2014 ford fusion engine wont crank after wreck

You may need to reset the computer (Engine Control Module or ECM) in the 2014 Ford Fusion if you are experiencing performance problems, have recently performed maintenance, or are trying to clear fault codes. Here's how you can do it: Note: Resetting the ECM will erase any stored fault codes and variable learning data, and may affect your vehicle's performance unless it relearns optimal settings. If you're not experiencing any problems, it's probably best to avoid resetting the ECM. How to Disconnect the Battery: Disconnect the negative terminal: Locate the negative (black) battery terminal. Use a wrench to loosen and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Make sure it is safely away from the battery. Wait: Leave the terminal open for about 15-30 minutes. This can remove any residual energy from the vehicle's electrical system, restoring the ECM to normal operation. Reconnect the terminals: Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten it. Reset: Start the vehicle and operate for a few minutes. Take a short test drive with different driving conditions to allow the ECM to relearn its settings. OBD-II Scanner Procedure: 1.1. Get an OBD-II scanner: Buy or borrow an OBD-II scanner. Make sure it matches your 2014 Ford Fusion. Look for an OBD-II port: The OBD-II port is usually located under the dashboard, near the driver's seat. Insert the OBD-II scanner into the port. Turn the ignition: Without starting the engine, set the ignition key to the "On" position. Accessing the ECM: Follow the scanner instructions to access the ECM reset function. This can be labeled "Clear Codes", "Reset ECM," or similar terms. Reset: Use the scanner to initiate the ECM reset. This will clear any stored error codes and reset the ECM

ignition ripped out ??? was it repaired/replaced start with that as a starting point for problem ---have truck scanned for any trouble codes

Computr too..cause the othr one wont recognize engine

Did you check for an inertia switch. Most vehicles have an inertia switch installed in the fuel pump circuit that cuts off the fuel pump when involved in an accident.

I assume you have made sure the fans actually do turn and aren't seized?
is the water pump working? how many miles has it done? it may have a wrecked impeller and require changing.
It could still be a wiring issue, check for volts and continuity to earth.

No relay, does your truck have running lights across the hood too? Have you ever wrecked the vehicle? It sounds like a broken wire somewhere, or your switch could be bad. The main light switch that works the headlights, parking and tail lights have three different circuits inside it to work the lights. You can have headlights and tail lights but no parking. Electrical issues can be a pain do you have a good mechanic you can take it too or do you own a good multimeter or test light?

if the relay is clicking when you push the horn button then i would say there is a problem with the horn, if you can get to the horn tap on it with a small hammer or unplug the wire and test it with a test lite

Fords are notorious for a bad fuel pump relay. But first does the engine crank ? If the engine cranks it sounds like the fuel pump relay fluttering. Could be bad relay or a famous ford wiring problem. Many of these cars have wiring across the front bumper where it bolts on and if the car was ever wrecked these wires are cut into only to corrode and break later on down the road.

You know where the problem is...you need to change the sensor.

I JUST SPENT A WEEKEND SOLVING THE ISSUES THAT SEEM TO BE THE SAME AS YOURS. FIRST THE PROCESS OF THIS MODEL IS THAT WHEN THE KEY IS PUT IN THE RUN POSITION, THE FUEL PUMPS ACTIVATE AND ONLY FILL UP THEMSELVES. WHEN THE TRUCK ENGINE IS CRANKED, THE OIL PRESSURE ACTIVATES THE SENDING UNIT AND IT ACTUALLY TELLS THE FUEL PUMPS TO KEEP PUMPING WHILE THE ENGINE KEEPS TURNING OR RUNNING. IT IS A SAFETY ISSUE, AS IN A WRECK, THE ENGINE DIES, AND THEREFORE THE FUEL TO THE ENGINE IS STOPPED, AS A FIX, TRY PRIMING THE CARB, AND SEE IF IT RUNS BRIEFLY. YOU WILL ELIMINATE ALOT OF EXTERRANEOUS ELECTRICAL ISSUES IF IT RUNS. NEXT, CHECK CONTINUITY AT THE FUEL PUMP RELAY. IT IS LOCATED UNDER A PLASTIC COVER ON THE FIREWALL TO THE RIGHT OF THE BRAKE BOOSTER PUMP. MINE HAS 5 WIRES GOING TO IT. I HAD TO UNSCREW THE COVER TO ACCESS THE HIDDEN SNAP THAT HOLDS IT IN PLACE. HAVE SOMEONE CRANK THE ENGINE AND FEEL IF THE RELAY ENERGIZES. IF IT DOESN'T, AND THIS IS WHAT WAS WRONG WITH MINE, YOU WILL NEED TO FIND AND REPLACE THE OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT WITH 2 WIRES. THERE ARE 2 WIRES THAT WILL LEAD YOU TO THE OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT FROM THE RELAY. THERE ARE 2 SENDING UNITS AND THEY ARE LOCATED AT THE REAR OF THE EXHAUST MANIFOLD, BEHIND THE CARB. THERE IS A BIG ONE, WITH ONE WIRE, WHICH IS THE OIL PRESSURE SENDING UNIT FOR THE GUAGES, BUT BELOW THAT IS ANOTHER SMALLER SENDING UNIT THAT HAS 2 WIRES GOING TO IT. IT CLOSES WHEN THE ENGINE TURNS OVER AND ACTUALLY TELLS THE FUEL PUMPS TO KEEP PUMPING GAS. SEE IF THIS WORKS. THE FUEL PUMP RELAY WAS 15 DOLLARS AND THE OIL SENDING UNIT WAS 16. SPENDING ALL WEEKEND WITH THE WIRING SCHEMATICS AND TRACING ALL OF THAT STUFF-----------PRICELESS.