Do you have a diagram of the front end changing lower control arm bushing & pin

if you only replace one side,you will not be able to correct tow,do both sides,upper and lower and tie rod ends and all bushings,ebay has kits

Hello! First diagram is the lower...Second is the upper..Guru...saailer

LOWER IDENTIFICATION:




Item
Part Number Description 1
5495 Stabilizer Bar Link Bolt and Bushing Assembly 2
18A192 Nut, Washer and Bushing Assembly 3
808264 Bolt 4
5005 Frame 5
5B326 Torsion Bar (LH) 6
5B327 Torsion Bar (RH) 7
620481 Nut 8
5C491 Nut and Washer 9
3079 Front Suspension Lower Arm (LH) 10
3078 Front Suspension Lower Arm (RH) 11
3A130 Tie Rod End 12
808166 Nut 13
808167 Nut 14
5K483 Front Stabilizer Bar Link 15
5482 Front Stabilizer Bar 16
5484 Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing 17
3B353 Front Stabilizer Retainer 18
N807396-S100 Bolt A
- Tighten to 40-55 Nm
(30-40 Lb-Ft) B
- Tighten to 150-200 Nm (111-148 Lb-Ft) C
- Tighten to 21-29 Nm
(15-21 Lb-Ft)


UPPER IDENTIFICATION:
Item Part Number Description 1 3C156 Damper Assembly (RH) 2 805348 Nut and Washer 3 - Shock Absorber Insulator
(Part of 18198) 4 3C157 Damper Assembly (LH) 5 3020 Front Suspension Bumper 6 3083 Front Suspension Upper Arm Assembly A - Tighten to 34-47 Nm
(25-35 Lb-Ft)



LOWER DIAGRAM FOLLOWED BY UPPER:



I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

opper Control Arm Bushings

• To access the upper control arm, remove the shock absorber and the strut bar. Also, disconnect the sway bar from the lower control arm, if your particular Ram model is equipped with it. After that, you can hold the coil spring in place with a spring compressor.
  Secure the wheel hub assembly to the chassis using a wire before you disconnect the upper ball joint. This will prevent damage to the brake hose. When ready, release the ball joint using a ball-stud loosening tool (see Resources).
  The upper control arm mounts to the chassis with a cam bolt assembly. Once removed, you can place the control arm on a vise and remove the bushings using a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use any lubricant but make sure the flange on the bushing end seats properly on the arm bore. Then re-install the upper control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop to align the front suspension.
  

Lower Control Arm Bushings

• Remove the shock absorber and strut bar. If your particular model is equipped with a sway bar, disconnect it from the lower control arm.
  Secure the coil spring with a spring compressor and release the lower ball joint from the wheel/hub assembly using a ball stud loosening tool (see Resources).
  Now you can release the lower control arm by removing the rear mounting bolts. Remove the bushings with a bushing service tool (see Resources). When installing the new bushings, do not use lubricant and make sure they seat properly on the control arm bore. Then replace the lower control arm. When finished, take your Dodge vehicle to a good shop to align the front suspension
  

General Description
The front suspension allows each wheel to compensate for changes in the road surface without affecting the opposite wheel. Each wheel independently connects to the frame with a steering knuckle, ball joint assemblies, and upper and lower control arms.
The control arms specifically allow the steering knuckles to move in a three-dimensional arc. Two tie rods connect to steering arms on the knuckles and an intermediate rod. These operate the front wheels.
The two-wheel drive vehicles have coil chassis springs. These springs are mounted between the spring housings on the frame and the lower control arms. Double, direct acting shock absorbers are inside the coil springs. The coil springs attach to the lower control arms and offer ride control.
The upper part of each shock absorber extends through the upper control arm frame bracket. This bracket has two grommets, two grommet retainers, and a nut.
A spring stabilizer shaft controls the side roll of the front suspension. This shaft is mounted in rubber bushings that are held by brackets to the frame side rails. The ends of the stabilizer shaft connect to the lower control arms with link bolts. Rubber grommets isolate these link bolts. Rubber bushings attach the upper control arm to a cross shaft. Frame brackets bolt the cross shaft.
A ball joint assembly is riveted to the outer end of the upper control arm. A rubber spring in the control arm assures that the ball seats properly in the socket. A castellated nut and a cotter pin join the steering knuckle to the upper ball joint.
The inner ends of the lower control arm have pressed-in bushings. The bolts pass through the bushings and join the arm to the frame. The lower ball joint assembly is a press fit in the lower control arm and attaches to the steering knuckle with a castellated nut and a cotter pin.
Ball socket assemblies have rubber grease seals. These seals prevent entry of moisture and dirt and damage to the bearing surfaces.
Four-wheel drive models have a front suspension that consists of the control arms, a stabilizer bar, a shock absorber, and right and left torsion bars. The torsion bars replace the conventional coil springs. The lower control arm attaches to the front end of the torsion bar. The rear end of the torsion bar mounts on an adjustable arm at the crossmember. This arm adjustment controls the vehicle trim height.
Two-wheel drive vehicles have tapered roller sheel bearings. These bearings are adjustible and need lubrication.
Four-wheel drive models and RWD Utilities have sealed front-wheel bearings. These bearings are pre-adjusted and need no lubrication.
Heat treatment may create darkened areas on the bearing assembly. This discoloration does not signal a need for replacement.
Hope this helps?

