If you want the same voltage but with increased capacity connect positive to positive and negative to negative on each successive battery ---connected in parallel
example 6 X 12 batteries each of 200 crank hours will be equal to 12 volts and 1200 crank hours ( good for mobile fridges , winches , battery hoists etc)
if you want to increase voltage in the bank then connect positive to negative for each successive battery ---connected in series
for example
with 6 X 12 batteries of 200 crank amps you will have 6 times the 12 volts which equals 72 volts and the current flow is increase from 200 crank amps to exceed the 1200 crank amps because of the electrical principles and formula I think it works out to be around 72 times the 200 crank amps ( I am sure that there are mathematicians out there that will adjust the sum to make it correct)
However I think that you get the idea
when charging batteries it is always positive to positive with the battery leads to the first battery in the bank and the difference is if in parallel the charger has to be big enough the charge at the accepted rate of the batteries ( 12 volts charge at 14.5 volts and around 20 amps an drop back as the batteries charge
when the batteries are in series it all changes and best talk with a good battery supplier as to how it is set up and if you need to change the charging circuit and equipment
SOURCE: 24 volt charging problems .2
A 12 volt battery is actually 13.2 volts fully charged. If you are reading 16 volts, you are probably getting extranious voltage from the system somewhere, especially if the vehicle is running when you check the voltage. The alternator will put out about 15-18 volts to charge the battery normally, and yours may put out 28-32 volts to charge them in series, but the batteries, when disconnected, should never read more than about 13.2 volts each. Typically, it will read about 12 1/2 volts when disconnected. COMPLETELY DISCONNECT BOTH OF THE BATTERIES. If you still read 16 volts when it is disconnected, you must have a bad meter because the battery can't produce that much voltage, no matter what. (Six 2.2 volt cells connected in series inside the case.) Put the meter on a known good battery on another car that is not running and see if you get the same reading. It sounds like the other battery is almost dead, regardless, and it sounds like your series/parallel switch may be malfunctioning. (That is the switch that puts the battery in series to run the 24 volt starter, then puts the batteries in parallel to run the remainder of the vehicle on 12 volts. This is all assuming that you have a diesel vehicle with a 24 volt starter and that is why you have two batteries.
SOURCE: Wiring a Supercharger to a Saturn SL1
You might want to try using an amp wiring kit. I'm not sure what the specs are on those things, but I imagine they put a huge draw on your power supply so it might not be a bad idea to use the amplifier fuse block (usually 80-90 amps) and the heavy gauge wiring to make sure it runs at maximum capacity. Also, the sudden draw on your car's electrical system will rob a lot of power, so you might want to do some research into using a car audio capacitor to minimize the drain. I looked into doing one of these too, and this was the general consensus from several people.
SOURCE: 12 volt alternator putting 24 to 48 vols
Try another multi-meter or change the settings... 12V alternators cannot produce 48V.
SOURCE: Chevy K5 Blazer military diesel with 12/24v
Positive of one battery to hot of vehicle wiring harness--neg. of that battery to positive of other battery--negative of that battery to block (ground)
SOURCE: 1998 jetta battery drains over night. pulled neg
Unhooke your altinator it has 6 diodes in it if one is bad it will drain the battery and still charge,unhook it and recheck I bet that is your problem,Thanks and I hope this helps
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