HOSE GOES FROM THE RESIVOIR TO THE CLUTCH. BROUGHT THE CAR TO AUTOZONE GUY SAID THERE 2 DIF HOSES THE ONE I NEED CAN BE REPLACED WIH FUEL LINE HOSE N 2 CLAMPS THAT U CRIMP. CAN I USE FUEL LINE HOSE?

then bring it to mechanic to repair hose or fittings

I usually am able to find just about any auto hose at Advance Auto. Harder to find hoses can be made with cut to fit hose for the correct size.

They are two different styles of hose so the one you have pushes in and must use a clip or something to hold it in Take the one you have to the parts store and get one the same

Yes all 92-95 civics have a hydraulic clutch system. it starts at the pedal. Pedal pulls a plunger in the clutch master cylinder which is found bolted through the firewall under the hood on the drivers side. The master cylinders resivoir is bolted to the drivers side strut tower and connected to the master cylinder with a rubber hose. A line from the master cylinder runs along the firewall tirades the passenger side wheel then turns to the front of the car and is connected with a fitting to a rubber hose. The rubber hose runs to your clutch slave cylinder. The slave pushes the clutch arm. Your clutch pedal is staying on the floor because there is no back pressure to push it back up. You have air in your clutch system. First find out why (find leak or just top up clutch master cylinder with brake fluid if no leaks) then bleed your clutch. If your clutch line is rusted there is a coupler mid way in the line on the firewall. Will save you from removing the whole line maby. And there is no need to bench bleed the clutch master cylinder. My guess is your slave cylinder is leaking. It right on the front of the transmission. Pull back the rubber boot over the end of the slave cyl. and check for fluid leaks. The bleed screw is on top of the slave cyl. Find/fix leak, fill resivoir, pump clutch 10 times then HOLD. Open bleeder screw, watch for fluid and air sputtering out or just air. CLOSE valve, release clutch. REPEAT until clutch works keeping resivoir topped up. You may also open bleeder screw and pump clutch to get fluid into the system before you do the bleed process. Keep in mind brake fluid eats paint and is not very nice on your skin or in your eyes so be carefull with it. There may also be an off chance your pedal sticks because the clutch itself is badly broken but it's not really very likely.

You may be able to braze (2) 1/2 in. copper 90 degree water fittings back to back to install as a jumper. Install jumper well ahead of bad hoses. I have never seen a stopped up heater core. Replace any suspect hoses and temp control valves.

AB HAYNES MANUAL MAY HELP YOU, YOU CAN GET THEM ,AT AUTOZONE,ADVANCE AUTO PARTS,NAPA they show a complete tare down and re build

keeping the factory route is not 100% required, just route the hose away from all sharp objects, hot objects and moving parts. Sometimes these things can be a bear to bleed out, pump the clutch pedal slow, pausing 2 to 3 seconds between pumps to allow fluid to get from the resivoir to the master cylinder.

Did you change the fuel filter? If not, try it and see if that works.

Step 1-Determine type of fuel line to be replaced. Rubber hoses will have clamps on both ends that should be loosened with screw driver. Nylon and steel lines will have a ferrule at both ends removed and replaced using proper size line wrench

Step 2-Using proper size line wrench or screwdriver, loosen fittings by turning counter clockwise. Catch fuel remaining in lines in a gasoline safe container.

Step 3-Remove defective fuel line and install the new line or hose opposite of removing. Take care not to strip or cross-thread fittings as this will cause leaks.

Step 4-Dispose of remaining fuel in an OSHA safe container.


hope it helps-