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which engine,? the have up to 3 choices.
rih?
what are the full symptoms,
did you do the full listed 60k mile tune up on car?
sparkplugs,wire, cap rotor/filters? no engine runs right with bad spark
unless it's a diesel.
starts good
runs good or bad hot or cold engine
idle at 800 RPM hot?
stalls> when hot and cold engine
lost of power
bogging
misfire,
learchs>
only stalls , but runs perfect even up hills, at wide open throttle.
fresh gas, or 1 year old?fuel.
can your fast right foot , save the stall, and easily?
ok stalls 101.
1; lost 12vdc to EFI system.
2: lost engine compression.
3: lost spark.
4: lost fueling or floods
there is a simple test for each.
do you want more guesses, or how to do tests.
can do both, but my guessing fails 99 /100 times.
tune it up
do the right foot test. those are always first. on stalls.
always.
electrical power, as in dim lights
or engine power, like you can go up a hill fast wide open throttle
is it just quick loss of engine power or constant.
hot engine cold engine or both.?
stalls come on may ways.
1: lost DC electrical power lost to EFI system.
2: lost compresson, fails hot?
3: lost spark , try a 60k mile tuneup now, if skippped, they are critical.
4: bad fueling
there are simple tests for each failure path./
do you want to, do you have tools, ???? or just want guessing../?????
ok , i will guess, warning all of mine are wrong.
1: the Fuel pump regulator is bad stuck wide open and fuel pressures
is 1/2 spec at 15psi, car is gutless all the time.
one down 49 to go..
what engine, there are 2, 2.5L and 4.0, I have both here.(wranglers)
can be 50 things , but in pure physics far less.
1:lost 12vdc electrical power, you see lamps and things dim out....
2: loses engine compression badly hot, one or more cylinder (a $20 gage finds it)
3: bad spark, caused by not doing tuneups at 60k miles.
and timing, test. for spark at each plug and check timing after a tune up we do that. full 60k. not just spark plugs.
4: bad fueling. this can be a huge list of possibles.
a: bad sensors.
b: low fuel pressure, fuel starvation ($20 tool to test)
c: too high pressure , engine floods, spark tips, soaked in raw fuel.
d; bad injectors (clogged, leaking or dead) $20 tool to test.
there are tests. for each class of failure. 1 to 4.
do you want to guess, or test. its your choice .
buy tools or go broke guessing.
ok slow down, it stalls, that is all we need, no need guess. and tune up don, but you skipped the fuel filter? and air filter,?
STALLS 101. 1: lost 12vdc to EFI system. lost elect. power. easy to test , easy to see. you can attach a DMM set to 12v at the IGN output wire. and see if it drops to zero as engine dies. sure can.
2: you could , check for spark at death, got spark and work that path if spark fails. 3: lost fueling, (sparks soaked in fuel x 4? ) then its flooding if dry spark tips x4 then lost fueling , so try test fuel.
you failed to say, is this a hard fail , i t dont run now. or is always random... just a lil hint. assuming power is hot at all EFI fuses. then fails only 3 ways, 1: lost compression hot (if solid lifters, lash never set) 2: lost spark' 3: lost fuel or flooding.
if flooding use WOT, in this super secret mode works, Wide open throttle cranking, clears floods. (ecu cuts all fuel in this mode)
ok and XL 7 but what engine options. gas, diesel, 2L , 2.5L? what? and most important , and never ever 1 time stated on this forum what country. leaping?
im not sure what you are saying. it runs ok cold, and as it warms , the engine. it stalls.? and what does same thing mean.? my guess, it starts fine then stalls; hot. but can you save the stall?
stalling is complex. can be many systems in the car. but can be broken down to : Ever did the 60k mile tune up,ever? if not why not. never skip 60k\'s or the motor will run like garbage.
1: lost electrical power. to EFI . 2: bad engine, in that when it gets hot , it loses compression. 3: lost park. 1 or more cylinders, 4 or 6 you never said. 4: bad injection. 1 or 6 of them, flooding or starving. 5: bad fuel. 6:EGR sticking , usually this happens just before a stop sign. 7: if the stall was a bog and the fast right foot saved the stall, easy the ISC is sticking closed.
Sounds like the auto choke is sticking on or not working try taking yhe air intake parts ofvthe throttle body and spray inside and out cleaning it as best you can brake abd clutch fluid is the same a good clean could work as its like us gets tyred with old age lol but if that doesent work you will have to get it tuned up somewhere
I'd check fuel line pressure,,Fuel pumps go in strange ways
and have fooled lots of people, make sure you know what the correct pressure is as it vary's from model to model,I had a Cadilac that blew me away as I thought it was ok only to find it did have wrong pressure,,replaced and runs good after that,,also if you have lots of miles on this car it could be catalatyic converter is plugging up,,notice the exhust output see if it is coming out both tailpipes ok
From Wendell
I had a 1990 Cutlass that did the same thing. It would turn over but not start when it got hot too or just cut out on me right on the road. I had it in the shop 2x's , thought it was fixed and got it out of the shop only to have it die later that night in the pitch dark. I had it towed back to the shop , they let it run , hoping it would cut out and it did. It was the ignition.. when it would overheat it would just shut off the car ... you couldn't start it peroid! Like you said 20 to 30 minutes later when it cooled down the car would start back up just fine ... then you'd drive it , it would heat back up, the car wouldn't start again for another 20 to 30 minutes !
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