Why is window regulator stuck?

I could see one window not working from a broken wire inside the door flex , but not both back windows . Back windows are controlled by LF door module . Both back windows have different grounds - LR G200 an RR G201 . Also both rear window switches have different power supply's .RR switch fuse # 18 30 amp . LR is fuse b# 9 40 amp . Both window motors or switche's going out at same time ???? wouldn't think so .

• Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
• Loose, corroded connectors.
• Damaged window regulator control switch.
• Damaged window regulator electric drive.
• Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
• Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
• Glass, Frames and Mechanisms
  
  Inspection and Verification
  
  1. Verify the customer's concern by operating the power windows/heated back window to duplicate the condition.
  1. Inspect to determine if one of the following mechanical or electrical concerns apply:
     
     
     VISUAL INSPECTION CHART Mechanical Electrical
     • Front door power window regulator damaged.
     • Front window run damaged.
     • Front door window glass out of window run.
     • Front door window glass broken.
     • Driver door module circuits open/shorted.
     • Loose, corroded connectors.
     • Damaged window regulator control switch.
     • Damaged window regulator electric drive.
     • Open fuse in fuse junction panel Fuse 39 (10A), 28 (10A), 30 (10A).
     • Open fuse in power distribution box Fuse 9 (40A), 10 (40A), 8 (40A).
     • Scratched grid.
  1. If inspection reveals an obvious concern that is readily serviced, correct the concern before continuing with Inspection and Verification.
  1. If the concern remains after inspection, connect the Rotunda New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent to the data link connector (DLC) located beneath the instrument panel to perform DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test. If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the driver door module, go to Pinpoint Test A . If the NGS responds with NO RESPONSE/NOT EQUIPPED for the lighting control module, go to Pinpoint Test B . If the DATA LINK DIAGNOSTICS test is passed for the drivers door module and lighting control module, retrieve continuous DTCs and execute Self Test Diagnostics for the driver door module and lighting control module to retrieve current DTCs.
  1. If self test is passed and no DTCs are retrieved, go to the Symptom Chart to continue diagnostics.
  1. If DTCs are retrieved, go to the Driver Door Module (DDM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index or Lighting Control Module (LCM) Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Index to continue diagnostics.
  1. If the driver door module cannot be accessed by the NGS, GO to Pinpoint Test A . If the lighting control module cannot be accessed by the NGS, go to Pinpoint Test B .
  Rotunda Service Bay Diagnostic System (SBDS®) 001-00001 may also be used to diagnose this system.
  
  • Power Windows Completely Inoperative
  • Supply open or shorted.
  • Ground open.
  • Window regulator control switch inoperative.
  • Circuits open or shorted.
  • Window regulator electric drive inoperative.
  • Driver door module.
  • PERFORM driver door module self test. Service DTCs. If no DTCs are retrieved, GO to Pinpoint Test C .
  • Single Power Window Inoperative
  • Window regulator electric drive circuits.
  • Window regulator electric drive.
  • Window regulator control switch circuits.
  • Window regulator control switch.
  • Driver door module.
  • GO to Pinpoint Test D .

All the other windows work ? Not a fuse , one fuse powers all the windows . Test for B+ voltage at the switch an the window regulator would be the proper diagnostic procedure . Do you own a volt meter ? know how to read a wiring diagram ? how to do basic automotive electrical testing . The Faint click you hear is probably a relay , which means the GEM - genaric electronic modual is energizing the window relay . The windows are computer controlled .

The GEM will activate the OTD Relay until one of the following conditions is met:

• The LF regulator control switch is pushed to the UP position.
• The LF regulator control switch is released (OFF position) and then moved to the down position (first detent) or one touch down (OTD) position (second detent).
• Seven seconds have elapsed since the OTD was initiated.
• A window regulator electric drive stall condition is detected on the one touch down sense line inputs.

The UP window operation is not controlled by the GEM. The feature is activated when the delayed accessory is active and the LF window regulator control switch is pressed to the UP position. The switch provides delayed accessory power to one side of the motor and ground to the other side through the one touch down relay. The one touch down relay is not active when the LF regulator control switch is in the UP position.
Passenger windows may be raised or lowered using the LF master control switches or the appropriate passenger window switch. Passenger window switches receive power when the delayed accessory relay is active and the LF remote lock-out switch is in the UNLOCK position. When in the LOCK-OUT position, the passenger windows are deactivated.
The GEM controls manual down and auto down window movement with the down window relay. The relay is activated by applying ground directly to one side of the down window relay coil, and deactivated by removing the ground signal.
The delayed accessory relay provides power for the operation of the power windows and the power moon roof. The delayed accessory feature is active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or the ACC position, or when the ignition switch is changed from RUN or ACC to the OFF/LOCK position and the LF and RF doors are closed.
The GEM will deactivate the delayed accessory feature when:

• the LF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
• the RF door is ajar and the ignition switch is in the OFF/LOCK or KEY-OUT position.
• 10 minutes have elapsed since the ignition switch was changed from ACC or RUN to the OFF/LOCK position.

Feature inputs:

• LF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
• RF door open warning switch (open circuit with door closed, grounded with door ajar).
• Ignition switch RUN position (battery potential on both the RUN and RUN/ACC inputs).
• Ignition switch ACC position (battery potential on the RUN/ACC input).
• Ignition switch OFF/LOCK position (absence of battery potential on the RUN, RUN/ACC, and START inputs).