Broken stabalizer links, broken stabilizer bar, and worn out stabilizer bar bushings are fairly common. As well as the rear bushings on the front lower control arms. A quick inspection of the front end and you should be able to tell if the links are bad, bar is broken, or the lower control arm bushings are separated. If the rear bushings on the front lower control arms are seperated the lower control arm will look like it is resting on the subframe.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_d728a59f986299fa

Upper Control Arm and Bushings–C-Series REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1. Raise and support the truck on jackstands. Fig. 1: Installing the upper control arm — C-Series
   
   
2. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack.
3. Remove the wheel.
4. Remove the air cleaner extension (if necessary).
5. Unbolt the brake hose bracket from the control arm.
6. Remove the cotter pin from the upper control arm ball stud and loosen the stud nut until the bottom surface of the nut is slightly below the end of the stud.
7. Install a spring compressor on the coil spring for safety.
8. Using a screw-type forcing tool, break loose the ball joint from the knuckle.
9. Remove the nuts and bolts securing the control arm to the frame brackets.
10. Tape the shims and spacers together and tag for proper reassembly. The 35 Series bushings are replaceable. The 15/25 Series bushings are welded in place. To install: Installation is the reverse of removal but please note the following important steps.
    
11. Place the control arm in position and install the shims, bolts and new nuts. Both bolt heads must be inboard of the control arm brackets. Tighten the nuts finger tighten for now. NOTE: Do not tighten the bolts yet. The bolts must be torqued with the truck at its proper ride height.
    
12. Install the ball stud nut. Tighten the nut to specification.
13. Lower the truck. Once the weight of the truck is on the wheels:
    1. Lift the front bumper about 38mm and let it drop.
    2. Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    3. Draw a line on the side of the lower control arm from the centerline of the control arm pivot shaft, dead level to the outer end of the control arm.
    4. Measure the distance between the lowest corner of the steering knuckle and the line on the control arm. Record the figure.
    5. Push down about 38mm on the front bumper and let it return. Repeat the procedure 2 or 3 more times.
    6. Re-measure the distance at the control arm.
    7. Determine the average of the 2 measurements. The average distance should be 95.0mm plus or minus 6mm.
    8. If the figure is correct, tighten the control arm pivot nuts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models.
    9. If the figure is not correct, tighten the pivot bolts to 88 ft. lbs. (120 Nm) on 1988–90 models; 140 ft. lbs. (190 Nm) on 1991–98 models and have the front end alignment corrected.

Have the CV joint checked for play & ware.

UPPER CONTROL ARM:

Do not disassemble the upper arm. If the ball joint or bushings are faulty, or the upper arm is damaged, the entire upper arm must be replaced.

1. Raise and support the vehicle safely.
2. Remove the front wheels. Support the lower control arm assembly with a floor jack.
3. Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle using a ball joint separator tool.
4. Remove the self-locking nuts from the upper arm anchor bolts. Remove the upper arm from the vehicle.

Do not disassemble the upper arm. If the ball joint or bushings are faulty, or the upper arm is damaged, the entire upper arm must be replaced.
To install:
Use new self-locking nuts when installing the upper arm and strut.

1. Install the upper control arm assembly into the strut tower.
2. Connect the upper ball joint.
3. Install the front wheels and lower the vehicle.
4. With all four of the vehicle's wheels on the ground, torque the upper control arm nuts to 47 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Torque the castle nut to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm); then, only tighten it enough to install a new cotter pin.
5. Tighten the wheel nuts to 80 ft. lbs. (110 Nm).
6. Check and adjust the vehicle's front end alignment.

The bushings on the front lower control arms are replaceable on most models.
This procedure requires the use of a press and may be above the skill range of the average driveway enthusiast. It is recommended that this procedure be done by a qualified machine shop if you are not skilled in the proper use of a press.

1. Remove the lower control arm that is in need of new bushings.
   

It is recommended that both the left and right lower control arm bushings be replaced at the same time. The vehicles handling may become unstable if there are new bushings on one side of the car and worn ones on the other.

1. Set up the control arm in a press.
2. Using a impact socket of the correct length and size, press out the old bushing.
3. Install the new bushing by slowly using the press to push it into the control arm.
4. WARNINGExcessive force could cause the bushing to bend or tear so be careful.
5. Once the bushing is properly seated in the control arm, remove the arm from the press and install it on the vehicle.

Very common BMW problem. The front lateral arms that support the front to rear motion of the wheel. BMW calls it the upper, lower support arm. Two arms connect there. one left to right (think typical lower control arm, and this arm) It has a ball joint that connects to the lower most part of the strut and extends rearward to the rear crossmember and has a large bushing pressed into the arm. You can replace just the bushing if the ball joint end is ok. Bushings are about $45 each and you will need a press.