Having issues with the alternator and starter. Its been replaced three times and i can't figure out what is causing the problem.

Hi. If your 1998 Ford F-150 starts when the electrical system is cold but fails to start after driving, and you have already replaced the battery, alternator, and solenoid, there are a few additional potential causes to consider: 1. Ignition Switch: The ignition switch may be failing or experiencing heat-related issues. Over time, the switch can develop internal faults that prevent the vehicle from starting when it's hot. Consider having the ignition switch inspected and potentially replaced if necessary. 2. Starter Motor: A faulty starter motor can exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. When the starter motor gets hot, it may fail to engage and crank the engine. Consider having the starter motor tested to determine if it's functioning correctly. 3. Heat Soak: Heat soak occurs when the heat generated during engine operation affects the electrical components, particularly the starter motor. This can cause the starter motor to become temporarily inoperative until it cools down. Insulating the starter motor or installing a heat shield may help alleviate this issue.

4. Wiring and Connections: Inspect the wiring and connections associated with the starting system. Look for loose, damaged, or corroded wires, connectors, and terminals. Heat can exacerbate electrical issues, so pay particular attention to any wiring or connections that may be affected by engine heat. Repair or replace any damaged wiring or connectors as necessary. 5. Fuel Delivery Issues: While this may not directly relate to the electrical system, fuel delivery problems can cause starting issues after the engine is hot. Check the fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel injectors for any signs of malfunction. Insufficient fuel pressure or clogged components can hinder the engine's ability to start when hot. It is advisable to have a qualified mechanic perform a thorough diagnostic check to identify the exact cause of the starting issue. They can use specialized tools and equipment to pinpoint the problem and provide appropriate repairs or replacements.

If your 2018 Kawasaki Mule Pro FXT Ranch Edition is blowing the 20amp fuse every time you turn the key on, it's likely that there is an electrical problem with your vehicle. Here are some possible causes and troubleshooting steps you can take to try and fix the issue:

1. Check for any damaged wiring: Visually inspect the wiring for any damage, such as frayed wires or loose connections. Any damaged wiring should be repaired or replaced before continuing.
2. Check for any loose or corroded connections: Make sure that all of the connections are clean and tight. Check for any corroded terminals and clean them if needed.
3. Check for a short circuit: A short circuit can cause a fuse to blow. Use a multimeter to check for continuity in the wiring. If a short circuit is found, it should be repaired before continuing.
4. Check the starter: The starter can also cause a fuse to blow. Test the starter with a multimeter and make sure it's working properly.
5. Check the alternator: The alternator can also cause a fuse to blow. Test the alternator with a multimeter and make sure it's working properly.
6. Check the battery: The battery can also cause a fuse to blow. Check the battery voltage with a multimeter and make sure it's charged.

If you're unable to locate the problem or if the problem persists, it's best to take your vehicle to a qualified mechanic to diagnose and repair the issue.
It's important to note that the above steps is a general guide, and specific instructions may vary depending on the year, make, and model of your vehicle.

Hi Andrew I had the same issue with my vw golfII I replaced my power distributor where the cables go to the spark plugs and my problem was solved Hope it works as wel for you

Know this problem was posted several years ago, but having same issue with my 2008 Nissan Rogue. We've tried everything short of having the battery replaced, (including charging it), and nada. So, tomorrow morning, that'll be our next move. Sucks, but best thing to die. Much rather than than an alternator, starter or solenoid.

Make sure battery has a full charge and battery connections all good.
At the starter motor, two voltage circuits. One comes from the battery, hot all the time. The other circuit goes hot with key in the crank position. The starter motor grounds through the engine block. You could use a test lite to check voltage at starter motor. There could be safety issues testing at starter motor, make sure tranny is in park or neutral and functional parking brake is set. If automatic tranny there is an inhibit switch, I usually call it a neutral switch. There could be other issues?

REPLACE BATTERY CABLES THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE COULD BE SHORTING TO GROUND.REPLACE STARTER SOLENOID IF NOT BEEN REPLACED.BESURE TO PLACE BACK FLEXIBLE CONDUIT THAT GOES AROUND POSITIVE BATTERY KEEP FROM SHORTING TO GROUND. LAST TIME I SEEN BATTERY CABLES OVER HEAT WAS EITHER STARTER AND SOLENOID SHORTING OUT OR VERY LOOSE BATTERY CABLES CONNECTIONS. REPLACE BATTERY CABLES IF THEY ARE MELTED HAVE STARTER CHECKED OUT YOU COULD HAVE FAULTY STARTER STILL.

If this link runs from the alternator to the starter then i would say it likely but i belive the connection is to recarge the battery, the link that runs from the alt to starter connects to starter with another cable that runs to battery, so this link is used to charge the battery, heres a wiring diagram to show you. i would say its morelikely that the problem may be a bad alternator or the wiring from alt to starter is shorting. follow the wire (fuseable link) from alternator to starter and check it for shorting onto something, if nothing found then iwould say its the alternator or starter. to make sure which is the problem, when the link pops can you start the car, will starter spin over the engine if the answer is yes then replace the starter but if the starter doesnt spin engine with blown link then replace the starter, here are the wiring diagram to help.

I would guess you have a corroded wire coming off your battery's positive terminal.

You don't have a short, just a bad alternator. Both lights will come on, on nissan's when the alternator is bad. I have been a nissan and infiniti tech for 11 years and that's just how the lights operate.