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Had Cambelt & waterpump changed on my 55 plate citreon C4 1.4 vt. within 2weeks, a metal rattling noise occurred,the car cut out & lost all its oil.
Garage who completed the works, now have the car again, initial diagnosis "may be pulley", and today, "we think pistons & valves are damaged - new engine". is there a possiblity that the pulleys weren't aligned when initial works done, as they will not accept any responsibilty..
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It can be a number of issues if the noise is engine related but have the oil pressure checked with an external oil pressure gauge. Most mechanics will have them. I would also change the oil and oil filter immediately and ensure you ONLY use the correct oil as specified by the manufacturer for that engine. (Using an incorrect formulation or the wrong grade will cause engine issues).
I suspect the engine is losing oil pressure and oil flow at low RPM and you are getting metal to metal contact on the top end of the engine when this happens as the low pressure is producing a lack lubrication to the upper end of the engine. At higher RPM the oil pressure increases as does the oil flow and the noisy internals are getting sufficient lubrication again or at least enough to eliminate metal to metal contact and stop the rattling.
He's just trying to upsell. The pump should have been replaced with the belt last month. I always recommend that if one goes the other should be replaced, for this very reason. Unless the water pump trashed the belt I wouldn't put the timing kit back in it. One month old... There is nothing wrong with them. But again the pump could have ate the belt, check it, if it is chewed up or missing teeth replace the belt only. And he's just giving you a line of ----, for the alignment part.
Repair it ....A rattle could be anything simple....Normally it is a splashguard or a heat shield that can rattle and make you think it is bad and it wont be.....Have it inspected first ....
some rattles can be a bearing noise from a waterpump or an idler pulley ....etc.....
All vehicles are repairable normally......It could be very simple....I see it all the time...have faith
...The timing belt is common.....Also waterpump.............Hope this helps............Metalpoet
Noises can sound like they are coming from different places , when its not. First, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator etc and run the engine. If the noise has gone , then its a pulley,alternator , pump, bearing etc , you would need to check each part.
Check the exhaust is not rattling or insecure, or the heat plate is not cracked or loose etc.Check the engine and transmission mountings, if they are cracked or too soft and making the power unit hit against the body etc
You must eliminate everything before you consider stripping the transmission.Hope that helps
Hi,you should change cambelt pully(there is a bearing inside pully before it worn out completely,it will cause high friction and heat to burn out your bell and rattling noise).buy cambelt pully from the dealer then take it to the garage ask them to put it in for you (labor about 30.00 dollars)...the rest is ok to wait until 150.000 miles.
good luck!!!!!!!!!!!
Have you checked your oil? Sounds like you may have run it way low, the loud metallic noise is probably metal on metal contact inside your engine, add oil and it that fixes it, count yourself lucky, if not need to take it to a shop.
I'm not sure about Audi 80's, but on A4's you have to pull the whole front of the car off (bumper, headlights, radiators, radiator support panel - the a/c radiator just moves out of the way thanks to long rubber hoses, so not discharge/recharge necessary), but then you get fantastic access and it's really not that hard a job (an hour give or take). If you are going this far, do the timing belt, thermostat and accessary belts. For an extra $100 in parts, you only pay about another 30 mins labour. And if you're doing it yourself - well, you're there anyway! If getting done professionally, go to a VW/Audi specialist as they will have the specialist tools necessary for the job - a regular garage WILL NOT!!
I would start by splitting up the drive train to determine if it is accessory, engine or transmission related. There are a number of things that can cause a problem like this. 1) Is the noise louder in drive or reverse. 2) I would start with heat-shields because of your "clank" description. Exhaust manifold, catalytic converter shields and any other you can find under hood or under body. 3) If all is good, check engine and transmission mounts. Make certain none have collapsed, cracked or broken. 4) If all good, remove all accessory drive belts and start engine to see if noise goes away. That's a lot to start with, so let me know what you find and we will go from there. Regards.
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