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this is a major piece of mechanical work as you seem to be aware, i would suggest if you feel confident to do it yourself get a workshop manual that will give a step by step guide and the correct torques etc , you wont know if the head needs recon until its off but if it has'nt been overheated time and time again it should be fine , also depending on mileage as to wether the valves need regrinding and new seals , i would do this as well while the head is off as is best practice to carry out further maintenance when the oppourtunity is there also change the timing belt and tensionor ,you can probably hire the correct tools needed as buying would cost quite a bit to be used only once so there is a lot to consider so i wish you good luck and keep me up to date please.Also bear in mind the age and condition of vehicle against cost of repair might be better to trade in keeping the head problem to yourself!
recheck the valve timing as it appears that you may be a tooth out on the chain and you have an inlet valve not quite closed . The tapping may be the piston just touching the valve head from the wrong timing
Head gasket is not sealing water jacket. Coolant is seeping into the push rod hole down to the lifter. Somthing went wrong with the gasket when setting head onto block. Did you ding the gasket?.OR it's possible you got the wrong gasket. You might just get lucky if you try torquing the head bolts again. Or is it possible one of the bolts did not get torqued? One last thought, any chance the head was warped and you did not get it machined? Either way, if re torquing the head bolts does not fix it, you will have to pull the head, look real close at the gasket, probably will need to get a new gasket, check the head for trueness (flat mating surface),use a quality gasket sealer on both side of it, replace all... Yea, simple right? [Not.] Good luck with it.
Really, really, sorry to suggest that the head gasket may not have oil passages lined up. Always lay the oil gasket over the new gasket to see if each and every hole is punched out and lines up to the old gasket.
Also, each lifter needs to go back to its original spot. The Cam lobes are worn for that lifter and a mismatch can be possible. A mismatch could mean extra play in a badly worn lifter face mated to a badly worn Cam lobe.
If that is what you did then get new or rebuilt lifters. Check out Compcams.com for a detailed description of each engine scheme. Your engine may have a thrust plate for the lifters and it may be incorrectly installed creating noise.
it could probably use new head gaskets anyway, so replace those and the lifters while you are at it. before spending about a thousand on it however, try some marvel mystery oil!
Its the head gasket.Get it changed and have the head checked for cracks and get the head skimmed has it may have warped.All alloy heads warp when being removed so have it skimmed before replacing.
I wouldnt recommend it. It is not just adding a piece of hardware. Head gaskets were not designed for the increased pressures. The computer will not change the fuel mix. You will need electronic protection for the excessive heat of the turbo when you turn car off, namely, a water pump has to continue circulating after you turn the car off. How would you accomplish that? In short, you will gain 30% added free power, but engine reliability will be out of the window.
The cats use hydraulic lifters. Just before your next oil change, or when you are down about a litre of oil, put a litre of transmission fluid (Dextron II) into the engine and drive it about 2to 300 miles and then change the oil and filter. You should hear the valve train noise dissappear within the 1st 20 or 30 miles.
Do not overfill!!!!!
This is assuming you have a plugged hydraulic lifter(s). If you have a worn cam or worn valve train, you need to remove the heads (both) and send them to a machine shop that does heads and re-install...new head gaskets, valve cover gaskets as well as any worn cams. valves etc....
Car really has to be worth it. At this point, if you love Cateras (I have 2 2001's), I would sell it the way it is and get a 00' or an 01'.
A hydraulic lifter can internally fail and not open and close the valve it serves as fully as it should. If a lifter is not going up and down at all, then the lifter and the camshaft have failed. That is serious and expensive to repair. Either condition will change the quality of the fuel charge in that cylinder and drastically affect the way the engine runs. A sticking lifter can sometimes be corrected by adding marvel oil to the engine oil. Otherwise it needs to be replaced. If original overheat was severe, don't forget to change the trans fluid...Trans is cooled by radiator and will change chemically when overheated, causing later damage to trans. Consult with the shop that did the work for you and get their opinion as to what needs to be done to correct the problem.
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