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Anthony Ford Posted on Dec 29, 2015

Will a vacuum line stop it from going into gears?

1 Answer

Babs

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  • Contributor 19 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 24, 2016
Babs
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Yes it's your vacuum module .

5 Related Answers

Ontheother Hand

  • 41 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 25, 2009

SOURCE: I have a 93 Chevy Suburban 1500 and the

yes just change out the tail shaft the electric speed o into the older one i just changed out a 84 to a 93 trans very easy

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Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 30, 2009

SOURCE: 2002 chevy trailblazer, replacing the transmission lines

the are located behind the dipstick on the passenger side of the transmission, you must remove the retainer clips and pull straight out the same as to the radiator. You may beed to remove the heat shield on the side of the transmission to ease acces

Molson02536

Harvey N Tawatao

  • 3854 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 17, 2010

SOURCE: 94 chevy suburban transmission not shifting have

Before guessing at transmission problems, check the fluid level (car warmed up, engine running in Park on level ground) and have the PCM scanned for trouble codes FIRST.
Secondly, put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.500" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
1-2 shift does not happen at WOT or until you let off the gas: Best case
: * Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace the TPS. - * Middle case: leak in the 2nd gear apply circuit (servo assembly or 1-2 accumulator). Doublecheck by using the pressure gauge and watch for a big drop when the PCM commands 2nd gear. / *Worst case: poor line pressure rise 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Check the yellow spring inside the accum housing for breakage. Also, if the accumulator housing walls are scored, the housing must be replaced. Easy fix in the pan.

Good luck and thank you for using Fixya. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).


Anonymous

  • 72 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 06, 2010

SOURCE: 2002 chevy malibu transmission soleniod

It doesn't sound like a solenoid, check the universals and if it's not those, it is more than likely a linkage problem,

Please rate this answer. Thank you.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Jan 16, 2011

SOURCE: Need a vacuum hose routing

Thinking this third hose is the actual vacuum hose that goes to the T near the vacuum reservoir located in the drivers side fender just below the antilock brake assembly. There is a one way valve in the line from the transmission to the T.

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0helpful
2answers

I have a 2004 Mazda 6s, 6cyl. w/ almost 90k miles shuttering

have the fault codes read and use a quality injector cleaner in the fuel
it could be low fuel pressure , injector problems or accelerator position sensor related
2helpful
1answer

Transmission is fixed, has a new TPS and a new Oxygen sensor. After these last 2 things was install (past sunday). Vehicle now doesn't sound too accellerated but I still continue having problems with the...

Dont throw it off a cliff just yet :-) Just check the vacuum line from the inlet manifold back to the transmission, ensure that fittings are air tight and that there are no holes in the line.
Explanation for possible fix:- When the car is at idle the inlet manifold plenum has a reasonably high vacuum generated within it. The vacuum line to the transmission conveys this drop in pressure to the shift solenoid. When you accelerate slowly you hardly open the throttle and the vacuum remains high in the system. The solenoid allows early shifts through to the higher gears. If you accelerat hard the throttle is open wide and hardly any vacuum is maintained. The shift solenoid, in the absence of vacuum in the line, now holds each gear for much longer allowing the engine to use its full power band.
If the inlet plenum suffers from an air leak or the vacuum line to the transmission becomes loose or a leak develops in it the solenoid reads this as if the car is accelerating hard and wants to hold each gear for as long as possible. This situation sounds like your problem so check that everything is free of any possible leak. If you find a leak and cure it not only will the shift pattern be fixed but your engine idle will be much better too.
0helpful
1answer

I have lost the rear gear in my transmission, consequently, the engine trys to stall when car is slowing down to near stop. may be two seperate problems???

Ckeck your vacuum lines. Often they leak. Sometimes it's the vacuum line to the transmission modulator as in the winter ice & snow buildup will pull it off or cause a leak. It may also be internal but check all your vacuum lines first. Good luck! P.S With the engine running spray lightly over the vacuum lines. This will reveal the leak. Be careful, you keep it away from hot surfaces.
0helpful
1answer

Right side will not go into four wheel drive. I have the manual shift in the floor. Left side engages--right won't.

Sounds like an issue with the IWE gear ( spring ) not engaging.

The IWE ( Integrated Wheel End ) is vacuum & spring operated. When the truck is running and in 2WD, vacuum is applied to the IWE, and holds the IWE gear out. Once vacuum is removed ( placed into 4H or 4L or turn off ) the vacuum is removed, and the spring pushes the IWE gear into place, locking the wheel to the front axle.

