How to remove front hub bearing from a 2011 Aveo Lt

SOURCE: 1994 GMC Suburban front hub / bearing removal

Knock the wheel studs through the assy.

SOURCE: 2003 trailblazer lt 4wheel drive

1. Remove the tire and wheel center cap.
2. Remove the drive axle nut.
3. Raise and support the vehicle. Remove the tire and wheel. .
4. Remove the brake rotor.
5. Disengage the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing. Place a brass drift against the outer end of the wheel drive shaft in order to protect the wheel drive shaft threads. Sharply strike the brass drift with the hammer. Do not attempt to remove the wheel drive shaft from the wheel hub and bearing at this time.
6. Remove the wheel hub and bearing from the steering knuckle by removing the three bolts coming in from the back side of the knuckle.

SOURCE: remove front axle from differential on 2003 dodge ram

That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings

SOURCE: how do u remove front wheel bearing

Take off the wheel, then the brake caliper, noow you have the roter. in the center is a cap, the center cap, this comes off by pruing it off with a screwdriver. Inside that a retaning pin, take that out, then a nut cover, and nut with grooves in it from where you took out the pin. It is good to mark about where it was so when you put it together, you will not overtighten it.

Take that nut off, then you should be able to take off the whole assembly, bearings and all. If this is a sealed unit, you have to but a roter that will have the guts already inside it. make sure you clean off all of the old grease, you are going to replace critical parts, so you need new grease for them. Also make sure your spildle is not grooved, if so haw bad, you might replace it to if all gualled up.

on a sealed unit you just reverse the steps from taking it off.

if not you have to knock out the old races in the caliper, the one side by a wide screwdriver and hammer, there are pullers, but from the way it sounds, it is in there tight. Just be carefull not to kill the sides and rotate it around when doing this. once it is out, do the other side, find a socket that size, one thak will fit in the race almost to the edges and beat it out. now make sure the caliper is in a flat surface, and use a blanket or something toi avoid knicking the thing.

once both are out, just reverse the process, grease the inside just a bit and when you put the race in use a socket that is the size of the race, and beat it in evenly.grease your bearings, make sure you do one side at a time, and putting them back on the spindle is a cake walk compared to what you just have done.

hope this helps

SOURCE: how to remove rear bearing hub

The bearing is already shot so disregard what you hear about loosening the hub nut before you jack the car up. If you are doing this in your backyard it is VERY important to jack and support the car properly....you won't be able to use the parking brake because you'll be taking the disc/hat off. So work smart and safe.----Remove hub cap. :---Spray PB Blaster or another good rust killer in the hub, and all the nuts you will be removing. That means the pinch bolts for the toe link and the upper ball joint, plus the nut. Also the nut on the bolt of the lower arm. --Break the lug nuts AND 36mm hub nut a 1/4 turn.--Jack up the car and support. Remove lug nuts, then tire.----Remove brake caliper and support it to prevent damage to hose....I hung mine from the coil spring...The metal brake line fit in between the coils very nicely.----Remove disc/hat.----Remove the 36mm hub nut (you need buy a new one...really) -----Use a hub puller to press the axle shaft in through the hub, just a little bit...to break the rust. JUST A LITTLE! YOU ARE JUST BREAKING THE RUST SO IT WILL COME APART EASIER LATER. Spray it again and move on. Remove puller for now. -----Remove the springs, and retainers from the parking brake and remove the parking brake shoes.----Remove the parking brake levers coming through the rubber bushing .----Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Upper Ball Joint (at 12 o'clock) MAKE SURE YOU PUT THIS SAME BOLT BACK IN WITH A NEW NUT. THIS BOLT IS A LITTLE LONGER THAN THE TOE LINK BOLT!----Note: The pinch arms are just a term for the design....the bolt goes through a split....when the bolt is tightened, it clamps on the part that is meant to be held. Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Remove the Nut and Pinch Bolt from the Toe Link (at 7 o'clock)

Separate carefully....don't damage boot. I actually drove a stubby screw driver through the pinch arms of the knuckle to free it.

Support lower arm (I used a cinder block)

Remove nut and bolt through lower arm (at 6 o'clock)

The only thing holding you back now should be getting the hub / knuckle assembly off the axle shaft.

Attach your puller again to the hub and as you tighten it the hub / knuckle assembly should start coming off the axle shaft pretty easily....if it doesn't, spray it.

The hub must be pressed out of the bearing
The bearing must be pressed out of the knuckle.

The new bearing must be pressed into the knuckle.
The NEW hub must be pressed into the bearing.

I don't have a press and had a local machine shop do this part for $50.00

I didn't have all tools and had to buy a few.

24" breaker bar $20
36mm hub socket $17
Universal Hub Puller $ 21....AutoZone will buy back but I will keep
The other tools are just a couple of sockets and wrenches....I think 18mm.
A ball joint splitter....PB Blaster (I swear by this stuff)

You SHOULD replace the HUB and bearing. I got the hub and bearing at AutoZone for $121.....tools cost $58...Machine Shop was $50.

Total cost was about $230.....dealer wanted $750.
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