Why wont my car start gauges and lights come on but wont crank no power going to soelinoid wire

Ford 150 Van No Start No Crank Same problem aftermarket remote start problem !
Watch the second part too . Do you know what a wiring diagram is ? Look under dash or the hood an see where the remote start is hooked up , what wires ! You can find a wiring diagram here at http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html Enter the vehicle info. year , make , model an engine size . Under system click on engine , then under subsystem click on starting . Click the search button , then on blue link . You'll see all the componets in the starter circuit .

If the alarm is aftermarket I would remove it , I see this problem several times a month , take a test light and test for power at the starter signal wire while someone turns the key to crank this is the small gauge wire going into starter,if there is no power at this wire it will not crank ,if you momentarily apply voltage to the starter signal wire it will crank( also check starter signal fuse)(most alarm systems have a starter interrupt system ,and the aftermarket alarms fail after a few years) Alot of people believe there alarm is factory because it was there when they bought it new but dealer do add alarms that are aftermarket to please there insurance companies

typical jeep gremlins on a 17 year old car
mechanics either replace all the computers and modules
or throw lots of unnecessary parts into it with minimal results

needs a volt meter an LED test lamp and a lot of time
tracing the wiring faults
starting at the battery through to the ECU and ignition

check for poor electrical connections at the starter and battery check for power at the start wire on the starter should have power when key is in the crank position if it has you need a starter

I have a similar problem, intermitently the car will not crank. The dome light stays on which eliminates the battery. The clock on the radio turns off when I try to start it. Th Theft light is solid red the first time I try to start it, then latter after a few tries the red light is off, but it still wont start. I tried moving the shifter when in park, I even tried starting it in neutral. After a while it starts and once started it runs fine. I will have to take it to Ford next week. We just do not want to drive it, it is too unreliable. It is a 2000 Ford Taurus.

If you have a test light, you should check the small "tickler" wires on the starter relay. You do not know if the start signal is getting from the keyswitch to the solenoid. With the small wire detached you should be able to use a test light or 12volt meter on this wire. When you turn the keyswitch to start, the tickler wire should have power. If it does not, the ignition switch is probably bad.

If the tickler does have power, then clean the mounting surface of the solenoid and reconnect the wire and see if it works. If the car cranks you were losing the ground. If the car still does not crank put the test light on the cable going to the starter and ground the test light or gauge.

You will know there is power to the starter if the test light or gauge shows power from this connection. This means the solenoid is good and either the starter itself is shorted or has lost its grounding. Check all connections by the starter and try again.
If no luck the starter is bad.

At the base of your steering column is the ignition/start/run switch. This has failed and needs to be replaced. You'll need to drop the column and remove the kneepad to gain access. Be sure to locate the new switch in the exact spot of the old one. It has slotted screws.

check out the injectors and the coil pack to make sure you are getting spark

Check fuel filter.

if the security light is on it could be the ign lock cylinder, it has two small wires attached to it and one may be broken and are the keys the ones that came with the vehicle