Could be a plugged vent line, you can start by removing the vacuum line from that side, and the vent line ( same vacuum line, just routes into the engine compartment, and is not connected to anything ) and see if the IWE will engage.
If the spring seems to move, but the wheel is not engaged, you would need to take it apart to confirm if the IWE spring or the gear itself ( worn down from part engagement ) is the issue.

This is a block diagram of the IWE system
351b3e5.jpg

There was a TSB on the IWE solenoid, where water could get into the system, and cause the IWE gear to be part engaged, causing the gears to be ground down ( you would have heard a grinding noise in 2WD ).
This is the TSB
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf
1helpful
1answer

I'm having trouble when I put the car in drive it's going through it's gear progression slow and it's idiling high I'm thinking it may be the transmission fillter since I had the transmission replaced...

Check this first. On the transmission there should be a small vacuum line that goes all the way to the inlet plenum, check that both ends of this line are are connected securely and that the line has no holes in it. This vacuum line governs the rate at which the transmission moves from one gear to the next. When the engine is running slowly, just above idle, the throttle plate is all but closed and the car will shift through the gears pretty quickly as there is no load and plenty of vacuum. If on the other hand when the engine is racing under load, with the throttle plate fully open, there is little vacuum and the transmission holds in gear for very much longer before up shifting. If this vacuum line is disconnected or leaking the transmission will interpret this as the engine under load and will be very tardy in up shifting.
0helpful
1answer

I have a winding noise on passenger side when i put it in 4wd it stops can somebody help

This sounds like a vacuum leak to the IWE ( Integrated Wheel End ) on that side. Vacuum holds the IWE gear out, when you shift into 4H or 4L, the IWE solenoid cuts vacuum to the IWE, and the IWE spring pushes the gears together, engaging the front hub.
The other thing could be there is a TSB on the older revisions of the IWE solenoid, that water can get into the vacuum system, and cause a similar issue ( the vacuum is trying to **** water, as well as hold the IWE gear out ).
Take a look at this TSB
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf

I would start with checking the vacuum lines, and work towards the IWE solenoid.
If it is both sides, could be the vacuum box ( behind the battery box ) or vacuum lines towards the intake, but considering it is a single side, I would check for cracked vacuum line & / or water in the vacuum line.
3helpful
1answer

Grinding noise

I am going to guess a bad vacuum line some where in the 4x4 hub system.

Operationally vacuum holds the IWE ( Integrated Wheel Ends ) out, and once vac is removed the spring engages the IWE.

I get the bad vacuum line ( or vacuum box ) from the fact that the problem happens after vacuum has been applied to the IWE to pull the spring out. I would also guess this does not happen when in 4H or 4L.

Here is a vacuum block diagram of the IWE vacuum system
e000ccf.jpg

It could also be the IWE vacuum solenoid, there is a TSB on this ( right click save as ).
http://my.voyager.net/~sscully/file_tsb06_08_15.pdf
0helpful
1answer

Gears wont change

Check under the hood near the firewall towards the center of the intake manifold. There is a vacuum line that feeds a valve on the tranny called a modulator valve. This tells the transmissiion to shift out of first gear based upon the amount of vacuum it recieves. It is highly likely that the line was removed or broken while attempting to acess the distributor cap. Thank you.Dana P.S. This vacuum line is usually connected to a solid tubing going down towards the tranny.
0helpful
1answer

Engine go off

I am going on vacation so I hope this helps,
Surely since its a car-borated engine with numerous vacuum lines, one vacuum line could be leaking causing this condition.
Setting that aside for now you could have a skewed T.C.C. valve. Thats the transmission converter clutch valve. It locks up the transmission torque converter to aid in fuel mileage at speeds above around 40 mph. The unit is normally locked out of 1st gear. When it acts up it applies at the higher speeds but doesn't disengaged. This will cause the engine to stall. The feeling to the driver is quite distinctive. The normally is a shaking or vibration felt the moment before the engine stalls, it could feel like a shutter not unlike the sensation one feels when driving a stick shift and comes to a stop in gear without depressing the clutch petal. The hole thing is controlled by the engine computer. There is a connector on the transmission which is normally square with 4 receptacles, disconnect it and drive the car as you normally would. See if it stops stalling. If so you need to replace the solenoid. Its located in the transmission under the transmission pan. This a long shot but without inspecting all the vacuum lines and numerous other sup-systems its well worth looking at a could be a fast test. Just unplug it and drive it normally
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