I have a problem to where I can't get my Dodge Durango aligned....I changed ball joints- tie rods, inner and outer...what is going on??

The tie rod ends should have a taper to them and likewise, the knuckle will have a taper to the hole the tie rod end goes into. As long as the tapers match, you are good. As far as driving without an alignment, if it feels secure when you drive, I wouldn't worry about it. You might get excess tire wear, but if you are only driving for a few days until the parts are in, you should be fine.

you don't . you take it to a front end specialist shop and have the alignment done on calibrated machines

Several things that can cause the alignment to not stay in specifications. Worn parts such as inner or outer tie rods, lower ball joints,or bad struts are the most common failures. Engine mounts that are weak or broken can also effect the alignment.

It may be stuck on defrost cycle due to a bad timer... is there an adjustable switch that you could adjust it should start up... let me know......

The first step in replacing the inner tie rod is to remove the tie rod end. It's basically a three step process, where you start by loosening the jam nut that's used to set the alignment (toe-in or toe-out). That jam nut determines how far up the inner tie rod the tie rod end is fixed. The tie rod end is hollow and threaded, so it can be screwed on or off the inner tie rod. Any procedure for removing a tie rod will start by telling you to count the turns you unscrew the tie rod end, something that I didn't do, and I'll save the explanation for the end:-) After you loosen the jam nut, you remove the cotter pin from the post on the outer tie rod ball joint, and unscrew the nut that holds the ball joint into the tapered fitting on the steering knuckle (video to right). After you pop the outer tie end free of the steering knuckle, you can unscrew the tie rod end. from the inner tie rod, but you need to grip it with something. Inner tie rods normally have some flat surfaces or a splined surface for grabbing with pliers. In this case, I needed two pairs of visegrips and a clamp to hold the visegrips on the inner tie rod from moving in order to get the outer tie rod end broken free and turning easy. That video is below. I happen to own the shop manuals for my Dodge Omni, so I was able to study the procedure for replacing the inner tie rod in detail. I didn't follow it for a couple reason. First, they show my type of power steering rack (Saginaw vs TRW) needs to be removed from the car to change the inner tie rod. That's a lot of extra work, not to mention the fact I buried one of the crossmember bolts in my unibody and flooring repair! So I went with an inner tie rod removal kit from Harbor Freight, manufactured by U.S. General (in Taiwan). The tool is very simple, basically a large steel tub with a snap in opening for a large crows foot insert on one end and a 1/2" socket drive on the other end. The kit is shown in the photo to the lower left (which I need to replace), and a video of the procedure is shown below. The kit wasn't quite right for my car, I had to use an oversized crows foot and the ball joint housing on the inner tie rod was too long, so the flats on the housing were barely held with the crows foot positioned by hand at the very end of the tool. But I got it out.

Could be heat distorted brake rotors,struts or rack n pinion

Tie rods are replaced from ball joint to ball joint, the place for the wrench is to adjust wheel alignment toe in. Ball joints are removed with a special fork, you can sometimes use a hammer to shock the taper and remove them.

Could be ball joints or tie rods check these.

You should be able to just replace the ball joints, should not need to replace the comntrol arms. Hope this helps

make sure if you do it youself you count how many turns it takes for your tierods to come off. it it makes it easy for me that way. also make sure you get a front end aligiment when your done