Lots of possible problems can cause a rough idle. Vacuum hose is particularly common. Shops want to charge an exorbitant amount to do a smoke leak test too which makes most people leave it and deal with a rough idle. I'll address that in a moment. Check to make sure everything is connected...no extra hoses or no extra ports that look like they should have hoses. Make sure you have a good air filter and that the breather filter isn't clogged (if you're breather uses the intake filter and lots of newer cars do, make sure the hose that goes from your filter box to the valve cover isn't hard, cracked, or disconnected). May be worth replacing the PCV valve (they're usually fairly cheap and easy to swap). Once you've eliminated that...
DISCLAIMER: I do NOT in any way advocate smoking of any kind. If you are a non-smoker find a friend that smokes for this if you decide to attempt it. DON'T START SMOKING JUST TO DO A SMOKE LEAK TEST. No car is worth the prolonged health damage. As a former smoker I can tell you quitting is a nightmare and its just not worth it. ALSO I am not responsible if this somehow damages your car. I've done it a fist full of times and found my own vacuum leaks every time with this method but that doesn't mean your car will be as happy about it as mine turned out to be. Keep the cigar away from under the hood at all times! Its common sense here people, there's fuel hiding in a few places that will readily ignite and give you a very bad day. I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE!
BUT:... if you can find a smoker, buy them a cigar. Non-flavored cigar is preferable as there are less tars to deal with. Disconnect a vacuum hose that has a bit of length to it that runs into the intake manifold. Have your resident smoker take a good heavy pull from the cigar and blow the smoke into the vacuum line. Look for smoke trickling out from any of the other vacuum hose connections. If you find smoke at all, you've found your vacuum leak. No smoke, do it again. Do it a few times. Its a quick and dirty smoke test that has worked for me every time.
Failing all of that, I'd start looking at sensors. Vacuum lines are fairly cheap...check the cheap first.
Hope this helps someone in some way! Best of luck!
Thank u so much. I'm writing down everything that's suggested because the guy who's to help me repair it is working today. You know, this started when my battery terminals had to be replaced. Then someone stole my battery and replaced a very weak one. She was running great and then she started going dead without any warning and would crank up easily when i dropped to neutral. But when she went dead and i towed her here we put a really new battery in and she cranked up but couldn't smooth out but u could tell she wanted to. So i hope its going to be inexpensive and not major.
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SOURCE: cabin air filter replacement
The cabin air filter is located under the cowl. Open the hood, proceed to the passenger side of the car and you will see where the right side wiper is resting, under the black plastic cowl there the cabin filter is.
SOURCE: replace rear brake light bulb 1998 lincoln continental
pop the trunk and right behind where the lights are pull the carpet
down and their will be of the following depending on the trim.
You will either see the light sockets themselves that you can twist and pull to change the bulb, or you will see the plastic nuts/screws that you can remove to remove the entire assembly in order to access the bulbs.
If it's your 3rd brake light, the screws to access the housing are located in the upper part of the trunk
SOURCE: rear air shocks 1998 lincoln continental deflate when parked
My Grandma marquis did the same thing, I thought that was normal, it slowly goes down when you shut it off and slowly goes up when you start it, It didn't hit the ground or anything, but then it finally did die altogether, years later, and then it hit the ground, so I got regular shocks back there and it rode fine, stayed level, it is now resting in the junkyard in a shallow unmarked grave. It was a nice car.
SOURCE: 1998 lincoln continental transmission problems
TRANSMISSION THERMOSTAT INSIDE TRANSMISSION ON VALVE BODY YOU HAVE A PRESSURE LEAK CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER LINES FITTING TO RADIATOR FOR LEAKS LOOK UNDER CAR WHILE IT RUNNING LOOK FOR FLUID LEAKS. YOU COULD A LEAKING TORQUE CONVERTER SEAL.
SOURCE: have a 1998 lincoln continental that has factory
if its an aftermarket alarm, which im sure it is, find the brain to the aftermarket alarm and unhook it. trace the brain back from the car alarm siren hardware. it shoud b mounted somewhere under the hood. theres not a lot of available space in the engine compartment. so you should easily find the siren hardware. trace the wiring back to the brain and disconnect it. it cant be factory alarm. factory alarm only goes off when u dont use keyless remote or key to unlock a locked door or trunk. factory alarm blows horn and blinks parking lights
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there is no such animal as a 2.0 sensor it's 02 sensor
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