Cold choke baffle has 3/16 opening minute I pump accelerator choke thermostat closes primary baffle shut no air to start I force choke open to start why insufficient air to run at high idle?

Define "kills spark plugs"? If they foul fast, their heat range maybe too cold not allowing them to burn off deposits. Be careful tampering with specified heat ranges as you can damage pistons. Are the new plugs the exact replacement part for that engine? I have switched brands of of spark plugs and have gotten "exact replacements" that were the wrong heat range. For me, I try to stick with the brand used at the factory where ever possible. This way, if it's wrong, it's THEIR fault. Colder range plugs will work fine but for much less time. Another thought. Does this have an automatic choke or a manual choke that you have to close and open? If it's manual, close it to start, open it part way to get going. Open it all the way in about a minute to run. If you run it with the choke shut too long, your fuel mixture will be way too rich once the engine warms up, in turn, fouling your spark plugs. If the choke is automatic, take the air cleaner off and look down the throat of the carburetor. When cold, the plate should be closed all the way. Start the engine and watch this plate. If it doesn't open within 1 or 2 minutes at the most, it's thermostatic actuator is either stuck, malfunctioning or not reacting to engine heat as it should. This will cause spark plug fouling in a hurry. A cold engine requires more fuel to run properly. Rather than try to make a carburetor that will deliver variable amounts of fuel according to ambient air temperature, It is much easier and cheaper to temporarily restrict the amount of available air with a choke plate to achieve this goal. If this choke stays closed for too long or if it is jammed shut, What is the right amount of fuel in a cold engine becomes way too much fuel once it warms up.This is the way that carburetors have worked for over 100 years. Good luck.

causes could be - Faulty Vacuum hoses damaged
- Faulty Air Pump inoperative
- Air bypass solenoid harness is open or shorted
- Air bypass solenoid circuit poor electrical connection
- Air bypass solenoid leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed
- Air diverter valve leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed

An air pump is used on the vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) grounds the Air pump relay control circuit which energizes the Air pump. The PCM also grounds the Air combination valve vacuum control solenoid circuit, which energizes the Air vacuum control solenoid. Vacuum is then applied to both Air combination valve diaphragms which opens the shut off valves. The PCM enables both circuits simultaneously when Air system operations id desired. When the AIR system is active, then Air pump forces fresh air into the exhaust stream in order to accelerate catalyst operation. The AIR combination valves replace the conventional check valves. When the AIR system is inactive the shut off valves prevent air flow in either direction.

You haven't provided a lot to go on here but I'll take a stab in the dark. If you are somewhere that is unusually cold, maybe you just need to let it warm up. Could be the choke is not working, could be the choke is closing but wont open because the heat riser passage in the intake manifold is plugged up with carbon, could be the fuel pump is weak or the filter is plugged and the carb is starving for fuel even though the tank is full.

To check the choke operation, take off the air cleaner lid before you try to start it and operate the throttle by hand while watching the choke plate. It should snap shut. If it does rack the throttle two more times, start it up and watch the choke plate. it should open just a little (maybe 3/8') on a cold day let it run on fast idle for a few minutes, as it starts to warm up the choke should open more. And be fully open after a little while. Given it's age it would not surprise me at all if the carburetor is not working right. If you are going to take it to a shop, look for a mechanic in his late 40's. I know that sounds weird but most of the young guys out there have never even seen a quadrajet let alone rebuilt one.

Replace the chock thermostat. When the engine is cold, the choke is in closed position to restrict airflow and give rich fuel mixture to combustion chamber. As engine area warms up, the choke thermostat gradually opens air passage to increase air flow to combustion chamber, resulting in leaner fuel mixture. The choke is in "full open" while the engine is cold, resulting in lean mixture, causing the engine to die unless you add more throttle to increase fuel mixture.

Cold starting problems from a carbureted engine? Bet if you get your choke adjusted right, it will solve it. If you can screech the tires, this Tercel may be worth saving!
Just get a mechanic friend or pay someone to fix the choke. Doesn't take a long time if you know how. If you've never adjusted or worked on one, it's not so fun. Hard to explain too. The choke plate or flap should be almost closed completely when starting. Soon as engine is cranked or running, the plate should open a small amount more, but still nearly closed. Then as engine warms, the plate should gradually open until it is completely open after about 5-10 minutes. The choke cuts off the air supply to the engine. A cold engine needs a richer gas mixture to run good, and most importantly to start easy.

