bolts.
5. Place a jack stand under the center of the rear frame cross member.
6. Remove the rear frame-to-body bolts.
7. Lower the rear of the frame just enough to gain access to the stabilizer shaft.
8. Remove the insulator clamp bolts and the clamps from the frame.
9. Remove the insulators from the stabilizer bar.
10. Remove the stabilizer bar links from the control arms.
11. Pull the stabilizer shaft rearward.

Installation

1. Insert the stabilizer shaft to the left side of the vehicle. Important: DO NOT tighten the stabilizer link nut at this time. The weight of the vehicle must be supported by the control arms such that you can obtain the vehicle design trim heights before tightening the link nut.
2. Loosely install the stabilizer shaft link at the control arm.
3. Install the insulators on to the stabilizer bar.
4. Connect the insulator clamps to the frame.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft bracket bolts to 48 Nm (35 ft. lbs.) .
5. Raise the frame into position while you guide the steering shaft onto the gear.
6. Install the new frame-to-body attaching bolts.
7. Remove the jack stand.
8. Install the pinch bolt and tighten.
9. Install the left tire and wheel assembly.
10. Lower the vehicle.
11. Support the weight of the vehicle by the control arms.
12. Tighten the stabilizer link nut.
• Tighten the stabilizer shaft link nut to 23 Nm (17 ft. lbs.)
  

There you are, I hope your job goes well.
Thank you for using FixYa.

KL

LOWER CONTROL ARM

REMOVAL
1) Raise and support vehicle. 3) Remove the steering knuckle.
Remove the bolts fastening the power steering cooler to the front suspension cradle crossmember reinforcement (Fig. 21). 5) Remove the lower control arm rear bushing retainer bolts located on each side of each lower control arm rear bushing. NOTE: The bolts fastening the cradle crossmember reinforcement are of three different thread sizes. Note the location of the various sizes.

6) Remove the bolts attaching the cradle crossmember reinforcement to the front suspension cradle crossmember (Fig. 22). Remove the 2 bolts fastening the reinforcement and rear of cradle crossmember to the body of the vehicle. Remove the reinforcement. 7) Remove the pivot bolt attaching the front bushing of the lower control arm to the front suspension cradle crossmember. 8) Remove the lower control arm.

lower control arm replacement is 0w/coil front springs isnot as tough as it looks. Just have the car high enough th get a floor jack under the control arm and be able to lower it at least six inches. Remove the shock,undo the bolts at the frame and lower the jack untul the spring can be removed. once spring is out, use a picke fork to seperate the lowe ball joint, you nooe have the control arm free. rememver to put the rubber pads on each end of the coil spring on reassembly or a sqeek will develop. new cotter pins an lube ball joints Good luck

I had same problem with my 2006 G6 GTP 3.9 Engine. The front control arm pivot bolt would come out only so far and then hit the passenger side motor mount. I had to loosen the two (2) motor mount nuts from below, and then raise the engine and trans so that the pivot bolt could be moved forward enough to pull clear from the control arm. The control arm drops down, so that the sway bar does not have to be loosened or removed. Expensive part !! (lower control arm with ball joint), just to replace a failed ball joint. By the way, I have the "official" GM ZP/ G6 service manual, and it mentions Nothing about the motor mount interference problem. But, without clearing for that motor mount, that front bolt cannot be removed. (I don't have any experience with the 4 Cylinder G6 model, so can't help you there.)

Hi,
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
JOEVETTE