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Did it come off because the lug nuts broke off or came loose, or did the hub bearing come apart and cause the wheel, rotor, and brake caliper to come off? If the just the lug nuts just came off and the threads are still ok and there is no damage to the wheel holes put the tire back on with one lug nut from each of the other tires, or use your spare if there is wheel damage. If the wheel studs are damaged and you can get new ones, have them replaced. If the hub brng came apart and the axle (4x4) is ok the brng assembly will need along with all damaged parts. This is a common problem with dodge pu.
If the wheel nuts cannot be tightened properly, then yes, this could result in pulsating at the rear end. Tighten lug nuts and recheck. Also this may be caused by an abnormal spare tyre. Many spare tyres are not put into use and can become distorted or hardened over time. There is a date on the sidewall of all tyres, and no tyres are recommended for use by vehicle manufacturers over six years. http://www.lets-getaway.com/tyre-markings.htm
Causes are the mounting surface of the the rotor or drum not clean when wheel was installed, wheel bent, suspension damaged, wheels not torques down correctly or left loose.
It is not recommended to drive it like that. It's not too bad to replace but it depends on your level of mechanical skill, You need to remove the brake caliper and disc and then you can simply knock the remains of the broken stud out with a hammer and punch, To fit the new one insert the stud and then put a large nut over the thread, then fit the lug nut and tighten it to pull the stud into the hub, then simply remove the lug nut and put it all back together.
1. Loosen the wheel lug nuts. Raise the front of the vehicle and support it with jack stands.
2. Hold the tie rod end with vice grips or a pipe wrench and loosen the jamb nut (the nut at the inner end of the tie rod).
3. At the other end of the tie rod remove the cotter pin and remove the castle nut.
4. The tie rod end will come out by turning counter clockwise. Before turning it grip the inner tie rod with pliers (the part on the other side of the jamb nut) so that it doesn't turn. Count exactly how many turns it takes to remove the tie rod end.
5. Turn the new tie rod end in exactly the same number of turns that were required to remove the old one. Tighten the jamb nut up against the new part.
6. Re-install the castle nut and replace the cotter pin with a new one.
7. Re-install the wheel and lug nuts. Re-torqe them with the vehicle back on the ground.
8. It is a good idea to replace both tie rod ends at the same time and to get a front end alignment afterwards.
I hope this helps.
2 missing lug nuts, especially if they are side by side, could cause some wobble while driving. I would not recomend driving with missing Lugs. The stress you put on the remaining 3 could end up being to great, and the tire could end up falling off the car while driving.
As far as what damage could be caused by driving with missing lugs goes....
Anyting in the suspension from the ball joints, to the hub & bearings, axel, tie riods, just about anything down there is not suposed to be move or jiggled in the fashion that it is being moved.
Get the new lug nuts on immeadiatly, take it for a drive, and come back and let me know how it feels. Once you have the lugs on and we can eliminate that as a possible reason for the wobble, we can go from there....
CHANGING BRAKE PADS AND ROTORS Changing the brake pads is pretty easy, after you remove the tire locate the two large bolts on the back side of the caliper i think they are 13/16 heads. remove these two bolts. after the bolts are out use a pry bar to work the caliper straight up off the rotor, slide the pads out of the caliper and compress the piston in the caliper, this can be done with a large c-clamp if you dont have a piston compressor (use the old brake pad as a buffer so you dont damage the piston). 4x2 remove the dust cap in the center of the hub use a pair of dikes to straighten and remove the cotter pin thats locks the castle nut in place then remove the castle nut (can be done with channellocks if you dont have large enough socket) slide the hub off the spindle careful not to drop the bearing and washer on the ground. *** put the lug nuts back on the studs up side down and flush them to the end of the stud if you still hve the stock open lug nuts if not then just be sure to hit the studs square so you dont damage the threads. place the hub on hard solid ground rotor side down and knock the studs out with a fairly good size hammer. reverse process to assemble 4x4 this is a little more difficult than 4x2 you will need some specialty tools (torqs, picks, snap ring pliers, and a 2 3/4 inch rounded hex socket) these instructions are for a stock ford automatic hub. remove the outer hub (three small torqs bolts). use a small to medium straight screwdriver to remove the first locking ring (inside lock) slide the inner hub assembly out of the hub. remove the outside snap ring from the axle shaft slide the three washers of of the shaft keeping them in order. there will be a small half circle keeper on the large nut remove this with a pick use the 2 3/4 socket to remove the hub nut slide the hub off the spindle careful not to drop the bearing and washer on the ground then follow the 4x2 instructions.
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