The Trainer 24 Power Window Troubleshooting

Find a wiring diagram an get a DVOM - digital volt ohm meter an do some electrical testing . Videos on you tube on basic automotive electrical testing , how to read a wiring diagram . Then go http://bbbind.com/free_tsb.html free wiring diagrams . What component controls windows an door locks , I know what does , what to see what you think does . The speedometer not working is probably the step motor inside the instrument cluster . New instrument cluster ! Replace the turn signal switch.
The vehicle is equipped with power door locks. Each lock actuator is powered and controlled by the door module mounted in the individual door. The driver door module (DDM) is the master control for the door lock system but the rear integration module (RIM) contains the program that determines when the lock functions are permitted.
The vehicle is equipped with power windows controlled by the door modules. The DDM receives a window switch request, over the SBI serial data, from either the passenger door module wired to the window switch pressed or from the driver door switch assembly. The DDM checks the Class 2 serial data to see if the status information is correct (i.e. ignition switch position) to permit window operation.
If the status information to permit window operation is correct, the DDM sends the command to the door module controlling the window to move the window as requested.
Windows Power and Ground
The windows are powered by discreet power and ground circuits. These circuits are in the same dedicated connector as the window motor drive circuits.
These systems are very complex and are able to set DTC'S in the controlling module .Your best bet is to take your vehicle to a qualified repair shop .
DTC B3142 LF Unlock Switch Circuit Low DTC B3147 Passenger Unlock Switch Circuit Low DTC B3152 LF Lock Switch Circuit Low DTC B3157 Passenger Lock Switch Circuit Low DTC B3172 RF Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3177 RF Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3182 LR Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3187 LR Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3192 RR Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3197 RR Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3377 LF Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3382 LF Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3387 RF Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3392 RF Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3397 LR Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3452 LR Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3457 RR Window Up Switch Circuit Low DTC B3462 RR Window Down Switch Circuit Low DTC B3467 LF Window Express Down Circuit Low DTC B3472 RF Window Express Down Circuit Low DTC B3527 Window Lockout Switch Circuit Low
DTC'S are intended to point the qualified technician in the correct diagnostic path. You may have a communication or network problem . Are you familiar with class two serial data bus communication network . The simple bus provides a means for information exchange among the vehicle door modules. Door module information on inputs and commanded outputs are converted to serial bus interface data for exchange among the door modules. The DDM can also take information from modules connected to the class 2 serial data circuit and relay the command to the simple bus interface. The vehicle power mode message (ignition switch position) from the DIM is an example. The DDM periodically addresses each module on the simple bus interface. When a module does not respond to the DDM, the DTC for that module is set. You can't just replace these modules , some need to be programmed . Dealer only ! First check codes , power an grounds etc....

The master window switch will control LF window, LR window, RF window, and RR window. There is also the door lock switch on the module and a window lock switch.

I hope this is helpful.

-Scott

Probably a bad Body Control Module. Find out which switch (which door switch [LF door, LR door, RF door or RR door switch]) causes that to happen to help narrow down a wiring issue.

Lincoln Town Car window electric motors (do not lift window) ::
Problem is usually not the regulator cables like other cars--
window motors on Lincolns have a set of 3 small plastic pieces about 3/8" dia. and about 1/4" long that act as "shear keys" these tend to age and then shatter, leaving everything running but no UP
against the weight and friction of the windows. you CAN get the window up by pulling up on the glass while someone presses the
UP button. Taking the motor out and either replacing the whole thing with a new motor ($75 at Advantage Parts, with the correct plug already on the wires is what I did), then disassembled the
motor and said *!#!* and then went on line and found a little kit with the three plastic parts for about $3 /set. BIG problem is that to
GET the motors out, you have to DRILL OUT THE RIVETS that
hold the window regulator guides and cable assemblies in place,
get to the motors mounting screws, fix them, then put motor back in
and replace the rivets with screws/nuts/lockwashers. You have
to do this to replace the motor anyway! ALTERNATE to on-line
plastic parts is to go to Home Depot and buy some plastic rod the
right dia. and carefully hacksaw out some very short lengths of
the plastic rod. Been fixing them this way since then, one
window at a time as they quit working. 1992 towncar uses the
SAME MOTOR on the RF and LR, and different motor on the LF
and the RR; same motors are used on some other older Ford
and Mercury full-size cars. See parts store for parts # lists.
The ones Advantage sells are Bosch motors, others at OReilly
etc are various brands or non-brands and you have to splice wires.
rtl in Houston Sept 18, 2010

most likely your window regulator is broken. if so i would remove the door panel and loosen it form the regulator side it up and prop it with a piece of wood. M.B. fuses their windows in an (x) ps=attern i.e. lf and rr-rf and lr. see if the opposite window works.

replace switch

you could use a simple piece of wire to cross the pins on the back of the connector on the switch. a 14-16 gauge piece of wire is fine.  it sounds like the switch has gone faulty. 
i think on your vehicle the window switch colors should be
LF=Dark Blue, RF=Light Blue, LR=Dark Green, RR=Light Green this is for window up. just jump these to a positive feed located next to it.

Hi,

Most Honda ABS warning light will blink in 2 parts, main system and then sub system to form the code pair. As an example is 3 blinks then 3 blinks is a code 3-5. Once determined, reference below listing.
1 - ABS pump motor over-run
1 2 ABS pump motor
1 3 high pressure leakage
1 4 pressure switch
1 8 high pressure system
2 1 parking brake
3 1 pulser RF
3 2 pulser LF
3 4 pulser RR
3 8 pulser LR
3 12 different diameter tires
4 1 wheel sensor RF
4 2 wheel sensor LF
4 4 wheel sensor RR
4 8 wheel sensor LR
5 - rear wheel lock - R/L
5 4 rear wheel lock - R
5 8 rear wheel lock - L
6 - fail-safe relay - F/R
6 1 fail-safe relay - F
6 4 fail-safe relay - R
7 1 solenoid - RF
7 2 solenoid - LF
7 4 solenoid - R
8 1 ABS function
8 2 CPU comparison
8 4 IC self-check

Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.

Good luck and kind regards.

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