Why is fully-charged battery too low to start within 6 hours?

the security light stops engine from running, not told
the lamp and be door problems. secure.
the owners manual shows what the the lamp means and who to blink and not, and what all that means.
car came with 2 keys new lost the spare?
never have only one key with any IMMO opted car.
evap is 99% loose gas cap endless and posted 1million times on the internet, forget the EVAP ok. until IMMO works again.
you never told what works and what does not, and both matter.
does car drive, now, ?
FOBS
keyfob if the key fob battery is dead a $1 fix sold at walmart
the weak key fob battery causes the fob to send corrupted data.
and the receiver in the car may show errors, (secure lamp glows)
DO have 2 fobs. or best one with new battery ? put in first
if the car will not RUN say so or if it does.
we can't see over you shoulder for all that.

now evap.
put in a new gas cap
and drive for a 3 days see if 455 errors end. (cold starts count)
or just keep it fully tight.
455 means cap missing or crazy super loose. leaking tank fumes
it is a pure smog issue ,will not stop the engine.
caps can fail 2 ways, so a new one is wise 16 years old , super easy for it to fail, or be super loose. (do the easy stuff first and save $$$)
on my car I tighten cap or new one, and clear all DTC errors with my scan, tool or wait for 3 driving cycles , key off and on,
and it self clears. (cold starts )_ and fuel tank not full.
a full tank skips the evap tests. so.,...
until
between 1/4 and 3/4 full.

yes a purge valve EVAP can be bad. I lube mine with silicon spray and they keep working here for 14years now but 2 caps failed. on 3rd now. (if vents do leak a smoke test finds it pronto)

Is the battery fully charged??

Engine should be normal operating temp. Replace o2 sensors

O2 Emission Monitors & Evap Monitor-- are two
different systems

Get ALL your OBD Codes & work them one at a time,
& DO NOT Clear any data with code reader or removing
battery cable, or the monitors ALL have to run again

The heater may work in the sensor, but the sensor doesn't
switch fast enough or is worn out & the front sensors get
replaced at 100,000, before they fail or slow down

The Evap Codes will be needed, to work on that issue
That monitor runs last & only every few days

IF--- you had professional scan tool software, you would see
11 monitors & maybe 8 that run on your vehicle

There will be at least 2 for the O2,one for cylinder misfire,
one for evap, one for egr,& three others

To review - - after you disconnect the battery you need to drive the vehicle at highway speed for 20 - 50 miles to allow the computer to "re-learn" the data parameters. This means getting the engine up to operating temp and speeds of at least 50 mph.
If the engine does not reach operating temp some of the sensors will not be active yet.

Have the battery fully charged for 2-4 hours and then start the truck, once it starts check the altinator output and reply.

As of 1996,all cars sold in the US were required to have an OBD-II computer interface port.
You may want to go to Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Pep Boys, and get a free read
of the code(s) that you computer may be posting to help with your diagnosis.

The code coming from your vehicle's computer may be one or more of:

P0130 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0131 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor I)
P0132 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0133 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0134 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 1)
P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
P0136 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0137 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0138 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 2)
P0139 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0140 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0142 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0143 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0144 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0145 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 1 Sensor 3)
P0146 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0147 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank I Sensor 3)
P0150 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0151 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor I)
P0152 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0153 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0154 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
P0156 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0157 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0158 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0159 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0160 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0161 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)
P0162 02 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0163 02 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0164 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0165 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0166 02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 2 Sensor 3)
P0167 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 3)

Note: "Bank 1" is the side of the engine with cylinder 1. "Bank 2" is the other side.

P0300 - Random/Multiple Cylinder misfire detected
P0301 - Cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 - Cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire detected
P0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire detected
P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire detected
P0306 - Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P0307 - Cylinder 7 misfire detected
P0308 - Cylinder 8 misfire detected
P0313 - Misfire detected with low fuel

Maximas with the VE30DE and VQ30DE engines use a distributorless ignition system that is controlled by the Engine Control Module (ECM). The ECM receives a signal from the crankshaft sensor (the CPS - Crankshaft Position Sensor), and processes the signal based on inputs
from other various engine sensors, including the Oxygen sensor.
(this is the role of the O2 sensor in ECM operation).
Then the ECM sends signals to each of the individual coils in the proper firing order.
This system is more efficient than a distributor, and has fewer moving parts. The high voltage coils are directly attached to each spark plug, allowing a higher energy spark within the cylinder. A high energy spark means a faster, more thorough burning of the air/fuel mixture, which produces more power and lower emissions.


SECONDARY SPARK TEST - works for all cars, including Maxima.


1. Remove the spark plug.

2. Install the spark plug to the ignition coil/coil pack, then attach the coil wiring.

3. Ground the plug at a good ground location on the engine.

4. Crank the engine and check for spark.

5. If spark occurs, the ignition system is functioning properly.

6. If no spark exists, test the ignition coil/coil pack, power transistor and related wiring.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
HEI Ignition Spark test - works for all cars, including Maxima.

The next level test you may want to try is a HEI (high energy ignition) spark tester kit. Cost is
about $30 at most auto parts stores. Harbor Freight Tools sells a chinese equivalent for about $16.
Place the spark tester on each of the spark plugs, and watch as the little light in the tester will
light up each time the spark plug is fired by the computer. You can actually see weak or
intermittent sparking as the motor runs - you can tell by the relative strength of the light as
you compare the intensity and duration of the light across all 6 cylinders.

If your problem were the alternator (or its built-in voltage regulator), your battery would not be
getting a proper charge, and you
wouldn't be able to start the car after a drive, since the battery would have been drained during the
drive - normally, the alternator will both charge the battery and run all electrical
features of the car during a drive.

To test your alternator, place your DMM (digital multimeter) across the battery terminals while the
car is running - it should read 13.5VDC to 14.5VDC. With the car off, you can test your battery
voltage with the same DMM - it should read 12.65 VDC (for a fully charged battery).

Alternatively, you can take your car to Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, or Pep Boys, and they'll
attach their "charging system tester" to your car and give your car a nice test for free.
I do this with my customers' cars just to get that nifty printout of the problem. Its nice
to show a vehicle owner somethng in black & white when I'm recommending a new charging
or ignition system component (some of which can be a bit pricey).

2 things come to mind. first a trickle charg will take about 8 to 10 hours to fully charge the battery, so you might need to charge it longer to see if the battery takes a full charge. did you try jumping the car with another.
second is it possible the charger was hooked up backwards (pos to neg and vice versa)

could be ign module or start relay

if you can charge the battery and drive it for a while then sounds like the altenator has failed and is not re-charging the battery, good way to test is to charge the battery, start the car and turn the light on, if everything is dimm or the motor dies there is little to no charge voltage, and will require altenator work