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Question edited for clarity and spelling 'worm' to 'warm'.
Question moved to Model category.
Larry gives the perfect answer as always.
ALL FUSES test good, and IMMO lamp reads good?
no engine told at all and is and engine problem. and has gas or diesel engine, omg not the same at all
warm not WORMs, rats eat wires but not worms, LoL.
this failure is called in tech/engineers world
as HOT SOAK FAILURE, most times spark dead.
that stator always works right
the cars starter motor cranks load and fast we all that robust cranking even does 300 rpm .
so is not a start run problem it is a dead silent starter the only clue to me is the jumper wire, wow.
The PCM controls 3 relays
ASD relay and Starter and fuel pump relays.
so if really did hot wire real starter relay them means the PNRDL is bad.
got automatic transmission.????
got what engine.
\USA car, sorry cant guess cars, drivelines ever.
do you have the security system OEM on this car
and the IP cluster lamp same name is NOT HAPPY as the users manual tell you.
got both keys to Ignition car new provide
or lost one if both try them both?
guess #2 automatic trans
does the starter motor spin in P and N
both must work and P fails long before P
so we try both .
the starter relays is controlled by
1 computers, not just one and the PRNDL switch.
I have the schematic here.
PRNDL shows what gear it is ,
wrong selection is made the PRNLD tells first
the PCM, and if PCM is happy
the PCM click (energizes) the Starter relay
the MTIP module contains the relay and can fail too.
if the IMMO fails , it may not crank. or can cuts spark.
if the starter does work the ASD can cut fuel
if the PCM sees any kinds kinds of bad spark.
spark coils dead, CMP dead CKP dead
to prevent fires. it cuts fuel dead.
so does IMMO./
if you scan the PCM it tells you why it cuts those relays. if you had done that.
Larry Ng Sep 02, 2022
learn to check all fuse first
then scan it
and if the starter motor fails say it will not crank or the starter motor is silent.
Hi if I recall on the trans, it has been about 15 years since I worked for the Honda dealer, But if I remember correctly it sounds like you lost the 2-4 trains pack the housing on the pack would crack over time , causing metal fragments to travel all throughout the trains, if this is the case the only real fix is to have it rebuilt, if it where my car I would look for a used trans, this will coast You a whole lot less, or it maybe time for a new or used car, again I has been quite a while , but this is my best guess good luck I hope this helps.
It's possible there is an electronic fault or a more serious internal mechanical condition causing the transmission to slip as it warms up. After parking for a bit the transmission cools down and often they will work better for a while until they warm up again. To start with I would have the transmission controller checked to see if there are any service codes and then have it test driven by a transmission specialist when the problem is occuring to get his opinion on it. It does sound a lot like a slipping clutch pack from what you describe however which would require the transmission to be removed to fix the problem. Good luck and hope this helps out a bit!
There will be no plug you have to drop the transmission pan. But the real issue may be 1st gear is failing so be prepared for a transmission rebuild before it completly goes out.
We had a 1999 Sebring that would go up through the gears and shift fine until you stopped at a stop sign. Then it would hang in first until you turned it off then back on. Then it would shift normally until you stopped again. Turned out it was a bad speed sensor (not the one for the speedo). Speed sensor is located on the transmission and several years ago was a $20.00 part. I'm not sure if this your problem or not, just thought I'd share this with you.
no. its part of the valve body inside of the transmission. you would need to drain and remove the transmission oil pan and then remove the valve body. Best left to a transmission shop or reputable repair center.
When you first start driving it usually takes atleast 4 miles to warm the transmission to operating temperature. The temp of the motor may say it is warmed up, But, the trans fluid and differential fluid only begins to warm as you drive and the parts are actually working. THe computer has sensors that keep the trans from shifting to OD until the temp is up as not to add stress to the motor until warmed properly. Hope this helps and have a good day.
On this van with this problem you should have it serviced by a flush tool. You can also get BG Trans additive to help this. I would say if you can drop the pan yourself do it change the filter add fluid and the BG additive. If you feel real good about your skills takr the upper trans line off the radiator drop it into a bucket add a funnel to you dipstick tube start the van and pour in the fluid at the same rate it comes out into the bucket. Do this untill you run 12 quarts through. Then stop the van reinstall the trans line. check the fluid level. If ok then install the BG trans additive. Google bgfindashop.com and enter your zip code that will tell you the shops where you can buy the chemical.
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