Car will not crank will crank if I jump relay. But not start. Gauges on dash don't work. Warning lights come on one at a time. Never did that before

Do the gauges and warning lights work with key on? If not, check fusible links, AM1 for ignition key power. If the gauges/warning lights work, the key switch has power, so you can follow it to the starter solenoid. The start wire out of the ignition switch is a black/white wire, this is the hot wire to the solenoid, and only has power when key is held in start. With automatics, there is only one switch-a neutral start switch- between the ignition switch and the solenoid on the starter .

With a manual transmission, the black-white start wire goes to both a starter relay and a clutch start switch (on the clutch pedal), those two work together to send the power on to the starter solenoid. So, no crank, good battery, power to key, follow the black/white wire, the start relay and the clutch switch, to the starter solenoid- a hot wire there turns the starter motor on.

Where did you buy the alternator? Charge the battery and have them both tested.

try hold up the key while starting, shot in the dark. if it startes remove extra items off key ring

There is a fuse for the warning lights and gauges. Yes, you checked the fuses and relays, but you need to check if power is there at the fuse, with the key in the on position.

Here's how turning the key to on causes the warning lights and gauges to turn on: From your ignition switch the on or run wire out of it will have power with key on. The run wire will also send power to the part of the fuse panel that is of the category "hot in run or on", where your fuse for the dash warn. lts. & gauges is- it may be labeled "meter" or "gauges" or like that. From the fuse, a hot wire goes into the harness for the instrument cluster-for the warning lights and gauges. The wire, like the fuse, is only hot in on or run.

The ignition's run wire may splice with a direct connection to some fuses, or more likely there may be an "ignition relay" that powers the "hot in run or on" fuses, and the run wire is used to turn the relay on. You could look for this relay just above or around the fuse panel under the dash. But the easiest place to start is to see if the fuse for the gauges has power to it with the key in on. If it does, the problem is up further on at the cluster connection or a ground for the gauges and cluster. If the fuse has no power available, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. That could be a faulty ignition relay.

try all the autoshutoff circuits.. relay .. fuel pump relay...ignition relay etc.. its process of elimination now..then when all else fails check basic fluid levels..and timing may have jumped out..

A bad connection could be it, possibly a failing relay. One would have to pull some paneling off, possibly the steering wheel covers, to start looking for the problem.
Coming out of the ignition switch will be a start wire, an accessory wire, and a run wire. The run wire is for both the ignition system and for the gauges and warning lights. One splice of this run wire will go to the fuse panel, to power up those fuses that are termed "hot in run or accessory". Or sometimes, the run wire energizes a relay that sends power to the fuse panel. One of these fuses will be for the gauges and warning lights in the dash.
If you have a test light or voltmeter, you could check the fuse terminals for power at those times when the gauges are not working. If the fuse terminal shows no power when the key is on, then the problem is between the ignition switch and the fuse panel. This could be a relay that is not working- probably called an ignition relay-and it may be right around the fuse panel. If the fuse terminals do have power when key is on, but gauges are not working, the problem is between the fuse panel and the dash-will probably need to pull the dash cluster out to look further-possibly the electrical connector or connections at the cluster. If you wiggle the wiring around the fuse panel and the ignition switch and see the gauges move (key on), then you are wiggling a bad connection and can find and fix it.

You mean by gadgets, warning lights and gauges? That would be from the ignition switch's run wire, the wire from the on position. This wire sends voltage to the ignition system, and to the dash for the warning lights and gauges-but not directly to the dash-the signal would reach the dash after being routed through the fuse panel to a fuse for the dash gauges and warning lamps. You need to check if that fuse is good.
Recall seeing any wiring diagram? The fuses are labeled either "hot at all times" or "hot in run or start". The fuses labeled hot in run or start are only sent power when the key is on, so power for those fuses are routed through, or turned on by the key being on. Depending on the car and its wiring set up, many will have relays that are turned on by the run wire, and power is then sent from the relay to that circuit's fuse in the fuse panel. This relay may be called the ignition relay. Or your car may have a different relay to send power from the run wire to the fuse panel.
The only way to figure yours out is to see a wiring diagram for it. Then you will see how power is sent from the ignition switch to the dash.
Wiring diagrams are almost always found in repair manuals. Check if your library has a manual for your car. Most libraries have quite a few repair manuals. Or parts stores sell repair manuals too, for about $25. Try to find a Haynes repair manual for your car. The other popular repair manual is from Chilton. My preference is Haynes, just my preference. I been burned by Chilton manuals sooo many times-incomplete wiring diagrams, incorrect information, incomplete information. Haynes are not perfect by any means, you want perfection-spend big bucks for a factory service manual ! In general, Haynes is more complete than Chilton.
OK, enough venting. If you have a test light, check for power at the fuse for the dash (may be labeled "gauges" or "instr pnl", something like that) with the key on. If it has power with key on, wire from the fuse goes to the dash. If that fuse has no power to it with key on, power has been lost between the ignition switch and that fuse-now you definitely need a wiring diagram to find the problem.

check for power at the fuel pump if no power check relay's fuses ect If you have power at the pump then most likely bad fuel pump.And yes they do quit just like that

The first thing you can do it to CHECK THE TERMINALS OF THE BATTERY< CHECK THE GROUDN CONNECTIONS TO THE CHASSIS.
If this seems corroded then clean and reset the terminals.
Secondly check the ECU, if the car seems to experience problems in the engine you must check the errror codes.
Finally the fuse box, relay box and the dash cluster must be checked for loose connection.

you need to check all fuses one by one for loose contact.leave the igtion key to on position and try to tap the fuse box, shake wires from battery going to inside the car.A testlight is effective in diagnosting this trouble.Probing the wires on the ignition switch while turning on the key.Need somebody to observe the cluster while performing the troubleshooting.