Car just stopped when idling

Power steering pump , alternator , A/C compressor all turn freely ? Nothing locked up ?

ck belt make sure tight if so i say pump

Causes Causes may include: Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear Misalignment of timing belt/chain Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken Bad crank sensor Bad cam sensor Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer A mis-built or mis-timed engine A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees.

The Ford Escort ZX2, the 2.0 liter is a interference engine,The valve and the piston kissed each other as they met with a broken timing belt,Just to let you know a cam position sensor does not create rough idle, it can stall the engine at a stop sign,but the solution is a valve job, and who ever put the timing belt on after the job should have done a cylinder effeciency test.

Could be cam or crank sensor starting to act up.

its either the alternator has give out. or a loose or broken belt. if belt is ok and tight, then at battery there should be at least 13 volts when engine is off. when running, at battery should read 14 to 14.2 volts. if lower than 14 volts while running, replace or rebuild alternator. have a good day !!

map sincer check that if shorted to low or high it will make it do that check your throttle return spring it may be broken or out of ajustment

You may have an ignition, fuel delivery or compression problem.
1. Check for spark first. If there's no spark, you may have a failed ignition module, ignition pickup, ignition coil or open in the ignition circuit (bad ignition switch or neutral safety switch).
2. If you have spark, check for fuel. On carbureted engines, remove the air cleaner, hold the choke open, look down the carburetor throat and work the throttle linkage. If you don't see any fuel squirting into the carburetor, the problem may be a stuck needle inlet valve in the carburetor, a bad fuel pump, a plugged fuel filter, a plugged or frozen fuel line, an obstructed fuel tank pickup screen, or no fuel (or water contaminated fuel) in your tank.
3. If you have spark and fuel, your timing chain or belt may have broken or slipped. If your engine has a distributor, remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor turns when the engine is cranked. No movement would tell you the timing belt or chain (or possibly the cam itself) is broken. Another alternative is to remove the valve cover to see if the valves are opening and closing. This too will show you if the cam drive or cam is broken.
If a cam belt or chain has "slipped a tooth," throwing valve timing off, the valves will still open and close, and the rotor inside the distributor will still turn. But the engine won't develop enough compression to start. A compression check can help you find this kind of problem.

Hello, did you try changing your coil pack

Hi
Yes, very true, I should have thought that it would have been sensible procedure, to renew a contaminated fan belt.

I also believe that the cam belt cover should have been removed, to inspect the cam belt, for oil contamination at that time too.
As an oil saturated cam belt would be more consistent to a failure, than a fan belt snapping and getting behind the cover, causing cam belt failure !

You have to seek an appointment with the Dealer Manager, and voice you dissatisfaction with there service, and that the resulting costs would not have been necessary, had my first 2 options above been carried out.
As usual, this smell of shoddy main Dealer Servicing.

By the way, what have they told you the estimated damage is to the engine ?
Normally it would only be a couple of bent valves, requiring, the cylinder head removal, fit new valves, cam belt, fan belt,etc, and reassemble, change oil & filter, & test coolant strength.

Good Luck !

A FixYa rating would be apreciated please !

John.