Slow bleeding of my 3 series bmw car in brake caliper in rear..

Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

The front calipers are closer to the master cylinder so you are bleeding a short brake line.
The rear calipers are farther away so the lines are longer and it requires more brake fluid to flush the air out of them.

Are there two brake fluid reservoirs? And are both full? This would be a split-diagonal brake system-front driver and rear passenger are one brake system. Front passenger and rear driver are the other system. You have the one system working-the front passenger and rear driver side works. You will have to keep bleeding the rear passenger side and the front driver side-always start farthest from the master cylinder, but if that wheel just won't bleed air out, make sure the driver front is working and bleeds good. If all else fails, there are pressure bleeder kits available, I don't know the cost, but they work great. They are also a one man bleeding job, as I understand.

Hi, what you feel is your anti-lock brake actuator pumping the brakes. This is probably due to dirty/dusty or improperly adjusted brake shoes causing the rear brakes to lock. It is also possible that you have a leak in one or both rear brake cylinders. Have your rear brakes checked, cleaned, and adjusted. If you would like to do it yourself, I can provide instructions--just let me know.

jack up the car on level surface. take off all tyre. start to bleed the brake system start from the back. when do the 1st one, bleed the fluid until the reservoir nearly drain. top up brake fluid then bleed until new fluid appear on all calipers. check leaks for the last time and fluid level. done!!

YOU NEED A PISTON COMPRESS TOOL TO PRESS PISTON BACK IN THE BORE WITH THE BLEEDER SCREW OPEN ON THE CALIPER*.CLOSE BLEEDER SCREW JUST BEFORE THE CALIPER PISTON IS PUSHED FULLY INTO CALIPER.THIS WILL ALLOW ROOM FOR NEW BRAKE PADS AND CALIPER FIT OVER THE BRAKE ROTOR.WHEN FINISH.PUTTING BRAKE PADS ON YOU HAVE TO BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM.DONT DRIVE VECHICLE IF YOU CANT GET A GOOD FIRM BRAKES.

Its not air leak, you must bleed air from system. You have to bench bleed the master cylinder, then bleed each caliper starting from the right rear, then left rear, then front right, then front left. If you've already done this, then do it again, you must have air in your lines or they would work. The only other thing could be your rubber lines are bad and swelling(absorbing the hydraulic pressure) but they would have to both be completely mush.

Start from right rear, then, left rear, right front, left front. Fill master cylinder. Have helper sit in car, have helper hold brake pedal down. open bleed screw. fluid and air comes out. close screw. release brake pedal. Continue until no air comes out. Move to next wheel. Keep an eye on master cylinder fluid level after each wheel.

BMW brakes Remove like any disc brakes. No special tools required. Make sure piston is pushed back into caliper. Don?t dangle caliper on hose, rather support with a wire

you'll have to jack the car up and take the wheel off, then take the assembly apart and push the pistons in the calipers back in then put it all back together and pump the brakes until they go either hard or you'll need to bleed them again to release any air from the system