New brakes, axle and ball joint. my car that is a 5 speed in reverse it seems like the brakes are dragging.

I would replace ALL motor & transxale mounts if they are
over 8 years old
I would suspect, as usual, the shops don't remove rust or lube
a thing on brakes,I would do that Take them apart again
Recheck all work that was done
I would drag the brake while on the gas, when it
vibrates, to turn off the trans torque converter clutch
& see if that is an issue.
Could have a bad axle joint
I would in no way trust any shop to have done
a though job of what your saying.
You most likely have worn inner ties rod joints on the
steering rack,something else to check
What about tie rod ends & ball joints & upper strut bearings?

first put truck on jack stands and remove tires then you will need heavy duty impact to remove axle nuts then remove the four bolts that hold wheel bearing in you access them from the back side of rotor on the spindle then remove the brake caliper and bracket you will need a puller to put on the rotor or studs and push against the axle shaft dont forget to unplug speed sensor if equipped after you remove rotor and bearing assembly the axle will slide out allowing you to get to lower ball joint nut remove both nuts and steering rod use ball joint fork and remove spindle use press and remove and reinstall new joints put back in reverse order be very careful with left side axle make sure its clean and hold it up in the center as not to damage seal when going back in because it is bear to replace i hope this helps you allow yourself a good day for this job

Buy the right CV axle. Raise right front of vehicle. Remove wheel. use a lugnut and washers to secure brake rotor so that it is not flopping and trapping rust behind. Remove axle nut. Loosen nuts from outer tie rod end stud and lower ball joint stud almost all the way off, but do not remove them completely. Seperate the studs from knuckles by striking each knuckle with a ball peen hammer. After the tie rod and lower ball joint are seperated from the spindle knuckles, pry down on lower control arm and push end of axle through hub toward transaxle until hub and spindle assembly is free from axle/CV joint. Place drain pan under transmission. Carefully place pry bar between innner CV joint and transmission and pop axle assembly loose. Install new axle in reverse of the dissassembly.

check the axle nut and the wheel bearing for play.the caliper bracket is mounted to the hub.the ball joint moves the top of the hub,but movement in the bearing is more likely the cause.

It's a press-in bearing. If you don't have the tools to press the bearing, you can still save some money. Here's what I did:
- Drain transmission oil,
- Remove front right wheel,
- Remove brake caliper, pads, caliper hanger,
- Remove the wheel speed sensor (even if no ABS),
- Remove the two large strut bolts (100+ lbs ft/lbs of torque),
- Remove the ball joint nut,
- Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle,
- Remove the axle from the transmission using a pry bar.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle, wheel hub and brake rotor removed from the car, and it'll all be ceased together. Bring the whole thing to your favorite mechanic and get him to separate all these parts and to install the new bearing in the steering knuckle. It'll cost about $100.

Now you'll have the axle, steering knuckle with new bearing and hub installed, and the brake rotor. Take these parts home and put the car back together in reverse order.

Seriously consider replacing the axle while you're at it.

The problem is either a bad CV joint or is it possible that the brakes are worn.

You will have to remove it and replace it with a new one. The general steps for doing that is: 1)remove the tire 2)remove the caliper and rotor 3)remove the outer tie rod from the spindle 4)remove the axle nut 5) remove the cv axle 5)remove the nut on the ball joint 6) bang ball joint out and press in a new one. Then reassembly is exactly the reverse as disassembly.

Remove the tire and tighten 2 lugnuts onto the brake rotor. remove the axle nut in center of the brake rotor and drive the axle out of the spindle. If the ball joint is original, you have to grind out the rivets on the lower control arm. Remove and replace the ball joint with the hardware included with the ball joint. Next, pry-unsnap the axle end from the transaxle with a prybay and drive-snap in the new axle shaft into the transaxle. reverse to assemle, align front end and wholla! your done. 1 hour,15 min. $115.00 to do it yourself.

You don't need the special tools that they use in this procedure, you can use a hammer and a block of wood to get the axle out of the hub and you can use a pry bar to get the axle out of the transmisson.



Notice: Care must be exercised to prevent the constant-velocity joints from being over-extended. When either end of the drive axle is disconnected, over-extension of the joint could result in separation of internal components and possible joint failure. Drive axle joints and seals should be protected any time service is performed on or near the drive axles. Failure to observe this can result in interior joint or seal damage and possible joint failure.
Notice: Prior to removal of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during removal.
Removal Procedure

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
2. Remove the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
3. Place shop towels underneath the outer joint to protect from any sharp edges.




4. Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor to prevent the rotor from turning.
5. Remove the drive axle nut (2) and the washer.
6. Remove the lower ball join from the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension. If you remove the right axle, turn the wheel to the left. If you remove the left axle, turn the wheel to the right.
7. Disconnect the wheel speed speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
8. Disconnect the stabilizer link from the lower control arm. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.




9. Use the J 28733-B in order to disengage the axle from the hub and the bearing.
10. Separate the hub and the bearing assembly from the drive axle. Move the strut and the knuckle assembly rearward.




11. Remove the inner joint from the transaxle using J 33008 attached to J 29794 and J 2619-01 for the intermediate shaft, if equipped.

Installation Procedure Notice: Prior to installation of drive axle assembly, cover all sharp edges in the area of the drive axle with shop towels so that the seal is not damaged during installation.
Any time the front halfshaft is removed, the transmission (the halfshaft male and female shank) and the knuckle sealing surfaces should be inspected for debris or corrosion.
If debris or corrosion are present on the sealing surfaces, clean them with a 320 grit cloth or equivalent. Transmission fluid may be used to clean off any of the remaining debris. The surface should be wiped dry, and the halfshaft should be reinstalled free of any debris or corrosion buildup.

1. Install the drive axle (2) into the transaxle (1). Place a non-ferrous drift into the groove on the joint housing and then tap until the drift is seated. Be careful not to damage the axle seal or dislodge the seal garter spring when you install the axle.



Important: Verify that the drive axle is seated by grasping on the inner joint housing and pulling outboard.

2. Install the drive axle (1) into the hub and bearing assembly (2).
3. Install the stabilizer link. Refer to Stabilizer Shaft Link Replacement in Front Suspension.
4. Connect the wheel speed sensor harness. Refer to Wheel Speed Sensor Replacement in Antilock Brake System.
5. Install the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Refer to Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Replacement in Front Suspension.



Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

6. Install the washer and the new drive axle nut (2).
Insert a drift (1) into the caliper and the rotor in order to prevent the rotor from turning.
Tighten
Tighten the drive axle nut to 200 N·m (144 lb ft).

7. Install the tire and the wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
8. Lower the vehicle

Your Accord has what is called "Trapped Rotors". They actually fit behind the hub. The procedure to remove them is not complicated, but it is time consuming.
Here is how I do it:
1) Remove axle retaining nut.
2) Remove brake caliper and bracket.
3) Remove lower ball joint retaining nut and use pickle fork to loosen spindle from lower ball joint.
4) Remove axle from hub.
5) On the back of the spindle, remove four bolts that attach hub/bearing to spindle.
6) Use slide hammer to remove rotor/hub assembly.
7) Remove 4 bolts attaching rotor to hub.
8) While it is a snug fit, the hub bearing does slide through center of rotor to remove it.
Installation is in reverse order.
A bad bearing usually makes a growling noise while driving.