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Rick Posted on Mar 22, 2016
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Can you bleed the brakes system from the top of the brake line

1 Answer

L Pfaff

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  • Cars & Trucks Master 11,573 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 22, 2016
L Pfaff
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Can you bleed the brakes system from the top of the brake line Rick, No! I will post links to proper bleeding procedures, if you can not do it this way, take it in to a qualified shop. Some vehicles need to use a scan tool during the bleeding process to cycle the pump and valves.
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info."
How To Bleed Your Brakes Feature

Bleeding Brakes

How to do Complete Brake Flush and Bleed

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 232 Answers
  • Posted on May 15, 2009

SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

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Mike

  • 4383 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 20, 2009

SOURCE: bleeding brakes 2000 suburban wsith ab

Why were the brake lines replaced?

Sounds like the mastercylinder may have run dry. You have to bench bleed the master and then DO NOT allow fluid to run low, while bleeding brakes...

if master cylinder runs low on fluid and air gets in, almost impossible to bleed with out releasing the lines and bleed master it self.

Anonymous

  • 396 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2009

SOURCE: how to bleed brakes on 1500 1999 silverado

In order to do this. Jack up the car on tire at a time. Look underneath the car and you should see a bleeder valve. Attach a hose to the valve, then run the valve into a jar filled with brake fluid. Have some apply pressure to the brake pedal. Open the valve insuring the hose is in the brake fluid. Do Each wheel on wheel at a time. Refill the brake resivor each time After bleeindg all brakes refill resivor. .

Testimonial: "We could not get the fluid to come out,but only jacked up part of the truck. We will try each wheel. I was wondering if it could be the master cylinde"

Anonymous

  • 5081 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 21, 2009

SOURCE: bleeding brake system how?

BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM

Make sure one end of the Jeep is raised (starting with the rear end) and secure on jack stands and the wheels on each side have been removed. If you have been working on the brakes, this should already be done.

Connect a clear rubber tube to the bleeder valve on the right rear brake caliper. Start with this end and side because it is farthest from the master cylinder.Place the tube's other end into a container partially filled with brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and have an assistant press on the brake pedal inside the Jeep. Look for a mixture of air and fluid to come out of the valve. Once all the air is purged and the fluid runs cleanly from the valve, close the screw and remove the tube.

Repeat the process for all four brakes. Move to the left rear next, followed by the right front and the left front. If you need to, reconnect the Jeep's rear wheels and lower the rear end before raising the front end and removing those wheels.

Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder periodically as you bleed the brakes. If the level drops below the needed fill line, add more fluid. Use fresh fluid, not any that you have bled from the brakes.

Start the Jeep's engine after bleeding all the brakes and press on the brake pedal. You might need to do this repeatedly to seat new brake pads you just installed. Turn off the engine and hold down on the pedal. Bleed the brakes again if the pedal sink within 15 to 20 seconds.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 02, 2011

SOURCE: Broken brake line on 1990

1990 Chevy 4.3 l engine runs rough at idle half the time-- sometimes it's OK, other days it's rough and can smell raw gas, as tho it's running rich... any ideas?

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0helpful
1answer

My power steering pump went out. after replacing it and the brake booster i still have no brakes. we have tried bleeding all for brakes and the brakes peddle still goes to the floor?

there is a particular method to bleeding brakes
IT is a 2 person operation and you start at the longest brake line first
If you have disconnect/replaced the master cylinder it is prudent that you loosen a line at the master cylinder and bleed the air out there first ( primes the master cylinder)
pump/press the pedal to the floor and hold it there as the bleed nipple is opened to let air out
close the nipple and repeat the process until only solid fluid comes out
move to the next wheel and repeat the process ending at the shortest line
at all times be aware of the amount of brake fluid in the reservoir because if you get the line with all the air the level will drop rapidly and will allow air back into the system if not kept topped up
Failing that get it to an accredited brake specialist shop and have them fix any faults and do the bleed
0helpful
3answers

Why does my brake pedel go down after I replaced my master cylinder?

Did you properly refill the brake system? Did you bleed it to get rid of air?
0helpful
2answers

After bleeding brakes still have spongy brakes

you still have some air in the lines. go back thru the bleed process again if that doesn't work, get to a power brake bleeder.(amazon about$70) that is a system that puts pressure on top of mc to push fluid thru the system as you open bleed screws. did you know you can adjust brakes by holding down lock button and pumping emergency brake handle. good luck
0helpful
1answer

Free online chilton manual

Its possible it could be the master cylinder itself, It should always push fluid. Does the car have ABS? It could also be inside the ABS module if it does. I am familiar with brake systems and diagnostics, just not familiar with this year olds whether it has abs or not.
1helpful
1answer

No Brakes

I am suspicious as the brake system is repairable by some one who knows their business. Replace the brake master cylinder and any leaking cylinders and the system only needs bleeding correctly again. Start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. The quote is way over the top unless there is an abs in the system. I would get a second quote anyway and get a list of the work that needs to be done
2helpful
1answer

Brake pedal soft after changing pads and bleeding brakes

You will need to bleed the brake system. I would start with the rear brakes lines and work towards the front.You must have key off engine off when bleeding brakes, apply pressure on brake pedal 10 times and hold. The brake line is now ready to be open. Open and let the stream of fluid come out and close the line tight. Then release brake pedal once bleeder screw is close. This procedure must be repeated twice front and back. After, brakes have been bleed pump the brake pedal before putting in drive.
Note: Don't let the resevoir run low on brake fluid. This will cause air bubbles to accumulate on the brake system. Always top off before opening bleeder screw.
1helpful
1answer

Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?

Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech
0helpful
2answers

I replaced front and back brakes on my 1996 1500 Chev Suburban. Bled the brakes starting at the farthest line. The pedal is soft and travels too far. Does not seem to stop very good. What is the...

it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.
0helpful
2answers

Blew a brake line in back then fixed the line but still no back brakes

Loosen the bleed screw and and pump the brakes until straight brake fluid comes out. Make sure you get the air all out or it will just keep happening. Make sure to top up brake fluid after as well.
2helpful
1answer

How do i bleed the brakes on a 1999 Pontiac Grand Am?

Bleeding the Brake System
When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or
replacement, air may get into the lines and cause spongy pedal action (because
air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is
necessary to bleed the hydraulic system so to be sure all air is purged.

When bleeding the brake system, bleed one brake cylinder at a time, beginning
at the cylinder with the longest hydraulic line (farthest from the master
cylinder) first. ALWAYS Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake
fluid during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained
from the hydraulic system, no matter how clean it is.

The primary and secondary hydraulic brake systems are separate and are bled
independently. During the bleeding operation, do not allow the reservoir to run
dry. Keep the master cylinder reservoir filled with brake fluid.


  1. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap, remove the cap and
    fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 I n.
    (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
  2. Clean the bleeder screws at all 4 wheels. The bleeder screws are located on
    the top of the brake calipers.
  3. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other
    end of the hose in a glass jar, submerged in brake fluid.
  4. Starting at the right rear proceed in this order left front, left rear and
    right front.
  5. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Have an assistant slowly depress the
    brake pedal.
  6. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant to allow the brake pedal to
    return slowly. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
  7. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, close the
    bleeder screw and remove the hose.
  8. Check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly. Do this
    after bleeding each wheel.
  9. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level.


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