One of taco zone relay switch keeps tripping pump

Have you checked that your inertia switch isn't tripped?

The hall sender in the distributor through a taco-metric fuel pump relay

Not sure I am following your story, but here goes.
The fuel pump relay gets power from a fuseable link at the starter solenoid and from the EEC relay. When the fuel pump is grounded by the computer it sends power to the inertia switch then to the pumps and controls.
If you are not getting main power to the relay the fuseable link (yellow wire) is fried. If the pump relay is not engaging, the EEC relay could be toast (red wire). If you are getting power out of the relay but not to the pumps, the inertia switch may be tripped.

What size engine ? gas or diesel ? Did you check fuel pump inertia switch for being tripped ?

Good info on the PATS / theft light. Looks to be the PATS / HEC operation is functioning correctly

The Fuel inertia switch only cuts power to the fuel pump, so if tripped, the truck would have a crank no start issue. Do you have a crank no start, or no crank issue.

To reset, just press down on it. To check if the switch is tripped, check for power at the connector to the fuel inertia switch

Engine compartment fuse # 10 ( 20A ) to the fuel pump relay -> Dark Green w/ yellow stripe wire to the fuel inertia switch -> pink w/ black stripe wire to the fuel pump module.
Check the pink w/ black stripe wire to ground with a meter for power, with the key in the run position.

If you turn the key from off to run ( do not start ) you should hear the fuel pump cycle ( hum, then turn off ).

Could be an issue with the fuel pump relay ( my '01 had a crank no start at ~ 35K miles, bad fuel pump relay ). I proved this out ( after a stupid ID10T error in my diagnoses process ) by jumpering the normally open contacts in the fuel pump relay socket, and then installing the trailer tow reverse circuit relay into the fuel pump relay socket ( same full size Ford Relay ).

Jumpering the fuel pump relay in the relay socket ( remove relay and use jumper wire ), red line


If you have a no crank issue, could be the DTR ( Digital Transmission Range ) sensor on the driver's side of the trans is out of alignment.

Check the start motor relay ( on the firewall on the passenger side ) for power on the Tan w/ Red stripe wire when the key is in the start position ( this is from the ignition switch through the DTR when in park or neutral to the starter motor relay ).

You can test another route, turn the key to the run position, and apply power to the Tan w/ Red stripe wire on the starter motor relay in the engine compartment on the firewall. BE CAREFUL, the motor should turn over, keep clear of moving parts.

Post back a comment to this problem with the results of the testing.

Thanks

Your car has a electrical ignition switch,that may causing that the relay does not activate that soon.

Relay in fuse box under hood most are square and gray. The inside lid of box should tell you which one. If relay is OK then get ready to buy a fuel pump.

I have a 1996 sonoma the fuel pump relay is in the dash take cover off .There is three relays the one to your left is the pump relay! They are all three the same so you can switch them .You can check the relay by switching it with one of the relay to your right.Just bought one $9.95 AUTO-ZONE

CHECK THE MAP SENSOR