Sounds like the battery or the alternator
Usually has to do with the voltage regulator in the alternator.
That tells it where to put the power and how much output to put.
If the voltage starts to fail it will put the power to the most important parts which is the engine and it will make your lights flicker.
everything ran beautifully, I turned the key to turn engine off and quickly restarted it and that happened. Is the voltage regulator a hard or expensive fix?
This is Ron to lazy to login. The issue is not the voltage regulator since it ran beautifully and then died. I have read that this car is known for the ground wire to the transmission to become loose. The ground wire should be bolted to the transmission right under the battery tray with a 12 mm bolt. Make sure the eyelet is properly crimped onto the wire or cable. Also make sure it's not rusted. If the bolt is loose or the wire is broke then that's your issue. But this has happend before with your model with others that got the same symptoms.
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Check battery and connections
Does it fail to crank robustly ?, with key in the start position?
yes or no?
no? then jumper cable, crank the engine off a running donor car.
just like AAA tow trucks all do. crank now?
or buy jumper cables . (not the $7 ones, the one with 6 gage or larger wire (lower numbers are best)
that is the answer for no crank.
if it cranks ok, and the head lights dim (yes do that)
then the battery is weak. charge it.
if it wont hold a charge its BAD.
if it charges now, and then car cranks ok, and starts.
then check battery voltage,
13.3v to 15vdc (a 10buck meter from walmart, )
is that is good, then the Charge system is good. if not its bad.
if the battery only discharges , over night say. then that is called
phantom drains. (if true, ask for help , )
the battery is charged if it has 12.6vdc rested.
the key fact missing here, (preventing diagnosis) is the jumper cable starts.
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