Parts diagram for clutch slave cylinder nissan D40

SOURCE: 1992 Nissan Pathfinder SE: replace master/slave clutch cylinders

Removing and replacing is straight forward mechanic work.Here is a gotcha that very few manuals will tell you,but years of experience will teach you.Go ahead and install the clutch slave cylinder on the bellhousing of the trans.The clutch master cylinder needs to be "bench bled" so that as much air as possible is gone from the master cylinder before installed on the vehicle.This requires a helper.Take master cyl. to a bench and set it down while holding the assembly in your hands.Fill the reeservoir with brake fluid.I wear latex or nitrile gloves while i work to keep my hands clean.This helps in sealing off the output fluid port during this procedure.Have your assistant take a phillips head screwdriver and push the piston in,on the master cyl and hold it in the depressed position.Some fluid and air will shoot out the output port.Now take your latex glove clad finger,and press it firmly over the fluid output hole.Now release the screwdriver.Remove finger from hole,and stroke the piston in with the screwdriver and hold it at it's depressed position.Place finger over the hole.Add fluid to the reservoir.Keep repeating until only solid fluid exits the output hole.This is bench bleeding.Now install into vehicle being careful to not get brake fluid on the paint.After installing,on the clutch master cylinder rod...there is a jam nut,either 12 mm or 14 mm.Loosen this nut and back it off.Now,the threaded rod can be spun in,or out,making the rod shorter or longer.this is how you adjust the clutch pedal engagement point,after installation.Back to the clutch master and slave,they obviously need to be bled after installation,with the bleeder valve down on the slave cylinder.Good luck.

SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder

Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
READY?
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.

SOURCE: new master and slave still have no petal pressure or clutch

Was the slave cylinder bled correctly? If that's all set then that would leave the throw-out bearing and/or clutch assembly.

SOURCE: Nissan Terrano II 2.7TDi clutch drop

Hi I had a simular problem with my pedal sticking down it turned out to be a small white clip that had worn were the pedal return spring sits it had chaffed a recess in the white clip and was snagging, the clips are about £3.50 so its worth a look, best way i found was to take the pedal box out and do it dont forget the bolt above the pedal you can reach it with a socket, the other two hold the master cylinder on.
Phill

SOURCE: Clutch won't release on 92 Nissan P/U. Changed

If the vehicle has been standing for some time (6 months or more) without use, the clutch plate facings may be 'stuck' to the flywheel and pressure plate surface.
To check/clear this problem:-
(with the engine not running!)
hold clutch pedal down - then from under vehicle, find an opening in the clutch bellhousing (such as a water drain slot) where you can see/access the edge of the clutch plate (sandwiched between the pressure plate and flywheel).
Use a screwdriver blade (or similar tool) to prise clutch plate free from flywheel face (only small movement is required).
If the above is not the cause of your problem, 1) the clutch throwout mechanism should be examined for problems,
2) the pressure plate is faulty- may need to be replaced.