I can't see it myself even though I have no experience of the car model.
Lots of the vehicle content is Vauxhall/Opel/GM (I think) suitably modified by Saab.
It doesn't sound logical that a dodgy cruise control switch would cause reduced performance. A reduced performance condition is usually caused by something that affects tailpipe emissions or something affecting engine integrity or reliability.
I heard on the grapevine some Vauxhall models have reduced performance simply because they are overdue for some maintenance and once the service indicator has been reset they are fine again. I don't know how true this is. I know of one Vauxhall that flags up an overboost fault and cuts performance when there is an egr valve fault. The true cause could not be discovered by a generic obd scanner and it was only when it was plugged into something with some very expensive dedicated software that it became obvious.
There is no telling what the Saab boffins have done to the management programmes. There are vehicles around that go into reduced performance if the oil level or pressure is low and maybe they thought that might be a good idea.
I suggest you continue your Saab research at the local Saab dealer or on one of the specialised forums, but certainly I suggest you get the code re-read by a dedicated diagnostic machine.
Your in limp mode --have scanned again and look up code and most obd ii sites break down problem and offer repair solutions
Had this on a 9-3 turbo petrol recently, new battery and cleaned the connectors fixed it, not enough spark from the old battery because it was weak
SOURCE: The end popped out of the cruise control switch in
The same thing happened on my 2010 Corolla. I got in one morning and it was just popped out. I guess I must have knocked it by accident.
I called the service dept. since the car is only 6 months old and he said he never heard of it. I checked Totoyta forums and there was no mention of it. I look at my service manual to check which fuses may have been affected, etc. Then:
The fix!
I noticed there was a small Phillips head screw on the back of the cruise control stem on my steering wheel so I unscrewed it and looked at the button up close. I saw that it had 3 copper metal prongs and that one of them was bent backwards almost in half. After I bent it back the way it should go and screwed the back panel back on, it worked just fine.
I guess I must have just hit the stupid thing with my leg and knocked out the button. Then, after pushing the button back in, it must have just bent one of the 3 metal prongs so that it would no longer make an electric circuit.
Anyway, glad I could fix it on my own but it did kinda upset me that Toyota was not going to provide me with a free rental until they figured out what was wrong. Guess I was hoping for too much?
SOURCE: limited performance
This means a fault has occurred and you will need the dealer to scan the computer for the fault codes.
SOURCE: 2005 focus cruise control not working
Sounds like a bad cruise control switch or a bad steering column clock spring.
NOT EXACTLY WHAT YOU ASKED BUT VALUABLE INFO I THINK YOU'LL AGREE?
There are several common cruise control failures on Saabs. The pedal switch failures are the most common problem. What generally occurs is that the pedal switches become mis-adjusted or the ears get broken off the switches causing a no contact condition. Another common problem is that the cruise vacuum hose leading from the vacuum pump under the false bulkhead begins to crack where the vacuum fitting is located at the firewall.. The third most common failure is an intermittent functioning cruise control module. This can often be identified by noting that the cruise will work intermittently (900 & 9000 only).
Another Issue: On turbo models, there is a vacuum controlled switch, located near the pump (red cap) that cuts the signal to the APC solenoid valve when the cruise control is on (switch opens). If the switch is faulty (I broke mine on rough road), it can keep turbo boost at the "basic" level even if the cruise is turned off. The APC boost gauge will only go half-way into the yellow region, and performance will suffer. Either replace the vacuum controlled switch or pull the pigtail connector below the switch and short the ends of the yellow/white wire going to the APC solenoid valve and
proper turbo boost should return. Be aware that if this second fix is employed, your turbo is not limited in boost when in cruise control.
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