ABS LIGHT AND BRAKE LIGHT COMES ON

Search for the brake fluid leak the brake system is a sealed unit if going through fluid like crazy it is leaking somewhere look under at back of tires and along the top of fuel tank for fluid if not noticeable on floor also inspect the brake booster

For some reason these vehicles you need to bleed brakes several times, had same problem, so air hangs up in lines somewhere it apears. When you say brakes sticks, describe it better, locked up, or dragging on rotors?
CERACOAT-NANOTECH.com

This is a standard Vacuum operated brake booster.. If you are having fluid leaking at the rod that attaches the brake pedal to the booster it is a bad Master Cylinder. The Brake fluid will eventually destroy the diaphram in the booster if it hasn't already. . Replace or rebuild the Master Cylinder and wash the brake fluid out of the booster. When the booster goes bad the brake pedal will become very hard to push.. because you will have lost "boost" This is not really a hard job. If fluid id leaking somewhere else.it should be very easy to spot.. Brake fluid looks like oil leaking..

Honda had two brake reservoirs one on the normal brake master cylinder the other on the ABS module. If abs fuse has no power the module has no power. that power comes from the main fuses in underhood fuse box. the abs system is supplement system to normal braking system loss of brake pedal is a air problem or drum brake adjustment problem or a loose wheel bearing pushing the caliper piston back into caliper requiring more fluid to get brake to work causing a low pedal.

brake switch bad, system needs bled, rear brake circuit probably has air in fluid, fluid is no doubt contaminated, nobody addresses this maintainance problem, bleed entire brake system, replace all fluid w/ new. if fluid in the master cylinder is black, seals are bad, some brake systems have a pump as part of master cylinder, these pumps run off fuses , 25amp, etc., check what system you have. is your fluid level correct ? the switch I refer to is @ proportioning valve below master cylinder @ frame, see abs brakes use this valve to prevent skidding, rear brakes must come on first, before front brakes. if valve is not in balance a hard brake pedal occurs, as with low fluid levels. does your brake light come on ? @ dash. have a brake shop bleed your system, if there's a problem they'll find it for you, let them do it, don't wast your time.

The air seeping is a dead giveaway. Your power brakes are now manual brakes, but stiffer. The diaphram in the brake booster has torn and the hissing noise is the engine vacuum escaping (you hear it louder when you depress the pedal right?). Replace the booster and you will be fine. The brake lights probably don't work because you can't push the pedal down far enought to release the switch. Please rate. Thanks.

is the break pedal soft or spongy is so check the level if low then check the lines and wheel cylinders for leaks if no leaks and good brakes and if the truck has anti-lock breaks it is more likly to be a abs sensor but also if no leaks and soft pedal could also be the master cylinder. if hard pedal then check the lines on the booster but that does not make the light come on. hope this helps

A bad brake booster will result in a hard brake pedal, stiff and more effort required to stop the truck. Here are my questions to you, first, you said you replaced the master cylinder, did you bench bleed it before you installed it? If not, there IS still air in it, regardless of how much you bleed the brakes at the wheels. Second, when you bled the brakes, after changing the calipers and master cyl., did you also bleed the proportioning valve? Sometimes air can get trapped in the valve, and its almost impossible to get it out bleeding just the wheels. And lastly, when the brake light comes on, does the abs light also come on with it? Air can also get trapped in the abs control module too.

The brake booster/ naster cylinder is located on the firewall on the drivers side of the vehicle. The master cylinder has a resivour (sp) which has a cap and holds brake fluid. The brake booster is right behind that, the master cylinder is bolted right to the booster. The booster looks like a big circle about 10 to 12 inches round and usually 4 to 6 inches thick. It will have a vaccum hose coming off the booster and going to the intake manifold. The master cylinder with have hard lines coming off it which are brake lines. Hope this helps.

first thing to check is your fluid level. ensure you have enough fluid in your master cylinder. it sounds like you have air in the system. its not really hard to bleed. just get a friend to come over and one of you climb under the car with a bucket and a wrench and some rags. open the bleeder valve on the calipers and have your buddy press the pedal. once oil shoots out straight from the valve close it while its still squirting. if the oil has alot of air in it have your buddy keep pumping to until its not. also make sure you watch your master cylinder level as you are just squirting it all out. do that to all the brakes. as far as it being the master cylinder thats a way later thing. you check the fluid level/air in lines first. as far as the abs. is your abs light on? problem with abs is that it requires specialized work so your best bet is taking it to a shop. but if there isnt air in the lines and there is plenty of fluid then start looking at your brake adjustment. if that is good then possibly the master or slave cylinder