No compression on all 4 cylinders after changing timing chain with out moving TDC before removing old timing chain and gears. Have fuel and spark on all four plugs.

Set No. 1 to TDC/COMPRESSION. To set in the following manner.
a. Remove No.1 spark plug.
b. Place your finger over the hole of the no.1 spark plug and rotate
the crankshaft clockwise to tdc. If pressure is felt on your finger
this is TDC/Compression of the no.1 cylinder. If not repeat the
process.
c. Position the slot of the oil pump drive from 12 o clock looking
at it from the bolt that holds the distributor down should be
approx at 30 degrees to the right.
d. Align the groove of the housing with the drill mark of the driven
gear (not driven gear straight pin).
e. Insert the distributor, aligning the center of the flange with that
of the bolt hole on the cylinder block.
f. Also you can line up the no.1 marking of the cap to the rotor position
for no.1

I need some clarification. Did you replace the belt because it broke? If so you may need to replace the head. The problem is if the belt breaks when your moving it usually damages the head and thus needs to be replaced.

every possibility that the timing ( firing order) is wrong from what you describe
bring the engine to tdc no1 piston on compression and that is no 1 plug lead in the distributor cap

this fix is going to be found by the process of elimination. as im sure you already know you need three things air, fuel and spark (yes you also need compression and proper valve timing but well get to that) start with air, its the easiest, simply check the air filter and all if any ducting to ensure are is making it to the throttle. next check to make sure your getting fuel. one easy test thats a little on the general side is to spray a small amount of starting fluid into the intake and give it a crank, if it tries to start or starts for just a second then fuel delivery is the issue. a better way to test would be to check for pressure, on a cam driven manual pump simply remove the out/flow hose and hook it up to a pressure gauge and crank the engine. on electronic pumps hook up a gauge to the service port and turn on ignition, ensure your getting the correct amount of fuel pressure for the application. net check for spark, you can pull a plug and and ground it out while cranking to motor and see if it sparks, or hook up a timing light to each plug and check for a pulse. now once youve gone through and ensure you have, air, fuel and spark the next issue to check is valve timing. first locate the number 1 spark plug wire terminal on the distributor, mark its position on the base of the distributor or the intake manifold, remove the cap and turn the crank by hand (youll need to pull all the spark plug wires) until it reaches TDC (compression stroke for number one cylinder) at this point the rotor should be pointing at the mark you made for number one terminal. if its not then your valve timing is out and you need a new timing chain. another way to check is pull the driver side valve cover and watch the valve move as you approach TDC. at TDC all the valves over number over number 1 should be closed, if not then valve timing is out and you need a new chain. now if all that checks out the next step is to check for compression. simply remove the spark plugs and screw in a compression tester, check each cylinder, youll want to double check the specs but in general some where between 150 and 200 psi is normal.

Check your owner's manual for the recommended mileage for replacing your timing chain. Replacement for a Nissan Maxima is 60,000 miles.2 Locate the timing chain. Replace it if the automatic chain adjuster (also known as the tensioner) is damaged or worn.3 Release the pressure in the fuel system, drain the cooling system and disengage the negative battery cable. 4 Undo the upper radiator hose, engine drive belts, power steering pulley and pump with bracket, air duct, passenger front wheel and engine side and undercovers, front exhaust pipe, cylinder head front mounting bracket and head cover, rocker cover, distributor and distributor cap and spark plugs.5 Take off the intake manifold support and move the No. 1 piston at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke.6 Disconnect the cylinder head front cover, water pump pulley, thermostat housing, upper and lower tensioner and slack side timing chain guide, idler sprocket bolt, camshaft sprocket bolts, sprockets, mounting caps and camshafts. 7 Disengage the cylinder head with the manifolds, idler sprocket shaft, upper timing chain, center crossmember, oil pan and strainer assembly, crankshaft pulley, engine front mount and bracket and the front timing cover. Remove the oil seal and unfasten the timing chain cover, idler and crankshaft sprockets and the oil pump drive spacer. 8 Unfasten the timing chain guide. install Your Timing Chain 1 Grease the oil seal lip with engine oil and place it in the front cover. Verify that the No. 1 piston is at "Top Dead Center" (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2 Reconnect the crankshaft sprocket (marks should point toward the engine's front), oil pump drive spacer and timing chain guide and the lower timing chain. Line up all mating marks.3 Hook up the crankshaft sprocket and pulley, lower timing chain, front cover assembly, engine mount and front mounting bracket, oil strainer and pan assembly and center crossmember.4 Reattach the upper timing chain, idler sprocket (to the back side), cylinder head assembly, idler sprocket bolt and exhaust and intake camshafts. Place the intake camshaft knock pin at 9 o'clock and the exhaust pin at noon. Connect the camshaft bearing caps and distributor brackets and secure all mounting bolts.5 Eliminate any old material from the pan and cylinder block mounting surfaces. Rub on a 3.5 to 4.5mm bead of liquid gasket over the oil pan and cylinder block.6 Attach the upper timing chain to the idler sprockets and secure the cylinder head bolts.7 Refill the cooling system. Hook up the negative battery cable and any other disconnected items. Start the engine and look for leaks.

Need to check these things first
Has it got fuel?.......................Is there fuel in the carby bowl? Has it gt a spark?...................Does the spark occur when the piston is near TDC? Has it got air?........................Check compressions
Did you remove the timing chain / if so I suspect you have incorrect valve timing.....easily checked by turning engine by hand till the piston approaches TDC then the rotor arm must be opp that spark plug lead. As the piston comes up to TDC the air should be rushing out of the cylinder.

Could be fuel or spark, or even a poor cylinder. With a spark tester, look at spark on all cylinders, do a compression test to verify good compression. (Valve problem, or jump timing at the timing chain)
You should check fuel pressure before changing a pump. If all of this looks good, a noid light at the injector (s) will tell you if the computer is firing the injectors properly.
If you can get it to idle, remove a spark plug wire, one at a time, if it runs worse, that cylinder is working, if it has no change, that cylinder has a spark or fuel issue, for that cylinder.

I suggest you bring the pistons to TDC, one at time on the comprssion stroke and do a "cylinder leakage test". Put compressed air into the spark plug hose and try to detect where the air is going. If you have the piston exactly at TDC, it will stay there when you put conpressed air in the hole, if it's off a little it will push the piston down. If you have the valve cover off you can watch the valves to determine if you have the pistons on the compression stroke. You should be able to buy a fitting from an auto parts store that will thread into the spark plug hole. If not take an old spark plug and bust the guts out of it and weld a pipe fitting to it to adapt your air compressor hose.

fuel pressure regulator it is located on the spider pump behind the throttle body

The Info I Have Is Extensive and Has Illistrations, I Need to Emali it to You As it is Very Large, This Is A Small Example Im @[email protected]

Special Tool(s)

1. With the vehicle in neutral, position it on a hoist.
2. Remove the intake manifold.
3. Remove the fuel supply manifold.
4. Remove the accessory drive belt.
5. Remove the thermostat housing.
6. Remove the roller followers.
7. NOTE: You must retime the LH and RH camshafts when either camshaft is disturbed. Turn the crankshaft clockwise to position the number one cylinder at top dead center (TDC).
8. NOTE: Late build pulley shown, early build pulley similar. NOTE: The special tool must be installed on the damper and should contact the engine block to position the engine at TDC.