Why won't driver side rear power window go up?

Did you check for battery voltage at the switch , with a volt meter before you replaced the main driver door switch ? Maybe you'll want to take this to pro ,instead of just replacing parts !
Symptom Chart Condition Possible Sources Action

• No communication with the smart junction box (SJB)

• Circuitry
• SJB

• REFER to Section 419-10 .

• A single power window is inoperative - driver front power window is inoperative/does not operate correctly

• Power window motor regulator and motor
• Circuitry
• Window control switch
• Smart junction box (SJB)

• Go To Pinpoint Test A .

• A single power window is inoperative - passenger front, left rear or right rear

• Power window motor regulator and motor
• Circuitry
• Window control switch

• Go To Pinpoint Test B .

• All power windows are inoperative

• Smart junction box (SJB) fuse 30 (10A)
• SJB circuit breaker 10 (30A)
• Circuitry
• Delayed accessory relay
• Battery saver relay
• Driver window control switch
• SJB

• Go To

PINPOINT TEST C: ALL POWER WINDOWS ARE INOPERATIVE Test Step Result / Action to Take C1 CHECK FOR CORRECT OPERATION OF THE INTERIOR LIGHTS

• Turn on the interior lights.
• Do the interior lights operate normally?

Yes
GO to C2 .

No
To continue diagnosis, REFER to Section 417-02 . C2 CHECK CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK) FOR VOLTAGE TO THE DRIVER WINDOW CONTROL SWITCH

• Disconnect: Driver Window Control Switch C504b.
• Key in ON position.
• Measure the voltage between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and ground.
  >
• Is the voltage greater than 10 volts?

Yes
GO to C4 .

No
GO to C3 . C3 CHECK CIRCUIT 400 (LB/BK) FOR AN OPEN OR SHORT TO GROUND

• Key in OFF position.
• Disconnect: SJB C2280c.
• Measure the resistance between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and the SJB C2280c pin 17, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side; and between the driver window control switch C504b pin 4, circuit 400 (LB/BK), harness side and ground.
  >
• Is the resistance less than 5 ohms between the driver window control switch and the SJB; and greater than 10,000 ohms between the driver window control switch and ground?

Yes
Go To Pinpoint Test H

No
REPAIR the circuit. TEST the system for normal operation.

Bad Switch? Bad motor? Get a volt ohm meter out and test for power to and thru the switch. Pull the door panel and check the power and ground to the window motor

Would seem your into the inner doors & have a partial
grasp on things

Now you fix all door windows one shot

#1 Test all switches,ohm meter unplugged or volt meter with power
#2 Test all motors with battery voltage direct -- DC motor will run either direction-- can't hook up wrong
#3 Window Regulators -you know about them (Unless they are broken-you said they are tight)
#4 Do you have good ground side wiring & battery voltage at all
switches & motors
#5 Last resort--unhook the cables & work on freeing up the
glass & window guides etc then you will have found out if the
regulators are the issue

most of the time driver side windows switch be the first switch to wear out.try removing window switch work switch while moving the wires see if window try to go up, if yes, window switch broken.if switch not broken check see if power going to window motor when you work the switch you need a test light or digital volt meter to check to see if power going to power window motor.if power going to power window motor, either window binding or power window motor faulty. make sure driver side window master switch not locked out.if no make sure all the other power windows work if not you have blowed fuse.

take the inner door panel off, then jumper 12 volts to the motor connection, ( the one leading to the motor once disconnected ) to see if the motor even still works, if you hook the wires up backwards, no problem, Just reverse them to make it travel the other direction. if you find that the motor to the window works, back track to the switch, make sure its getting power with a meter or 12 volts test light, if it is,, push the switch to make sure its crossing through the switch supplying 12 volts to both sides, ( these switches are a normal pass through 12 volt switch, the only difference is the last 2 wires leading to the door side, flip flop, which makes the window go up or down) if you have voltage to and through the switch,, your window should work, ( assuming the motor checked out ok ) if wither of these 2 things doesn't check out good, replace them,, ( motor or switch) if you find that the switch isn't getting power, trace it back towards the drivers side switches,, and check the window switch lock, if thats shorted none of the other windows will work, and it would need to be replaced,

these should be the correct wire colors
light blue wire and a white wire drivers side
brown/white wire and puple white passanger side
meter these wires at the drivers side switch these wires should meter +12 volts in on direction either up or down and -12 volts in the other direction either up or down
Example: put the red probe on the light blue wire and the black probe on the white wire throw the switch in the up direction you shpuld get a reading of +12 volts and if you throw the switch in the down position you should get -12 volts. if the switch is in the nuteral position it wont give out voltage.
if voltage is not present in when you flip the switch then the switch is bad and you will need to replace it.
if voltage is present your motor or motors transmission is bad. sometimes the motor is connected to the transmission and when swaping out the motor you have to swap out the transmission too. most of the times you can seperate these two.
the reason you window will go down and not up might be beacuse the wieght of the window pulls the window down but the transmission is broken and the motor alone cannot lift the window up.
hope this helps.

well you can try "jumping" the correct wire to see if window got up or down... this will tell u if switch is bad... but I would just go but a new master switch... try that before you cause more damage..

Reverse your test light connector, connect it to power so you can check for ground at window motor, flip switch up or down should have ground at both wire's while flipping switch to up or down, more then likely your not going to have ground at the up position, do same test at harness before passenger door switch if no ground master switch bad.

you can test the voltage that comes out of the switch, if no voltage, then switch is bad. If there is 12 volts coming out then the motor is bad or dirty.

had same problem with 94. in the door jam there is a rubber boot that holds all the wires for your power windows and locks and stuff. remove the boot and check each of the wires in that harness to make sure they are not broke. that's what was wrong with mine on both doors. the wires break with repeated door openings.