ECU and injector are both new. On startup I get a pulse to the injector to spit. After that no pulse feed line pressure is good. Compression and spark is good. Timing belt is good. Relays are good.
Last time I asked this someone got really over zealous and wanted to take my car apart and put it together in an hour. Please answer just the question
You want a simple answer but there is not one. The ECU looks at many things to determine what (if any) pulse is proper. Any sensor which sends no information or info outside of normal limits can prevent pulse. No info from crank/cam sensor is common issue, Bad EFI fuse or relay can do this. Bad ECU ground or other ground (Fuel rail) can do this. Many sensors can be tested with ohm meter.
Actually the camshaft sensor was suspect before I asked the question. I don't expect an easy answer but I do appreciate not taking my engine apart. Tested TPS ohms are in spec in the haynes manual. Not sure how to test MAP sensor besides replacing. Any ideas how to test camshaft position sensor?
Using digital meter (old style unit use too mach battery) check for continuity. Cam sensors are very common failure part. Haynes manual should tell how to test MAP, but I think generally you use ohm meter and suck or blow into hose port and see if reading changes smoothly as you increase pressure (using handheld vacuum pump is better if you have one. I suspect cam sensor.
Haynes doesn't tell how to test and oriellys can only test ohms. Will see if I can get a vacuum pump but right now concentrating on cam sensor. Thanks for the assist
he wants either spoon feeding, or just a single guess. he does not want to diagnose it.. that is a give. i gave him a list and he didnt like it, so I will asnwser your quesiton, the injector is dead because the ECU has bad inputs, or the Injector is bad. or the ECU injector driver is bad. he has the G10 TBI engine, we know them very well. seems, too well for OP.
Cadaver you want to take my car apart and put it back together in an hour. Little over zealous or tweeking flip a coin
You want a simple answer but there is not one.
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Http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us60324.htm
read how EFI works.
the how to do the tests.
or guess.
your call.
What wild guessing>?
or how to fix cars.? EFI.
the answer is same on all EFI engines. !
The ECU injects based on inputs.
(this is like EFI basics 101, day 1. need Block diagram?))
the dead injector has many causes, must list them all for you.?
did a NOID light test fail? this is first test on all dead injectors , unless you have tools and can check fuel pressure.
I don't want to overload you with facts, or tests. as there are many.
The ECU cuts injector dead (noid DEAD) for (inline injector resistor blown (side show1)
CMP dead
Ignitor reads dead.
DTC errors, fix those yet?
A regular test lamp works just as good ! I started working as a tech.1984 at a chevrolet deal , have worked for cadillac,pontiac ,gmc , for thrity years !
got 12vdc on both sides of your injector resistor block key on.
?
seen here, ?
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/the-pul...
if not the the resistor is gone.
or fuse "FI" is blown'
or Main relay bad.
if that works then the noid lamp test, is next.
all 4 ways to do noid tests per FSM is here, and lots of DIY ways.
http://www.fixkick.com/INJECTORS/NOID101...
this page is for G16
but the G10 is exactly the same but with the silly resistor block
added just for fun.
this post assumes, engine runs in test fuel , as stated in other posts.
and that fuel pressure is at spec.
the ECU cuts fuel for the following reasons. (above is other reasons.)
1: lost 12vdc to ECU.
2: lost cmp sensor sigs.
3: lost tachometer signals (ignitor dead or its brown read back wire cut at C1-26 pin on ECU) or the noise filter fell off car. (dang)
4: ECU not grounded.
5: fuel injections are cut if the TPS signals(wrongly) at wide open throttle.
how is this post , better? (or too tech heavy)-?
if not clear , ask questions, can peel the onion deeper, on demand.
good luck.
50 years, and retired eary, at 60, you figure it out.
Sonny!
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I bet you live in a salt zone. With the age of the car you have may have connection, contact extensive corrosion problems. Check all of your connections, clean and scrape to bright metal both sides. I used electronic point/connection cleaner too. I had a serious problem with cold start.
The very difficult to get to Thermal sensor connection got this treatment. Cleared the codes,
Wala, instant start, just like new.
The ECM turns the injector on , check for control ! You have two wires , one is power the other is control. It depends on how it is set up , is it power side switch or ground side switch Ok after looking at a wiring diagram I see the ECM supply's a ground ! An it gets power from FI relay in fuse / relay box an check FI fuse 15amp in the same place !
Yup what I found too.
Do you have voltage on one side while cranking the vehicle over ? you need to do while cranking to see if the power drops out. On the other wire the computer supply's a ground an you need to test this side while cranking the engine over also but use a test light with the clamp to positive battery post an touch the other to the wire going to pcm ,if there is control the light will flash or more like flicker !
I get flicker on start but not after
Check for 5volts at the TPS -throttle position sensor ,there are three wires ,the one you want to check islite green with a white strip ! If no 5volts the 5 volt reference circuit is down causing your problem ! One of the sensors is shorted on 5volt ref. circuit !
Cool gonna check tomorrow
You live in Seattle ! cool I lived down the road for 12 years , Vancouver ! Love those Seahawks !
Not a big football fan unless I'm playing but the Hawks are doing a lot even off the feild. Kudos to all of them
if engine runs on test fuel, does it? then you lost injections, so? the NOID light test is next, is the fuel injector resistor blown open or pins rusty, , got 12v to the resistor, and is resistor ohms not infinity, and is inector coil not infintiy,? ohms? all these will cause the NOID lamp test to fail, as will many inputs to the ECU or even a bad ECU. the test are easy but seems you just want to guess. replace all those parts. 1 by 1. The ECU also custs fuel for (tacho/igniter read back pin dead) and cuts fuel for TPS stuck at wideopen throttle. (if the 5vdcref is dead, (all loads pulled at source , that is a bad ECU) !
got 12vdc at bottom of FI relay? above? and not 0v at injector cranking at point between injector and resistor block>? using any volt meter? we check this first if you dont have a tech1 scan tool. like we have. the scan tool will show all reasons for the ECU to not inject. lacking this tool, the tests are tedious, if you need a list of all things that can kill injection, its not a big list. and was posted to you . already.
a NOID light can be made for $1 , google how to use a NOID light, or youtube it. i
your a b**** head ! you asked you !
correct any NOID lamp works even home made, 50years , kid)
Remove the injector test lamp from the fuel injector electrical connector.
Turn ON the ignition, leaving the engine OFF. Measure the voltage from the fuel injector connector cavity 1 to ground (harness side) using a DMM. Is the voltage near the specified value? Connect a test lamp from the fuel injector electrical connector cavity 2 to B+ (harness side).
Does the test lamp flash while engine is cranking?This is GM factoy service info !
POP'S I replaced your ancient older then dirt self !!!
Noid lights are out pop's !
yes any 12vdc test light works, low current. unpowered, kid.
i use a scope, as it finds all causes.
Yea me too ! snap on verus !!!!!
I just thought what's this guy going to know about a noid light , an making one , come on now !
he thinks injection is simple, so wants simple answers. or wild guessing. i think he posted that it runs in test fuel for 3second, but does not inject, and fuses good, and scan codes show 12s cranking, so the next test is what. got 12vdc on both sides of the injector block resistor? on fire wall? key on? in not the resistor is bad.
as seen here
and in all cases, old cars, bad connections galore (per rust belt comments below, are you?)
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Camshaft sensor sends code to spit gas at times when the camshaft is at intake valve open
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Usually answered in minutes!
Do you hear the fuel pump running ? The FI relay powers the fuel pump also ,through the fuel pump relay !
Any chance you got it fixed if so what was the problem?
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