I changed myfront brakes n my 1997chevy tahoe,but nw is making a clickn sound on my left drum

Check and make sure the rear axle bearing are good. One maybe going bad also check the universal joint on the drive shaft to make sure there is no wear there as well. Hope this helps.

It should not, unless it shares the same wiring circuit with your brake system.

That's a warning sign for you to change also your left brakes. Its very thin.

for one, a "cheap" tune up is never recommended for any vehicle. always use quality parts and when doing it, always replace the plugs, wires, and depending on model, distributor cap and rotor, those all are not expensive and save you down the road from disaster. SSBC or BAER are good systems for doing a drum to disc conversion, they have Great instructions and brackets to make the switch over less painful then it used to be. hope this makes it a little easier for you

yes it is dangerous but an easy fix. common mistake when doing drum brakes is an improper adjustment or faulty part the brake adjuster is installed incorrectly or the brake wheel cylinder is not releasing do both sides of the wheel cylinder press in if not replace check the E brake for proper adjustment as well as some have self tensioner and would need to be backed off for new shoes

maybe a wheel bearing or ball joint

is this the front brakes doing this?? or the rear?? i would recomend changing pads and rotors and drums(rear) and shoes(rear)

Im sorry for this bad news but It seems like you need a major tranny job. I would go for an used one. Don't spend money trying to fix this problem doing something else because that's just like putting it in the trash can. Im sure your tranny has gone bad.
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Raise the Tahoe's rear end on jack stands. Block the front wheels and remove both of the rear wheels. Release the parking brake. Remove the brake drum, cutting off the pressed metal washers with a strong cutting tool.
If the drum won't come off because the drum shoes have worn into the drum, retract the shoes by removing the access plug from the backing plate. Push the lever off the adjuster star wheel with a small screwdriver and turn the star wheel with another screwdriver.
Clean off the entire assembly with break cleaner, using a drain pan to catch the residue. Never blow away brake dust with compressed air. Detach the spring from the adjuster level from within the drum by gripping it Detach the spring from the adjuster level from within the drum by gripping it shoe. Remove the trailing shoe and adjuster lever. Remove the adjuster screw assembly. Pull away the retractor spring and remove the leading shoe. Disconnect the trailing shoe from the parking brake lever.

Clean off the backing plate and lightly lubricate its shoe contact areas with high-temperature grease. Clean the adjuster screw assembly and lubricate the threads and socket end. Inspect the condition of the drum itself. If there are any cracks, score marks, deep scratches or discolored areas that can't be removed with an Emory cloth, have the drum resurfaced at an automotive machine shop.

Attach the new trailing shoe to the parking brake lever, position it on the backing plate and install the retractor spring's end into its hole. Re-install the adjuster screw assembly, making sure it engages with the leading shoe. Lubricate and install the adjuster level on the trailing shoe.
Place the trailing shoe on the backing plate, making sure it properly engages with the adjuster screw assembly, and insert the retractor spring into its hole within the trailing shoe. Place the actuator spring within its hole in the leading shoe, stretch the spring and connect it to the adjuster level.
Install the drum back on the Tahoe. Turn the adjuster screw's star wheel until the drum slips over the shoes without rubbing them. Reconnect the wheels once the brakes are changed on both sides and lower the vehicle.

Good luck and go for a test drive. If you could find a empty parking lot, go in reveres and do a full brake application a 7 to 10 times. This will self adjust the brakes to ensure that both side's are adjusted the same. 

i would check front and rear brakes if rears are drum brakes i would inspect springs and hardware making sure everthing is conected and in place also make sure they are adjusted properly in the front and if rear disc i would make sure to grease caliper slides these allow caliper to move and its important that all moving brake parts are free push caliper pistons in alittle to see if they are sized or not booster is ok and most of the time when master goes it will leak where it meets booster and you will have a low brake pedal or no brakes