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Re: 1996 2.0l. Engine turns over, but why won't it start?
What do you mean , no fire to coils ? The coils are not throwing any spark ? or no Battery + power to the coils ? If it is the latter ,check the ASD relay in fuse/relay box.
In the process of removing the engine, you will come across a
number of steps which call for the removal of a separate component or
system, such as "disconnect the exhaust system" or "remove the
radiator." In most instances, a detailed removal procedure can be found
elsewhere in this guide. It is virtually impossible to list each
individual wire and hose which must be disconnected, simply because so
many different model and engine combinations have been manufactured.
Careful observation and common sense are the best possible approaches
to any repair procedure. Removal and installation of the engine can be made easier if you follow these basic points:
If you have to drain any of the fluids, use a suitable container.
Always tag any wires or hoses and, if possible, the components they came from before disconnecting them.
Because
there are so many bolts and fasteners involved, store and label the
retainers from components separately in muffin pans, jars or coffee
cans. This will prevent confusion during installation.
After unbolting the transmission or transaxle, always make sure it is properly supported.
If
it is necessary to disconnect the air conditioning system, have this
service performed by a qualified technician using a recovery/recycling
station. If the system does not have to be disconnected, unbolt the
compressor and set it aside.
When unbolting the engine mounts,
always make sure the engine is properly supported. When removing the
engine, make sure that any lifting devices are properly attached to the
engine. It is recommended that if your engine is supplied with lifting
hooks, your lifting apparatus be attached to them.
Lift the engine from its compartment slowly, checking that no hoses, wires or other components are still connected.
After the engine is clear of the compartment, place it on an engine stand or workbench.
After
the engine has been removed, you can perform a partial or full teardown
of the engine using the procedures outlined in this guide.
The
following procedure can be used on all vehicles. Slight variations may
occur due to extra connections, etc., but the basic procedure covers
all models.
Relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
If equipped, remove the engine under cover.
Matchmark
the hood and hinges and remove the hood assembly. Remove the air
cleaner assembly and all adjoining air intake duct work.
Drain the engine coolant into a suitable container, then remove the radiator assembly, coolant reservoir and intercooler.
If equipped with AWD, remove the transaxle and transfer case.
Tag
and detach the following components: accelerator cable, heater hoses,
brake vacuum hose, connection for vacuum hoses, high pressure fuel
line, fuel return line, oxygen sensor connection, coolant temperature
gauge connection, coolant temperature sensor connector, connection for
thermo switch sensor, if equipped with automatic transaxle, the
connection for the idle speed control, motor position sensor connector,
throttle position sensor connector, EGR temperature sensor connection
(California vehicles), fuel injector connectors, power transistor
connector, ignition coil connector, condenser and noise filter
connector, distributor and control harness, connections for the
alternator and oil pressure switch wires.
If equipped, with
A/C, remove the A/C drive belt and the compressor. Leave the A/C lines
attached. Do NOT discharge the system. Wire the compressor aside.
Remove the power steering pump and wire aside.
Remove the exhaust manifold-to-head pipe nuts. Discard the gasket and replace with a new one during installation.
Attach
a hoist to the engine and take up the engine weight. Remove the engine
mount bracket. Remove any torque control brackets (roll stoppers). Note
that some engine mount pieces have arrows on them for proper assembly.
Double check that all cables, hoses, harness connectors, etc., are
disconnected from the engine. Lift the engine slowly from the engine
compartment.
Install
the engine and secure in position. The front lower mount through-bolt
nut should not be tigthened until the full weight of the engine is on
the mount.
Tigthen the engine mount bolts as specified in the engine torque chart, located in this section.
Install the exhaust pipe, power steering pump and A/C compressor.
Checking the tags installed during removal, reconnect all electrical and vacuum connections.
Install
the transaxle to the vehicle and tighten the upper mounting bolts to 65
ft. lbs. (90 Nm). Install the starter assembly and tighten both
mounting bolts to 54-65 ft. lbs. (75-90 Nm).
Install the radiator assembly and intercooler.
Install the air cleaner assembly. Install all control brackets, if not already done.
Fill the engine with the proper amount of engine oil. Connect the negative battery cable.
Refill the cooling system. Start the engine, allow it to reach normal operating temperature. Check for leaks.
Check the ignition timing and adjust, if necessary.
Install the hood making sure to align the matchmarks made during disassembly.
Road test the vehicle and check all functions for proper operation.
the light comes on for emissions reasons.. if the light is flashing then it needs to be taken to a repair staiton right away to avoid emission component damage.. if the light is just on it could be as simple as a loose fuel cap.. the only way to be sure it to have the diagnostic codes read with a tool..
I have a 95 eclipse and had the same problem. Replaced the coil, plugs, wires. I had it taken to 3 garages before I found out. It's a problem with the anti-theft system. I don't have the exact location, but the guy who finally found out the problem said it was under the front bumper. Sorry I can't be more specific, but I know how puzzling the problem is. I spent a good 700 dollars and 4 months on two "I don't know"s and a little under $200 to actually get it fixed.
no back-firing or anything like that. Double check firing order and how about your plugs/in good shape? How old is the plug wiring? Does the Eclipse have cam senors? If so, I would check them.
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on the four stroke right hand ( clockwise ) turning engine the firing order is 1-3-4-2 but there are some exceptions on European model. The firing order is also clockwise set because your engine is right hand turn. For you if you like to see also what I stated you can remove the distributor cap if you know how,and by starting the engine you will see the rotor arm turning clockwise.
when you say crank do you mean-it turns over with the starter but doesn't fire and run on its own-there is a halls effect thingy in the distributor that helps the engine to start-can you roll start it or is it an automatic-cheers Denny
you said you repl dist cap that means you don't have a crank sensor you have electronic ing module. remove your elec ing module have it tested most auto parts stores could test your module, or check your coil at the neg terminal. should have power. if not you lost your primary volt from your batt.your secondary power is coming from your electronic ing module from the module to the pos terminal on the coil, when the eng cranks,from the coil to the dist cap , from the dist cap center to the rotor then out to the plugs,this all happen pervided the timing belt or timing chain is ok. the cumbustion chainber needs 3 things , thats fuel, air, and spark.
Does your engine turn over, just not fire? if it sounds like it wants too start but its not firing, try your distributor. this happened to my car last week actually, went out and bought a new dist. and it is fine now. its a big expense, so try to find one at a junk yard and they say you can take it back if its not that. thats your best bet. hope it helps.
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