Will not start off the key switch but I can cross the relay over under the hood and it will start and run fine

Is the anti-theft light lit on the instrument cluster ? Won't start how ? When you turn the key to start , what happens ? Nothing ? This would be a No crank - no start condition . Now if you turn the key to start and the starter engages and spins the engine and it doesn't start an run , this is a engine cranks no start condition ! Now which is your problem ?

There are two fuse's IGN A fuse 40amp and IGN E fuse 10amp ,both are located in the under hood fuse/relay box . Also there is starter relay located in the same under hood fuse /relay box . There also is a crank fuse 10amp in the under hood fuse box . Besides the fuse's and relay ,the ignition switch or the PNP - park neutral position switch could be bad . Testing the whole starter circuit should be done ! How to voltage drop test starter motor circuit

hi make sure there is no starter kill circuit aftermarket alarm ,or remote starter if so i need the brand of the system by jumping the starter under the hood with remote start u need the ignition key to be in the run position before u crank the engine over then if it is the starter relay in the fuse box under the hood the engine will run just relace relay or check wires under the fuse box for corrosion hope it helps danny

I would try a new relay. Either the relay is bad, or the start wiring circuit is messed up. Hopefully, it is just a relay stuck on. It could be your ignition switch, too. The single start wire out of the switch should only have power on it when the key is held in start. If it has power when key is in run, or any position other than start, it is a bad ignition switch. Check that if a new relay doesn't help.

under nneath the hood of the car where the fuse,s are black looking fuse

Hi, the problem is either with the crank fuse, ignition switch, safety interlock or the starter relay. First check the fuse (in the instrument panel fuse box). Can you hear the starter relay click when you turn the key to start? You may want to probe the relay socket with a 12 volt test light to see if the ignition switch is working. If it is, there will be 2 hot terminals in the socket when the key is turned. The relay is in the relay box under the hood. Connect your test light clip to chassis or engine ground, pull out the starter relay, and have someone hold the key in the start position while you probe the relay socket terminals. If there are 2 hot terminals, replace the relay. If there is only one hot terminal, try bypassing the interlock switch. On a manual transmission, the interlock is above the clutch pedal. Pull the connector off it and connect the terminals in the connector using a large paper clip.
If you have an automatic, pull the connector off the range sensor and connect the green and purple wires using a large paper clip. I think it's on the tranny. See picture of it below. Please let me know if you have questins, and thanks for using FixYa.

positive wire from battery to positive on coil will sort ignition out
but not sure if it will sort fuel depends on the system

Listen for the fuelpump when you first turn the key. It will run only 1 or 2 seconds and then cut off. If you do not hear it run, there is a switch in the trunk next to the Airride.

This is the Inertia switch and you need to push the button on it and hold it in for 1 or 2 seconds. Then turn your Ignition key and see if the fuelpump runs. It should start fine after this. The Inertia switch is a safety switch and sometimes can trip when a door or trunklid is slammed.

If your vehicle does not start, you still could have a Bad fuelpump relay which you will find in one of the Powerboxes under the hood. There are also Ignition relays for some models, again in a Powerbox. There are scanners which you can use to diagnose the problem.

The antitheft system can interfere with starting. As a last effort you can try to punch n the Doorcode and try to start the car within seconds of entering the code.

check the igintion switch

You need to check for power at the purple wire going to the solonoid while key is in the start position, if no juice then check starter relay-under hood- fuse ,and ignition switch

I just had this same problem on my 96 Explorer XLT. Very random when it would do it, sometimes everyday for a week or nothing for 6 months. What I found was that when this happened, when I turned the key to the on position without starting the vehicle. That the check engine light should come on and if it doesn't, that means the the computer isn't powering up. What I had to do was leave the key in the on position and pop the hood, and on the passenger side of the engine compartment, there is a power distribution block, in there is a relay for the EEC Power Relay. Now with the key on I wiggled this relay and you can hear systems under the hood kick in. Relays turning on, etc nothing actually starting to scare you though. But this lets you know that the computer is alive and running. You should now be able to turn the key to the start position and the vehicle should no crank over, but now fire and run. It took me quite a while to figure this out because it was so intermittent. In the end, I replaced the relay for the EEC Power and everything has been fine since. When the new relay was in there I could not replicate this fault as I could with the bad relay. Hope this helps you.

Don