My ex drained oil in my car. it started to sputter, I turned off the engine got a push home figured out what he did. filled it back up with oil. won't start. Motor turns over.

Changing the oil in a Hyundai Sonata is an easy task that should be performed every 3,000 miles. Follo the below steps to change the oil on your Hyundai Sonata:
1) Ensure the car is parked on a flat surface. Place a drain pan under the engine. Locate the oil pan directly under the engine. The oil pan will be at the very bottom. Now, unscrew the drain plug at the front of the oil pan with a socket wrench. Allow all the oil to drain out into the oil pan. Tighten the drain plug back into the oil pan with a socket wrench.
2) Locate the oil filter in front of the engine. There will be a cut-out in the protective shield where the oil filter is located. Unscrew the oil filter with a strap wrench. Allow the oil to drain into the oil pan. Place the old filter in with the waste oil.
3) Fill the oil filter with fresh engine oil. Screw the filter on to the filter housing by hand. Do not wrench tighten, which could strip the threads of the filter or filter housing. Open the hood for access to the engine compartment. Unscrew the oil cap on the top of the engine.
4) Pour in three quarts of engine oil. Pull the engine oil dipstick out of the dipstick tube and wipe it clean. Push the dipstick back into the dipstick tube. Pull back out and look at the engine oil level. If the oil on the dipstick does not stop between the two marks on the dipstick, pour in a half quart of oil and check the level again. Do not overfill.
5) Start the car and allow it to run for few minutes. Turn the car off and check the oil level once again. Add another half quart of oil if necessary. Ensure the oil cap is back on the engine and the hood is closed. Hope this helps and if you need any parts for your sonata, this site looks like it has cheap prices, free shipping and great reviews http://www.buyautoparts.com/carmodels/Hyundai/Sonata.html

Mass air flow , crank sensor . I wouldn't discount anything . Having a scan tool that can view engine sensor data would be a great help too , testing fuel pressure and flow and back pressure test the exhaust .
058 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Lean Fuel Condition
055 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Scan Data for EGR
057 Engine Hard to Start or No Start Ignition Module Test
007 Catalytic Converter Testing

If you used one of the 'quick lube' shops, you may not have any oil in it at all. One of them drained the automatic transmission instead of the oil and even filled the transmission with engine oil, destroying it. $6000 later with a law suit behind her, she got her car and money back. Most of those shops employ idiots and I would never entrust any vehicle to them.

Get enough space from undeneath the car. Get a wrench ( most japs need a 17.. or 19mm) a plastic bowl of at least 5-6 lt capacity, get underneath the car, unscrew the bolt that is at the very bottom end of the engine, carefully at the last twisting mm's not to remove it quickly cause you'll make a mess, let the old oil drain to the bowl, get up, unscrew the top oil cap of the engine, let air get in and provide equal pressure to drain the oil completely, and when it happens, screw to bottom bolt back, tighten it and make sure the copper sealing ring is in good condition, ( otherwise change with new one to avoid leaks), fill with new oil fro above, taking filling indications every while, to make sure you filled the correct amount of oil, start the engine and wait untill the oil pressure warning red light turns off, turn off the engine, fill to the desired point, close the cap, and ...........you're done!!!

take off one of the plug wires and hold it next to a metal surface, get someone to turn the engine over for you and see if the spark is bright blue, if it is the coils are ok, then check for oil leaking around your distributor, if you have an oil around that area take off the distributor cap and see if there is oil inside. the seal may be gone, while you have the cap off it would be a good time to check the rotor button inside

The freeze plug you replaced was due to rust or was it pushed out by freezing temperature? These plugs are not designed to protect the engine block from cracking during freezing temperatures, they are there to remove the sand from the block after casting it. I would drain your system completely and flush out the radiator thouroughly and fill with plain water, then run the engine and see if oil gets in the water, if it does and the plug was out due to freeze, then your block is probably cracked, although you could just have a head gasket leak. Oil pressure (40psi) is higher then water pressure (17psi), so getting oil in the water is always more prominent than the other way around. Flush out the system and let me know if oil returns to the water, hope this helps

You have oil on top of your pistons... Oil doesn't compress so the engine won't even turn over. Take out the spark plugs (or glow plugs in a diesel), crank her over until only fuel mist sprays out the plug holes and then put it back together. Should be fine then.

underneath the engine at the lowest point there is a bolt about 17mm undo drain oil then put 17mm plug in fill the new filter with new oil before screwing back on and place oil around rubber ring on new filter so it seals properly fill with oil to low point on dipstick start car check oil filter for leaks turn car off let oil settle and check level again too much oil in a motor will cause problems so dont over fill hope this helps glenn...........

i have the same car and the same problem it is your rev-limiter its a wire problem there is not much you can do but replace your wire harness and it will not burn out your clutch if you have it in neutral so don't sweat it.mine has been doing it for about 2 years its nothing that will do any real damage hondas will run forever just as long as you keep the tune ups on it.oil change,trans fluid,spark plugs etc...