Hi I have a problem with water and oil mix (cream) mostly water under the air filter after driving in cold weather around 8 Celsius or bellow it coughs & splutters then stops. I open the air filter sponge out About a tablespoon of water, after about a minute restarts fine run well for little while ( about 1 hour). Then I repeat the proses. Thought it was head gasket put in chem I weld (copper based sealer) thinking that it would fix it but problem still there. CAR: 97-98 Suzuki swift manual Engine: 13GBA
The PCV valve is packed up,
causing PCV LOOP failure, and the top of engine when you start
then sends huge blow-by gasses and MOISTURE.
to the air box (in the wrong direction)!
replace it. or clean it per the service charts.
its a standard service step.
do this first and avoid the other more costly checks and repairs.
this is
easy peasy japaneezy. fix..
all i have is questions, really,,,, pcv is gedunk fix, ignored by most drivers.... "standard service points " ignored..........
how far are you driving? 1min 10 , 100 each day?
and does the engine reach and hold 180F each day
is the Engine misfiring?
does the CEL lap (cluster)_ glow running.?
does the Scan tool show , NO DTC errors.?
when oil is changed (do you ever?), does it look like milk or normal dark brown.
milk under oil cap on short run car, is normal.!
like when driving to school 1mile, (engine never reaches full operating temperatures.. and all fuel burns and makes, H20 as a product of combustion. so..... h20 is normal
but on fully hot engine, not. (it's steam then, out exhaust.)
you said the engine stalls.
might that not be flooding?
are spark tips black at the stall?
stalls have over 50 causes. (and 1 to 10 tests for reason why)
when it stalled did the engine go rough , and shake and misfire badly?
could you save the stall with fast right foot.?
if the PCV is never serviced it clogs
... remove it make sure you can blow through in one direction... if not, its no good.
oldest check on all engines since late 60s.
or the check engine light glows running
or that the scan tool shows any DTC errors.
idle rpm ok? at 800 hot? or screams. all the time.???
does it reach and hold 180+F coolant normal temps hot? and the scan tool agrees it is?
some times thermostats stick open, some do this when bad, on purpose. or some PO took it out. (PO = prev. owners ,daft)
a cold engine will never dry out.
if the PCV is clogged, the bypass gasses go to the wrong place. (air cleaner box)
normally those gasses are sucked in to the engine plenum and burned, but when it clogs
this pressure has no place to go. and lands guess where?the air cleaner box.
nothing new here... just lacking full symptoms from driver.
on old 1990 cars i do compression tests
check spark timing, if off the cam drive belt (omg chain) slipped.
and the full 60k miles service i do now.
as most PO never do it. it's skipped.
and why diagnose any engine, if all it needed was the 60k service point finished off.... (burning long hard labor for nothing)
I check that PCV is good, or replace it. is cheap. $5 then clean EGR valve.
all fluids, sparks and filters on car.
the operators guide covers this 60k mile service steps that repeat. on all modern cars made.
check belts for damage.?
replace thermostat if i even suspect it was ignored, and maybe a new rad cap..
the cap off is the gasket there cracked.?
then i do a full PCM scan,
or cars all scan easy in the USA.
1996 and newer are you here>?
if not HERE many can not be scanned. in 1997.
some cars up to 2006 cant be scanned.(expect at the dealer in many cases)
so why not post your country? is that too much to ask?
on your car , outside, USA the ECU /pcm can only be jumper wire flash code checked.
called the diagnostics jumper.
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Hi Gary,
Are you getting any indication of oil and water mixing in the engine? Evidence will be seen beneath the engine oil filler cap when removed as well as the dip stick end when removed. (Creamy oil). If the answer is yes then the problem is ppossibly head gasket, cylinder head warped or cracked.
If the answer is no then the problem could be an isolated case in one of the air intake chamber having a hair line cracking going to the water passage in the cylinder head.
To check this, drive vehicle until problem show itself . Remove each spark plug and check for water residue on spark plug tip. If yes, cylinder head will have to be removed and pressure test carried out.
Have a compression test done on your engine to diagnose its state...if the cylinder head gasket has gone it will need replacing. You cannot fix it with sealnt.
The head gasket usually goes because of overheating at some prior time to the gasket going. The heat can cause the head to warp or crack in extreme circumstances. I n either case the head would have to be repaired if possible, adding sealant will not fix this.
The more you drive in this condition the more damage you are likely to incur
good luck
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there is no cream under oil filler cap , or in radiator or on dip stick
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