Electronic door locks deactivated. Will not work using FOB or the electronic switch inside the doors.

There is a linkage rod that connects the door key lock to the door lock. It is probably disconnected.

first go to the dealer and ask them to see if the fob is still transmitting, there should be no charge for this as they use it to sell fobs which are not cheap. if it is transmitting then door switch may need replaced or a wire is off inside the door. some switches can be removed without taking off the door panel, if this is true with yours then you can check the switch for disconnected wires. otherwise the door panel has to come off.

Sound like you missing a ground somewhere,Only in park,The park signal is in the instrument cluster,The goes to the BCM, go to the engine juction fuse box check fuses listed as GATE REL this is 20 amps,then check IPMDL fuse this is10 amps. , Then check the BCM D fuse this is the 25 amp fuse it is located in the center console or the floor, If every thing is good you can try a reflash of the BCM.

The fob and car have to go to the dealer to have it reprogramed.

See if there is a fuse for your door locks.

Good Luck!

SOUNDS LIKE THE FOB HAS A MALFUNCTION CONNTACT DEALER WITH VIN NUMBER AND GET A NEW ONE

I had they same problem a few years back. Aging electronic circuits may be the issue here. That is what happened to cause the remote door feature to operate intermittently in my 1991 Buick Regal. Over time the heat of summer and the cold in winter stress solder joints on printed circuit boards. That stress can bring about what is known as cold solder joints.

I located the remote door receiver module behind the back seat under the cover that holds the Third Brake Light. Once removed from the car I opened the module up and inspected the printed circuit. Sure enough I saw the problem using a magnifying glass. Many of the solder points had cracks around connectors, resistors, capacitors to name a few. Resoldering each bad point sovled the intermittent operation. I hope this helps...

That remote is not factory equipt., right? It seems like it is a classical unlock-a-door-and-the-electronics-will-do-the-rest kind of power lock. So maybe the motor is used only as a sensor.
Or did it function before??? If not and the dealership sold you the car this way, tell them that they've mounted an aftermarket remote lock and forgot to have it done properly and refuse to pay, as it's their fault.
If it functioned well before than maybe go to a car electrician or better a car security specialist dealing with alarms and electronic door-lock systems. You can have it done 250(including labor) anywhere! even at NASA

I was able to determine if you move the inside door handle toward the front of the car, then you could remove the door panel. However, it takes a little force to pot out the plastic clips, but if you work around the outside by appling pressure with a thin tool, such as a putty knife it will pot out.

My problem was a small yellow plastic part that connects the outside and inside door handle rods was broken.

So I plan to replace the part and see if that fixes the provlem. If so I can save over $340 dealer repair costs.