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Noel Goetz Posted on Jul 19, 2015
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New clutch installed. No pedal, stays on floor unless I bring it back up with my hand. No resistance.

I just replaced the clutch on my 1992 nissan d21 and the pedal is on the floor and does not come up and it is freeplay as I can more it up and down with zero resistance. Tried to bleed it, but still the clutch pedal is on the floor and in freeplay. Any suggestions?

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montehammons

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  • Nissan Master 5,531 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 19, 2015
montehammons
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Joined: Sep 14, 2011
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`Did it bleed, did fluid come out in a steady stream? Isn't there a spring to bring the pedal off the floor?
Check the linkage of the pedal to rod to the clutch master cylinder, make sure that is all together. Any chance the master has an internal leak and won't build hydraulic pressure down at the slave? If you get it bled, then watch the slave operation while someone works the clutch pedal. The piston on the slave should extend and push the clutch fork enough to disengage the clutch.

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How do I bleed a hydrolytic clutch on a 1989 Nissan d21 truck 4x4

There is a bleed valve on the slave cylinder that is on the transmission bell housing. Use an 8 or 10 mm wrench and loosen the valve, then snug it just hand tight. Now have someone depress the clutch pedal. As the pedal is depressed, loosen the bleeder and let air or fluid out. Close the valve as the pedal hits the floor, then repeat until a steady stream of brake fluid comes out of the bleeder as the clutch is depressed.

In many cases, the hydraulic clutch will gravity bleed when the bleeder valve is open. This is especially true if the fluid line from the clutch master cylinder (on the firewall) down to the slave cylinder is not bent up or around any objects, but is pretty much a straight drop down to the slave cylinder. If it won't gravity bleed by just opening the valve, have a helper work the clutch pedal as described. Remember to close the bleeder before letting the pedal up, so that air won't be sucked back in through the bleeder valve.
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it sounds like the clutch master is bad it will look something like the brake master cylinder on the fire wall.you can try bleeding it there before replacing the clutch master loosen the lineup have have someone pump the pedal a couple times if you get agood shot of fluid have the person hold the pedal to the floor and tighten the line back up then bleed the system at the bleeder.
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on the transmission there is a slave cylinder that works like a brake cylinder, when you apply pressure to the clutch pedal a rod inside the vehicle under the dash pushes into a clutch master cylinder, (almost like a brake master cylinder without the reservoir, as the clutch master cylinder works off the brake master cylinders reservoir) the plunger in the clutch master cylinder applies fluid pressure to the slave cylinder,(located down on the trans near the clutch fork assembly) which projects a piston rod into the clutch fork dis-engaging the clutch. To bleed the clutch slave cylinder locate the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder,break loose so it loosens and tightens easily. Check fluid in brake master cylinder reservoir,fill if needed, while bleeder on the slave cyl is closed have a helper push clutch pedal to floor and back 7-8 times, (At first the clutch might stay at the floor, just pull it up by hand or foot and continue) after several pumps with no rest time push pedal to the floor and hold down with foot pressure, at this time loosen the bleeder on slave untill fluid leaks out, watch for air bubbles, close bleeder and repeat untill there is no sign of air bubbles, (make sure to check fluid in the brake master cylinder and keep fill as needed, do not let fluid get less than 1/2 empty as it might **** air and you will have to start over) If this does not bring clutch to operate then you need to check if slave cylinder is reachig its full extension of push rod or not. If it is not then you will have to replace the clutch master cyl or the clutch slave cyl or both as seals are bad and wont hold pressure. Or you need to inspect the clutch fork,the throw-out bearing, or the pressure plate fingers and clutch plate for failure or broken bent parts. I hope it turns out to be a easy fix on that clutching thing.
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Try using 2 people , get the person inside to press the pedal and you undo the bleed valve a little, tighten the valve and get them to release the pedal (or pull it up if it is a little stiff) keep going untill no more air is expelled.
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