Sounds like the automatic choke is not functioning properly. Take off the air cleaner before starting on a cold day. Looking into the carburetor, the round choke plate should be nearly closed. If not, check the linkage to see if it is disconnected or hanging up on something. If it is OK, look down the carburetor with the chock plate held open, operate the throttle linkage and see it it shoots a stream of raw gas down the carburetor. If not, the accelerator pump will need to be replaced. That stream of gas aids in starting when cold and in acceleration (as opposed to a gas in mist form that it idles and runs on). An accelerator pump is included in a Carburetor kit and usually looks like a round flat rubber diaphragm.

First thing to do is check the choke and make sure it works. When the engine is cold enough to need starting fluid, remove the air breather completely from the carb. get yourself positioned so you can see directly into the carb and open the throttle linkage all the way. You should see 2 things happen. One, the choke plate should close at least part way and 2, you should see a shot of gas going into the barrels. If you're not sure about the gas, hold the choke plate open and giver the linkage another shot.
If the choke plate didn't close, hold it closed with your fingers and try to start the truck. It should start, back off the choke plate a little and after a couple minutes it should be good to go.
If there was no gas, either it drains off or the fuel pump is getting weak. If the truck doesn't give you any trouble under moderate to hard acceleration, it's not likely the fuel pump. Trouble such as coughing or sputtering. These go away when you ease up on the throttle.
If it's the carb draining off then it is time for a rebuild. But, check around before you send it out. Call around and get a price for a total rebuild and then check online. It may be just as cheap or cheaper to buy new from someone like Summit Racing.

Here is the definition of the code.

P0410 GMC Description An air pump is used on the vehicle to lower tail pipe emissions on start-up. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) grounds the Air pump relay control circuit which energizes the Air pump. The PCM also grounds the Air combination valve vacuum control solenoid circuit, which energizes the Air vacuum control solenoid. Vacuum is then applied to both Air combination valve diaphragms which opens the shut off valves. The PCM enables both circuits simultaneously when Air system operations id desired. When the AIR system is active, then Air pump forces fresh air into the exhaust stream in order to accelerate catalyst operation. The AIR combination valves replace the conventional check valves. When the AIR system is inactive the shut off valves prevent air flow in either direction.
Possible causes - Faulty Vacuum hoses damaged
- Faulty Air Pump inoperative
- Air bypass solenoid harness is open or shorted
- Air bypass solenoid circuit poor electrical connection
- Air bypass solenoid leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed
- Air diverter valve leaking/blocked or stuck open/closed
Read more: http://engine-codes.com/p0410_gmc.html#ixzz2H3Wjt8f7

more than likely the baffle control that changes position to allow the heat to be allowed into the car.. this is a typical problem on the benzes, you need to remove the cover to the right of the accelerator petal that covers the components, on the dash where to ac button says auto, you can roll the outer ring to manually change where the air comes out see if this is moving and you should have a second one for the baffle that opens and closes the door to allow heat to enter, change the temperature up and down and see if there is movement. If there is it could be your thermostat has stuck in the open position not allowing your car to heat up properly. If your water pump is bad you will see antifreeze on the ground coming out of the weep hole that is on the pump.

One problem is related to the other.The dieseling is caused by a rich air/fuel mixture which is caused by the closing choke.So you need to adjust the choke to where it is slightly open when the engine is cold.If it is electric then it has a thermostatic device that positions the choke just cracked open when cold and slowly opens as the engine heats up.Whats happening is the choke may actually be loose and when the engine shuts off the vacuum pulls the choke close creating the combustable rich fuel mixture(if you watched the choke when someone else turns off the engine you'll see the choke flapping while the engine is dieseling).Try putting a screw driver in the carb(with engine running) blocking the choke from closing.Then shut the engine off.It shouldnt diesel.You may have to replace the carb thermostat