How do i change valve cover

v6 engine not told,
let me guess that.
ok easy v6 means 3.7 L (226 cu in) magnum v6

I have 3.7L in my jeep.
mine is 2010
the service manual covers all this, buy it or rent it?

not told which bank needs offing/ left or right.
well all engine work here, is top down, and what you see in the way must come off
but not told the goal, ??remove the valve cover,you never said that.
just disconnect or remove to get to it( just touch the cover that?)
just use a hand stethoscope.(held to all places there)???????????

the service manual , this page, called rockers covers.
asks LEFT or RIGHT first ,so I toss the coin and land on left drivers side
USA left, is LHD driver. side

1. Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2. Remove the resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Disconnect injector connectors and unclip the injector harness.
4. Route injector harness in front of valve cover.
5. Disconnect the left side breather tube and remove the breather tube.
6. Remove the valve cover mounting bolts.
7. Remove valve cover and gasket.

now right.(called in USA LHD , passenger side)
RIGHT SIDE

1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Remove air cleaner assembly, resonator assembly and air inlet hose.
3. Drain cooling system, below the level of the heater hoses.
4. Remove accessory drive belt.
5. Remove air conditioning compressor retaining bolts and move compressor to the left.(tie it back gently) no hoses OFF !!!
6. Remove heater hoses.
7. Disconnect injector and ignition coil connectors.
8. Disconnect and remove positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) hose.
9. Remove oil fill tube.
10. Unclip injector and ignition coil harness and move away from valve cover.
11. Remove right rear breather tube and filter assembly.
12. Remove valve cover retaining bolts.
13. Remove valve cover and gasket.

this answer is for only removal
to just touch it , is between step 1 and what ever it takes to do you you never told yet.

or use youtube, how to remove cylinder heads, so see all steps
to where you want to be. (less sure)

Attempt to open manually. With the gate open use the remote to close. If the support pistons lose their gas pressure the gate will close automatically but not have the force to open Replace the gas piston on the passenger side.

If something is blocking the sensor will also prohibit the lift gate from opening.

Hope this helps?.

on the tailgate there is 3 screws that covers the handle and the left and right rod for the latch to unlock the tail gate get some WD40 and spray each out side latch they do stick on Chevy alot then try to use the handle and look inside an see if the rod moves right or the clip may be broke at the handle good luck..

No idea without a good look myself but i would hazard a guess that the gasket is adrift somehow when refitting .

Just repaired the same problem on 97 astro. Get in the back and look for the rear handle on the lift gate and remove it. Mine had two cover pieces over two 10mm bolts. Under the handle and handle plate you can access the push rod for the left side latch. Mine snapped back into place with the plastic holder still in place. You can also get a new plastic piece or wire to hold it into place. I think mine was shut to hard over just wiggled out over the years.

will try to help.if it's only the valve cover leaking,i'm guessing they sold you the rubber one that says ne rtv sealant needed. take your back off, try not to break the rubber seal when removing!clean the top of head where gasket goes. clean the valve cover really good!clean the grooves out that the gasket slides into. buy some blue trv glue, apply a thin coat to top of head, let it setup while you apply another thin coat to valve cover, let set 10mins. apply gasket to valve cover making sure to push the gasket into the grooves on valve cover. don't worry about neatness. let the valve cover set on a hard surface with the gasket against the hard flat surface[such as a garage floor,or clean driveway] after10 more minutes install the valve cover,make sure and take your time. place valve cover onto motor,than hand start each bolt to insure thay are going into the prope bolt holes. after you have each bolt hand started, start at center of valve cover snugging the bolts down to motor. do not crank down or apply excessive force when tightening those bolts. you should see some of that blue rtv glue coming out around the valve cover when applying torque to the valve cover bolts. only secure them snug at first. let car set for 15mins. start car and look for leaks around the cover, do not over tighten those bolts but you may need to look for a leak, go to bolt closest to leak and turn it 1/4 at a time until leak stops. but if you do this step by step, you'll not have a leak issue. you may have pinched the gasket when you replaced it. hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com

will try to help, look for a loose or undone vacum line around your intake.[top of motor]make sure the vacum lines are secure in the position they are wupposed to be.[all plugged up and not sucking air.] make sure the air breather is secure and no leaks of air around the breather. make sure the p.c.v. valve is'nt blocked by sludge. it will be a round cylinder type plug in, it's about 1'inch around that plugs into your valve cover on either side of engine. it should just pull up from valve cover with very little force. it will be oil soaked on top and bottom. but, make note' it will unplug from valve cover, if you are looking at the motor from front w/hood open, look at the vale cover on left side of engine at middle of valve cover, you should see it, unplug[pull-up] and install new one. hope this helps! and as always, if you need further assistance please repost your request at fixya.com we will be happy to help!!

It's located just under the driver side door, and then behind the outermost frame bar. The new one will denote which direction to install it. I recommend grabbing some rubber sheathed hose clamps from the store while you're there.

First locate the bleeder valve on the fuel rail.

It's just underneath the plastic cover on the engine, follow the silver rail that runs across the front and goes back on both sides, it's on the right side, just under the left-side blue refrigerant valve cover. Open the cover (black) and be sure to have a rag under and on top of it as you use a screwdriver to release the pressure on it - just push the pin in the valve. Air will come out, then a little gas, so be ready. Replace the cover.

Open your gas cap. Now the pressure is off of both sides.

Use the clamps to close the lines going into it, in and out. Clamp them about 3 or 4 inches from the filter, to leave yourself room to work.

Remove the bolt on the mounting bracket, it will take a socket to get it, as salt and other road juices will have rusted it pretty well since the last time it was changed. Please don't try to use an adjustable wrench, unless you really want to punch the underside of your car.

Factory hose clamps, self explanatory. Vice grips are good for this.

Use the vice grips to gently wrench the hose from the filter. This will take some work, it's on there very tight from the existing pressure in the lines. just don't clamp them so tight that it might tear them. Just hand tight and wiggle back and forth.

When it comes off, gas is going to spill out, be ready. Quickly replace the filter and replace the factory hose clamps, remove yours, and remount it in the bracket.

Close your gas cap!

Start your car a few times to get the pressure back in the lines, and you're all set.

It is located on top of valve cover. It just pulls out and pushes in by hand. If it is good, the valve inside shoud jiggle around. If it does not move freely, it should be replaced.

You can go to autozone.com and register for full free online repair manual with everything you could ever need for your car.

Van has dutch doors in rear; the lift gate electronic mechanism seems fine as it unlatches on the right side, but will not unlatch on left side