Blown radiator.. 2001 grand cherokee jeep - Jeep Cars & Trucks

SOURCE: 2001 jeep grand cherokee seat removal

i actually removed my 2 front seats very easily as a novice. There really is only i think 4 bolts that need to come out 2 in front and 2 in back. If i can remember correctly i believe it was a larger metric size. Although i dont have power seats, if you do just look for the clip connector and disengage

SOURCE: 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee which fuse controls heated seats?

Fuse # 20, located in the Junction Block (interior, drivers side). This is a ten amp fuse.

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Read the information at the above site. The TSB (technical service bulletin) may be of interest to you.

SOURCE: radiator fan not working replaced relay,temp

Check the wiring from the relay to the fan motor, and check the wiring from the fuse block. Basically check all wires that supply power to the fan motor, use a volt meter. Fan Relay (behind headlight, under battery) on the 2001 GC 4.0L are a piece of ****, I change mine almost yearly. The problem is their location, a high heat area prone to the elements. I understand that 2002 and newer, the location was changed and the problem solved. Relay might close the circuit when cold or at reasonable temps, but might open a circuit when it heats up, causing the problem.

SOURCE: window motor replace 2001 jeep grand cherokee

You need to remove all the skrews from the door. Normaly there is one in the handle of the door, one behind the in door lach handel and one under the bump out for the arm rest on the door. Than you need to take a flat head skrew driver slowly priying the panel off. There are plastic clips on the backside of the panel it is ok if you brake a few.

SOURCE: 2001 Jeep grand cherokee motor knock 4.7 motor

First, if the noise is from the upper part of the engine and is more of a tapping than a knock, likely you have a problem in the valvetrain, most often a bad lifter or worn rocker arm. If the noise is low, deep inside, the noise is from a bearing. This is generally accompanied by lower than normal oil pressure. Regardless of the underlying cause, correcting the cause will not stop the knock. To do that correctly, the engine needs to be removed and all crankshaft bearings and the crankshaft itself need to be replaced (crank can sometimes be "undercut" and thicker bearing shells can be used depending upon the amount of wear.) If caught very early, sometimes only one bearing can be replaced in-car, but in 99% of all cases I have ever seen, most will fail again, sometimes more severely if done this way.

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